Jennings Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 I am looking forward to the kit as long as it is the best representation on the market and affordable. Both of which are HIGHLY subjective points. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KOG7777 Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Well, all of Eduard's other 1/48 WWII prop kits have been affordable. I have strong reason to expect the Spitfire won't break this trend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caiotfjr Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Well, all of Eduard's other 1/48 WWII prop kits have been affordable. I have strong reason to expect the Spitfire won't break this trend. Someone WILL complain about the "Royal Class" box being more expensive than a plain ICM kit... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
seawinder Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Ooooooooooookay boys and girls. How about we talk about the Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IXc for a little while? It would be really nice if they could make the elevators separate pieces so one could droop them without surgery or aftermarket. Pip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 It would be really nice if they could make the elevators separate pieces so one could droop them without surgery or aftermarket. If that were the worst thing they did, I'd be dancing on my rooftop... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robertson Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Both of which are HIGHLY subjective points. Don't see how better or not than the ICM can be so subjective... It isn't like the available Mk IX kits (or any mark for that matter) are causing anyone to swoon... Robertson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Don't see how better or not than the ICM can be so subjective... It isn't like the available Mk IX kits (or any mark for that matter) are causing anyone to swoon... He didn't say "better than" he said "the best representation". My best might be different from your best. If you don't believe it, just look back through any given discussion thread on this or any other forum :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KOG7777 Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Someone WILL complain about the "Royal Class" box being more expensive than a plain ICM kit... Well, yes. I was of course speaking of the standard releases, and not the fancy Limited Editions or Royal Class boxings. Though I do find those Limited Editions and Royal Class offerings to be a lot of fun and good value for the money, so I've picked up all of those as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caiotfjr Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 (edited) Well, yes. I was of course speaking of the standard releases, and not the fancy Limited Editions or Royal Class boxings. Though I do find those Limited Editions and Royal Class offerings to be a lot of fun and good value for the money, so I've picked up all of those as well. Eduard' standard releases are a little bit different than most other companies, as it usually includes PE and masking material (Profipack boxings), being more expensive than plain kits. Weekend editions are usually a little cheaper than the competition, but have just one marking option, making price comparisons a little bit difficult. Edited November 11, 2012 by caiotfjr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ruud Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 and if it is coming out in 1/48, then 1/72 will follow shortly. Eduard is good to us 1/72 folk :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlCZ Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Hmm. When i lookin´Eduard have very good price policy for home (Czech) Customers. An weekend edition cost 10USD, a Profipack edition 15-20USD. I think - when Eduard relase a Spit Mk. IX (probably IXe too !!!) he was a king of the Hill :) And when is eduard expensive in USA ? We have here a overpriced Hasegawa or Tamiya. (For example - a Zero from Tamiya 1/72 is 2x expensive as Hellcat Profipack (459 CZK vs. 359CZK) or Bf 109E Weekend (260CZK)... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Hmm. When i lookin´Eduard have very good price policy for home (Czech) Customers. An weekend edition cost 10USD, a Profipack edition 15-20USD. I think - when Eduard relase a Spit Mk. IX (probably IXe too !!!) he was a king of the Hill :) And when is eduard expensive in USA ? We have here a overpriced Hasegawa or Tamiya. (For example - a Zero from Tamiya 1/72 is 2x expensive as Hellcat Profipack (459 CZK vs. 359CZK) or Bf 109E Weekend (260CZK)... Hasegawa Tamiya and Esci are overpriced in the US also. The only inexpensive models here are Revell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 (edited) Hasegawa Tamiya and Esci are overpriced in the US also. The only inexpensive models here are Revell. Airfix is cheap in the US as well and frankly the Czech stuff is usually pretty reasonable (I buy a fair bit from Spruebrothers, so I get US pricing despite being in Canada). $25 for a weekend edition 1/48 WW2 warbird from Eduard is entirely reasonable considering what you get in the box, it's about the same price as a newer Airfix or Revell kit of a similar type. It only seems to be the far-eastern kits which are overpriced. Edited November 14, 2012 by mawz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Eduard' standard releases are a little bit different than most other companies, as it usually includes PE and masking material (Profipack boxings), being more expensive than plain kits. Weekend editions are usually a little cheaper than the competition, but have just one marking option, making price comparisons a little bit difficult. The nice thing about the weekend editions are that the decals are excellent, as all Eduard decals are. A pleasant change from the crap that comes in so many Tamiya, Hasegawa or TrumpyBoss kits (I still don't understand why modern Tamiya decals are so much worse than the ones they were making 30 years ago. I just finished an original boxing of Tamiya's A-10, from 1980-ish and the decals were reasonably decent, while the sheet in the 1/72 F4U-1d I did a couple months ago were almost unusable, being horribly thick and yet falling apart if I even waved solvaset in their direction, ditto the decals from the 1/48 P-51D I did over the summer) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caiotfjr Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 The nice thing about the weekend editions are that the decals are excellent, as all Eduard decals are. A pleasant change from the crap that comes in so many Tamiya, Hasegawa or TrumpyBoss kits (I still don't understand why modern Tamiya decals are so much worse than the ones they were making 30 years ago. I just finished an original boxing of Tamiya's A-10, from 1980-ish and the decals were reasonably decent, while the sheet in the 1/72 F4U-1d I did a couple months ago were almost unusable, being horribly thick and yet falling apart if I even waved solvaset in their direction, ditto the decals from the 1/48 P-51D I did over the summer) Don't get me wrong: I love Eduard kits! Weekends are usually cheaper than competition, while Profipacks or limited eds are usually cheaper of kits of the same quality with added AM parts. Onto the Japanese subjects, I think we cannot treat japanese decals with Microscale (or Solvaset) system. I had the same opinion as you, until someone pointed me to Gunze's Marks Setter and Mark Softer. Of course, I still prefer a Cartograph sheet, but Tamiya's decal can be worked nicelly using Japanese decal solvents Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Otto Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Don't get me wrong: I love Eduard kits! Weekends are usually cheaper than competition, while Profipacks or limited eds are usually cheaper of kits of the same quality with added AM parts. Onto the Japanese subjects, I think we cannot treat japanese decals with Microscale (or Solvaset) system. I had the same opinion as you, until someone pointed me to Gunze's Marks Setter and Mark Softer. Of course, I still prefer a Cartograph sheet, but Tamiya's decal can be worked nicelly using Japanese decal solvents I use the Micro system on the japanese decals with no problem. I get them to lay down just fine. It just takes longer and multiple applications. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caiotfjr Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 I use the Micro system on the japanese decals with no problem. I get them to lay down just fine. It just takes longer and multiple applications. And I use Gunze's solvents with all decals. It's just a bit different (but not too much) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 (edited) Don't get me wrong: I love Eduard kits! Weekends are usually cheaper than competition, while Profipacks or limited eds are usually cheaper of kits of the same quality with added AM parts. Onto the Japanese subjects, I think we cannot treat japanese decals with Microscale (or Solvaset) system. I had the same opinion as you, until someone pointed me to Gunze's Marks Setter and Mark Softer. Of course, I still prefer a Cartograph sheet, but Tamiya's decal can be worked nicelly using Japanese decal solvents It's only the Tamiya decals that have the issues with Solvaset (and it's odd, usually it's either thick decals or fragile ones, not both), and then only the newer ones, old Tamiya decals from the early 80's work fine with Solvaset. I've few issues with Hasegawa or TrumpyBoss decals and solvaset, they just have their own issues (Hasegawa's are usually badly designed, either in terms of errors like their early Canadian roundels or poor QC on the art like many of their 2-part Finnish Swastika's where the cross underneath is larger than the swastika that goes on top and of course cream instead of white, TrumpyBoss decals are very much like pre-Hornby Airfix, just low quality printing, poor opaqueness and occasional adhesion issues). Edited November 14, 2012 by mawz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randypandy831 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 I've had better results with hasegawa decals then tamiya. japanese make beautiful plastic but crappy decals. and eduard profi pack kits are well worth the $$$. i mean c'mon now. $40 bucks for their 1/48 109E with PE,mask,beautiful decals,and lovely instructions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 We're still waiting for the Eduard 1/72 MiG-21s almost 2 years later... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
seawinder Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 I've had better results with hasegawa decals then tamiya. japanese make beautiful plastic but crappy decals. I used Tamiya's decals for the national insignia on the F-16 I built recently: they worked (with Micro stuff) and looked perfectly fine. Pip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vince14 Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Wait a minute - people actually use the decals that come with the kit? How odd.... Vince Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 (edited) Wait a minute - people actually use the decals that come with the kit? How odd.... :monkeydance:/>/> Vince Well, it's a nice idea the first (or second) time you build a kit. Especially if the markings are interesting (which they often are for Airfix or Revell kits). And then there's Eduard Profi-Packs, which have what amounts to a very nice aftermarket sheet in the box rather than the usual 2-3 common subjects. Edited December 6, 2012 by mawz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Chladek Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 I've used recent Tamiya kit decals before. Sometimes it might take 2 or 3 applications of Microsol to get them to lay down and eliminate all silvering issues (I typically spray a gloss coat down before decal application no matter what), but they do seem to lay down (I've never had one shatter). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mawz Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) I've used recent Tamiya kit decals before. Sometimes it might take 2 or 3 applications of Microsol to get them to lay down and eliminate all silvering issues (I typically spray a gloss coat down before decal application no matter what), but they do seem to lay down (I've never had one shatter). Note I am using Walther's Solvaset, which is somewhat hotter than Microsol/set. It usually works very well for me for decals other than Tamiya, and it gets some decals to work which Microsol fails with. I also always glosscote. Edited December 7, 2012 by mawz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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