Do Enamels Really Airbrush...

[Antonov]

So my general idea is to brush paint interiors, and to airbrush exteriors. I like the ease and easy cleanup of brush-painting with acrylics, so I wouldn't give them up for that. But if enamels really do airbrush way better than acrylics, I might consider using them when I airbrush. So how much better are they to airbrush, really? Enough to justify buying two separate sets of paints?

Also, can you use Future over enamels?

[GGoheen]

The quick answer is yes.......to a large degree, enamels are easier to airbrush than most acrylics. That's not to say, however, that one cannot learn to airbrush acrylics with nearly as much ease as that with enamels. I guess my question is why, if you are already using acrylics, would you think or believe you should switch to enamels for exterior work? Again, with a little practice, many will tell you that they can airbrush just as easily with acrylics as that with enamels. And yes...you absolutely CAN use Future over enamels.

Greg

[Netz]

So my general idea is to brush paint interiors, and to airbrush exteriors.

Why??? it's far easier to airbrush your base colors than hand brush them, leave the brushes for detail work.

Curt

[Antonov]

I mostly do 1/72 jets, so I don't think it would be much easier to airbrush them than hand-brush them. Their cockpits aren't that big, so it's pretty close to all "detail work".

[denstore]

If anything, I prefer to airbrush acrylics, and would prefere to use them for everything, but enamels are better for brushpainting. And enamels are better for gloss colours.

So far, my best compromise has been Vallejo Acryllics. They airbrush superbly, and are decent to brush. And the range of colours available should satisfy most users. As a bonus, the eye drop style bottles are great.

[THX1138]

If anything, I prefer to airbrush acrylics, and would prefere to use them for everything, but enamels are better for brushpainting. And enamels are better for gloss colours.

So far, my best compromise has been Vallejo Acryllics. They airbrush superbly, and are decent to brush. And the range of colours available should satisfy most users. As a bonus, the eye drop style bottles are great.

I agree when using the ModelAir Vallejo for airbush, these are probably as good as using enamel without all the downsides of smell and toxicity.

Using the Vallejo ModelColor in your airbrush however is a pain in the ***. I tried thinning with everything from X-20a, MM thinner, regular water, still water, Windex. Some make it a little better, but it doesn't come close to ModelAir. The resulting coat is also easily damaged with scratches or it peels off entirely.

Luckily, with ModelAir and Tamiya color ranges, I'm covered with about 98% of my needs. For the last 2% I'll jump to enamel and simply hold my breath while airbrushing

[denstore]

I agree when using the ModelAir Vallejo for airbush, these are probably as good as using enamel without all the downsides of smell and toxicity.

Using the Vallejo ModelColor in your airbrush however is a pain in the ***. I tried thinning with everything from X-20a, MM thinner, regular water, still water, Windex. Some make it a little better, but it doesn't come close to ModelAir. The resulting coat is also easily damaged with scratches or it peels off entirely.

Luckily, with ModelAir and Tamiya color ranges, I'm covered with about 98% of my needs. For the last 2% I'll jump to enamel and simply hold my breath while airbrushing

I mostly airbrush Model Air, so in general I agree. But I havn't had that much problem airbrushing Colour either. One thing to know. Vallejo don't mix well with strong alcohol. I've used my own premix of 75% water (about 75ml), a few drops of retarder, a bit of Liquitex flow enhancer and top up with isopropanol.

Other people swear by the Vallejo airbrush cleaner.

On a sidenote, I wouldn't let Windex come near my airbrushes. It contains ammonia, which removes the crome. Sure, it works fine for a while, but when the chrome is gone, the airbrush will be a pig to clean.

Edited January 26, 2011 by denstore

[robtmelvin]

Coming from a ship modeling background I'm in the habit of using enamels and particularly White Ensign Colourcoats. They have a great range of highly accurate World War 2 military colors, both for ships and aircraft. I get most of mine from MidTennHobbies.com. Great customer service and prompt shipping. The only down side to this line has been that some of the more popular colors have been out of stock for quite some time. Apparently there has been a shortage of some of the pigments used, and the manufacturer does this line for White Ensign as a side line, so they manufacture these paints after the main runs are done. They airbrush great and brush paint well also. I've found that, depending on the color in question, you may need to thin just a bit for brushing.

[EX_Birdgunner]

I mostly airbrush Model Air, so in general I agree. But I havn't had that much problem airbrushing Colour either. One thing to know. Vallejo don't mix well with strong alcohol. I've used my own premix of 75% water (about 75ml), a few drops of retarder, a bit of Liquitex flow enhancer and top up with isopropanol.

Other people swear by the Vallejo airbrush cleaner.

On a sidenote, I wouldn't let Windex come near my airbrushes. It contains ammonia, which removes the crome. Sure, it works fine for a while, but when the chrome is gone, the airbrush will be a pig to clean.

This is a great topic thread. I too had the same questions regarding enamel paints. Mostly MM Enamels since they seem to have a wider range of colours I need.

Before my modelling hiatus I was using the old school testors enamel paints with rattle cans for main colours. Since getting back into the hobby with the ability to commit to an airbrush etc., I have been using acrylics, mostly Tamiya.

I recently got a gravity feed AB for X-Mas to complement my Badger 200, and bought one colour of the Vallejo ModelAir to try with it. I like the idea that it is ready to airbrush from the bottle but I am still curious if the paint will last longer than the Tamiya paints. If I like how the Vallejo performs I will probably stock up on more colours. Especially if it cuts down my painting session time since I do not have to mix.

Good to know about the windex removing the chrome. Although I used it rarely to clean I will stop using it altogether and stick with isopropanol. Thanks, denstor.

Cheers,

Denis

[piper19]

for me,

base or primer = lacquer

airbrush = acrylic (easy cleanup, no smell, fast dry)

handbrush = enamel (stays wet for some time, easier to touch up during painting, little or no thinning required, easier brush cleaning in white spirit)

washes = artist's oils

I've used all type over another type of paint, except the lacquer which cannot go over another without damage to the first layer. Acrylics and enamels spray both equally well.

[Phil marchese]

for me,

base or primer = lacquer

How thin a dusting? Lacquers'effect on plastic is why enamel model paints were invented.

Edited January 26, 2011 by Phil marchese

[thegoodsgt]

With experimentation and practice -- and a dash of skill -- you can airbrush practically any paint with great results. My advice is to try everything over time and find what you're most comfortable with.

[JackMan]

Good topic.

On a sidenote, I wouldn't let Windex come near my airbrushes. It contains ammonia, which removes the crome. Sure, it works fine for a while, but when the chrome is gone, the airbrush will be a pig to clean.

I didn't know about Windex doing that to chrome. I've read some modelers use it to thin their paints (eg Xtracrylics) as well as to clean their airbrushes. How do you clean it then? Thanks in advance.

[RichardL]

So far, my best compromise has been Vallejo Acryllics. They airbrush superbly, and are decent to brush.

Although Vallejo ModelAir acrylics are excellent (I have quite a few bottles), I still find Gunze acrylics superior as they are so easy to airbrush when thinned with just distilled water, adhere well to bare plastic, and give a durable finish. Plus, Gunze acrylics come in a wide range of RLM and FS colors. Unfortunately, you can't get Gunze in the states anymore.

[Stephen]

I've only ever used acrylics for airbrushing but I have had this debate with some of the guys from my club.With acrylics I always prime the kit which gives the paint something to hold on to. In the 5 years I've been using an airbrush I've successfully used the following paints

Vallejo Model Air ( I add a couple of drops of their thinner to the paint cup)

Vallejo Model Color(Thinned with water usually bottled mineral water although tap water is fine too along with a few drops of Windsor&Newton Acrylic retarder)

Xtracrylix (Use own thinner)

Lifecolor (Own thinner plus Windsor&Newton Acrylic retarder)

Tamiya (Own thinner)

Humbrol Acrylic (Xtracrylix thinner)

For cleaning I use Model Air airbrush cleaner as well as cellulose thinners

Stephen

[denstore]

Good topic.

I didn't know about Windex doing that to chrome. I've read some modelers use it to thin their paints (eg Xtracrylics) as well as to clean their airbrushes. How do you clean it then? Thanks in advance.

I use tap water or water/ipa mix for most cleaning.

[balls47]

Enamels are much easier to airbrush. They don't dry on the tip like acrylics do. I have a Paasche H dedicated to acrylics, almost exclusively for clear coats. This airbrush has seen a lot of Future. I do mostly 1/48 scale jets, so the #3 tip gets used a lot. I have a couple extras. Back to enamels. They can also be thinned with lacquer thinner, helping in the drying process and it seems to thin the paint better. It also "grabs" onto the plastic better than regular paint thinner. However, if you use lacquer thinner, make sure you airbrush it on over primer. If you paint it onto plastic, don't start with a thick, wet layer, because the lacquer thinner in hot and will distort plastic. And yes, you can use Future over enamels. Just make sure that the enamel paint is well cured, or your Future will end up cracking. I have never had that problem yet, but I let my enamel cure for several days to make sure. I don't want to put all of that time into a model and get all the way to putting on Future for decals and have the Future start to crack. Good Luck

Edited January 26, 2011 by balls47

[MarkW]

for me,

base or primer = lacquer

How thin a dusting? Lacquers'effect on plastic is why enamel model paints were invented.

When spraying rattle can lacquer based primer, this isn't an issue. The stuff trends to evaporate very quickly, and really isn't there in large enough amounts or long enough to really attack the plastic. Put in more useful terms, when using automotive spraybombs like Krylon or Duplicolor, I can spray on a decent covering coat (not dripping wet, mind you) with zero adverse effects. Usually one coat is sufficient.

Also, lacquers CAN be applied over other types of paint. Look at Model Master/Testor's Dull coat. Thin, misting layers allowed to dry well is the key.

[Phil marchese]

How thin a dusting? Lacquers'effect on plastic is why enamel model paints were invented.

When spraying rattle can lacquer based primer, this isn't an issue. The stuff trends to evaporate very quickly, and really isn't there in large enough amounts or long enough to really attack the plastic. Put in more useful terms, when using automotive spraybombs like Krylon or Duplicolor, I can spray on a decent covering coat (not dripping wet, mind you) with zero adverse effects. Usually one coat is sufficient.

Also, lacquers CAN be applied over other types of paint. Look at Model Master/Testor's Dull coat. Thin, misting layers allowed to dry well is the key.

Ok, Mark, Thanks. Though that was what you meant. Wanted to be sure I wasn't missing a big secret. Thanks again

Edited January 26, 2011 by Phil marchese

[Miccara]

Yes.

[balls47]

Yo Bro, Back at Ya. I have actually sprayed about anything and everything over anything and everything. The key is having the time to let things dry and cure over an extended time period, usually 3 or 4 times what you would normally wait. I'm not talking about patience, I'm talking about having the luxury of time. We all have to have patience. If we didn't, we would turn out nothing but messy, plastic blobs. I definitely agree with the good old L.E.A. (lacquer, enamel, thinner). Spray in that order. However, if you are not in a big hurry and let everything dry and cure for an EXTENDED time period, you can pretty much paint in any order as long as you think about what you are doing. At least, it works for me. I just want to add, that this is in no way taking away from any of the previous advice that you have received. I would take any advice that you have received. I learn a lot from ARC and ARC is where I go when I need advice, information, techniques, etc. It's just a great place with a lot of great people.