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seawinder

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About seawinder

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    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 06/03/1947

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    Male
  • Location
    Lincoln, MA, USA
  • Interests
    Music (conducting, cello, bass guitar), sailing, model building

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  1. Pretty sure the metal area on the F-15 is titanium.
  2. If you do the same google search(es) I just did, you'll probably come to the same conclusion as I did: You may be able to find two or three of those colors in spray cans, but most of them are only produced in jar paint form. There is Tamiya AS-11 (Medium Sea Grey). Both AS-9 and AS-30 are labeled RAF Dark Green; others may know which is more accurate. Mr. Color does good representations of Dark Sea Grey, Barley Grey and Light Aircraft Grey, but not in spray cans. Might be worth considering investing in an inexpensive airbrush?
  3. So, we're talking about the radiator inside the housing under the wing, yes? I've got a Tamiya P-51 I built some years ago on my work table and am trying to look into the intake without picking up and turning over the model. Ah yes, if I get my head down to the edge of the table and sight directly aft under the propeller, I can barely see that there's no radiator in there. If I build another one and decide that this is unsatisfactory (not likely), I'll maybe cut a piece of sheet styrene to fit inside the housing and paint it a dark steel color so it hides the view into the yawning void. I'm not trying to defend Eduard for failing to provide the radiator, I just fail to see that it's such a big deal. But then, I don't tend to get too upset about inaccuracies in wheel wells either because I don't ordinarily display my models upside down.
  4. That's what I've got (although I purchased it within the past year), and, as I said, the decals look fine. Which of course doesn't help your situation.
  5. Hmm. I wonder if you got one from a bad batch. The sheet in my kit is definitely on blue paper, but both the grays and blacks are solid. I will say decals 86 and 87 (crew names) appear lighter than the two above them, but I'm pretty sure it's simply because the stroke width of the outlines is smaller.
  6. I frankly don't see what's particularly wrong with the Revell kit decal sheet, which includes markings for one DS plane. I bought an Afterburner sheet, but I'm planning on doing the DS markings with the kit I'm currently working on.
  7. I posted this link - https://www.ultracast.ca/1-48-P-51-Mustang-s/114.htm to the other P-51 thread you started. Ultracast produces a good number of different tread styles for Mustang tires. What your photos show could be the cross tread, but they could also be what Ultracast identifies as square tread. I mentioned octagonal or oval in my post to the other thread, but on closer inspection the tread elements don't line up along the radials the way the square tread ones do.
  8. It's a little hard to tell for sure, but I'd say either octagonal tread or oval tread. You can see samples in 1/48 scale from Ultracast here: https://www.ultracast.ca/1-48-P-51-Mustang-s/114.htm Do bear in mind that the same plane probably had different tires at different times. There are also clear photos of planes with two different tires at the same time.
  9. There are some good photos of the cockpits of a museum restored SNJ here: http://www.maam.org/aircraft/snj.html From the photos and from what I've read, the interior was mainly Interior Green, but the frame members above the cockpit were bare metal.
  10. Mstor (or anyone else), how does one order one of these? I'm sorry to sound insistent, but nobody, including Dave, seems willing to post or send an answer. I emailed Dave several days ago, but have heard nothing back. Thanks!
  11. Hi Dave. I emailed you inquiring how to go about ordering an F/A-18 HUD. Can you post that information? Thanks!
  12. While I doubt that you'll find the exact font used on the plane, the closest thing I'm finding on my computer is Calista MT Bold italic. The letter shapes and weights are quite close, but you'd probably have to bring it into an app that would allow you do adjust the character width to make it a bit more condensed. Clark.pdf
  13. Assuming that RLM 82 refers to the bright green and RLM 83 to the darker olive green, the standard late war scheme for the Ar 234 was 81/82. For the Me 262, both 81/82 and 81/83 were used. I don't know which scheme was more common, but Messerschmitt is known to have used the 81/83 scheme on other late war aircraft including the Bf 109 K and the Me 163.
  14. Yes, I also invested in a resin seat (Quickboost), which happily fits nicely, but I used the kit ejection handle since the Quickboost item was broken. Agreed on the IP decals. I didn't find the stenciling instructions too bad, and a lot of the stencil decals are virtually invisible so alignment doesn't seem to make that big a difference. An awful lot of them, though. I counted 188 for the airframe and another 198 for the two R-27s/pylons and the four Eduard Brassin R-73s/pylons.
  15. Thanks all for the info and photos. ijozic, I'm going to take your lead and do my model without the antennas, largely because I'm finding the tiny GWH photo-etch assembly beyond my ability to achieve a satisfactory result. Really don't understand why they couldn't have done it as a single injection molded piece (Academy did on theirs).
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