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seawinder

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About seawinder

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    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 06/03/1947

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    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln, MA, USA
  • Interests
    Music (conducting, cello, bass guitar), sailing, model building

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  1. Maybe this will be helpful (courtesy of Jim Sullivan):
  2. Two thoughts. 1. Use slightly darker shades of Alclad, like Duraluminum and Dark Aluminum, and/or mix in small amounts of Steel for other darker shades. 2. Use a panel wash of Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (Black). Lay it on fairly heavy, then use a Q-tip dipped in mineral spirits to bring it down. If you do it right, you can leave a thin patina of black over the whole surface, and you can vary it from panel to panel by wiping off more or less.
  3. I just held up an F/A-18 I built and painted with MRP 36375 against the chip in my FS595B book: They two colors are virtually identical, but the MRP might be just an iota lighter. You really have to strain to see any difference. In any case, going by the chip, MRP is definitely not too dark.
  4. It just appears to me that Chris is busy with a lot of other things besides Obsureco. Hope I'm wrong.
  5. I seriously wouldn't hold my breath. BTW, your signature takes up a lot of thread space, and it doesn't appear that your project list has changed since 2017.
  6. 36118 is a good call for the later ANA version of Neutral Gray, which was matched, IIRC, to RAF Dark Sea Grey or Extra Dark Sea Grey (can't remember which). However, it's a good deal darker than Neutral Gray 43. FWIW, Mr. Color does a good rendition of NG 43: it's their jar no. 13.
  7. I don't think that's true. Looking at the photo above, the national insignia is clearly a lighter color than the codes on the tail. I believe there are/were policies for step-up/step-down colors depending on the surface colors underneath the markings. If your decal is disappearing into the surrounding surface color, than it need to be either a step up (lighter) or down (darker).
  8. Are you sure you used the right insignia decal? It probably wants to be the lightest one on the sheet.
  9. From what I can see, the difference between the Alley Cat early- and late-style sets is the upper wing cannon bulges. The early ones have the wider bulges designed for two cannon, while the late ones have the narrow bulges that became more or less standard because the two cannon-per-wing configuration was rarely used. If I were doing the plane in your profile, I'd go with early style and full span.
  10. The Hasegawa 1/48 Shoki isn't new, (originally 1995 according to ScaleMates), but it's still a pretty nice kit. The only other one I know of in that scale is the Otaki/Arii. IMHO the Hasegawa is better by quite a bit.
  11. I only mentioned Tamiya above because IMHO their F-16s are significantly better than Hasegawa's and, like many of their other kits, are an engineering/building experience not to be missed. OTOH, if you've got the Hasegawa kits in your stash, they're certainly worth building.
  12. That looks cool, Gabor. Any chance of a standard early Yak-9 at some point? Or is somebody else already doing that?
  13. Pretty sure the metal area on the F-15 is titanium.
  14. If you do the same google search(es) I just did, you'll probably come to the same conclusion as I did: You may be able to find two or three of those colors in spray cans, but most of them are only produced in jar paint form. There is Tamiya AS-11 (Medium Sea Grey). Both AS-9 and AS-30 are labeled RAF Dark Green; others may know which is more accurate. Mr. Color does good representations of Dark Sea Grey, Barley Grey and Light Aircraft Grey, but not in spray cans. Might be worth considering investing in an inexpensive airbrush?
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