seawinder

I'd say yes for AK Real Colors, and be careful for Tamiya: make sure the Tamiya is thoroughly cured.

A lot depends on the specific brands you're using as well as whether or not the layers beneath have completely cured, but in general, you should not expect adverse behavior applying (aqueous) acrylics like Alclad Aqua Gloss over lacquers/enamels. The danger comes when it's the opposite — lacquers and/or acrylic lacquers over aqueous acrylics. You didn't mention what brand of flat lacquer you used, but it was obviously too hot for the Aqua Gloss beneath it, especially if it went down pretty wet, which would usually be the case when it's applied directly from a spray can. There are a

1. I've found you can generally re-apply Alclad over such spots with satisfactory results. You may want to sand the area with some very fine paper to eliminate the step formed by the torn layer. If the step still shows more than you can live with after re-painting, it may be best to take the whole thing down to bare plastic using a thinner that will dissolve the Alclad without attacking the styrene. Gunze Mr. Color thinner should work; DON'T use hardware store lacquer thinner. 2. The lacquer flat coat has attacked and partially dissolved at least the Aqua Gloss and possibly the AK

I'd definitely go with RLM 66, which is a dark gray, somewhat darker than Gunship Gray FS. 36118 but not so far off that you couldn't use it as a substitute. Actually, RLM 66 was used in bomber cockpits starting quite early in the war.

Thanks for the into Br-St. I was able to locate and order a Kasl F/A-18E seat and hopefully will have it in hand by November (!).

Am I right in thinking the front and rear seats are different in an F/A-18F? I'm doing an E.

Thanks for the response, Don. Are there any noticeable differences I should be aware of between the F-14D and F/A-18E seats?

Does anybody have a recommendation for the best aftermarket SJU-17 in 1/48 for an F/A-18E? I'd prefer resin with harness molded on. Thanks!

Yes, that's true from what I've read. However, the question was about the clear parts AM provided in their various Mustang kits: apparently they were all the same since they all included the Malcolm hood as an option, and AM (mistakenly?) showed it in the box art for the Mk. Ia boxing.

Pretty sure that's correct. I've got the P-51 boxing. It provides the Malcolm hood, which I believe is only called for on the Mustang Mk. Ia boxing, so it's almost certain the same clear sprue was used for all the boxings. It's a shame they never provided parts for an open canopy.

Thank you, Brian.

Which Kinetic kits have the fin shape corrected? I've got the F/A-18C boxing, KA48031. Also, what would people recommend for a resin SJU-5/6? I've got a Black Box cockpit set that includes an SJU-5A and will probably go with that unless there are clearly better options.

In the thread you started at Hyperscale, someone stated 36307 to be a 1-to-1 mix of 35237 (Medium Gray) and 36622 (Camouflage Gray). I tried mixing some Model Master paints in that ratio and arrived at something a bit too dark and way too blue when compared to the 36307 chip in my 595B book. I added more 36622 and got something close to 36473 -- lighter than 36307, but still too blue. I then looked around in 595B for other chips that are close to 36307. The one that leaps out is 36440: the hue is just about dead on, but it's very slightly lighter. I think if you added just a tiny b

I was able to download all but the top photo you posted. I pulled them into PhotoShop and ran Auto Color. The third photo down, #43 parked, changed the least, so I'm speculating it's the best rendition of the color of the three. Eyeballing it, the color is extremely close to the bottle of Model Master Aggressor Gray 36251 I'm still hoarding. If it were my project, I'd use that shade, whether Model Master or MRP. It's also apparently produced by LifeColor and AKAN.

Now that the Nats have happened, is there any update on the situation?