seawinder

Thank you, Ikar, for posting those photos. At the risk of hijacking the thread, they may well clear up some indecision I've been having about the white used in the Gull Gray/White scheme: Specs called for Insignia White FS 17875, which is a decidedly warm, creamy shade. My concern was that it would clash with the purer white found in virtually all decals. Looking at the side view that Ikar posted reveals a pretty obvious difference between the underside white and the white in the star-and-bar. I'm guessing the latter is in fact a decal printed with "pure" white. The rudder also appears to be a

Hmm. 34151 is Interior Green, nothing like the photos posted here and elsewhere -- much more yellow in it. To me the color looks a lot closer to Euro Green 34092, which has much more blue content.

I'd start with 34092 and doctor it with a bit of 34102 and perhaps black.

The Hasegawa instructions can be viewed here with some difficulty: https://www-super--hobby-com.translate.goog/products/A-7E-Corsair-II-Colourful-Cag-Birds.html?_x_tr_sl=pl&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc As you'll see, Hasegawa doesn't give any Tamiya mix for any of the colors including the dark green.

I'm pretty sure Insignia White is FS 17875. Mr. Color does it -- C316 -- it's a very warm white. I've checked all the Mr. Color versions of Light Gull Gray. The best match to my FS chip is C11 (semigloss). There is no 34106 in my FS595B book. 34108 looks pretty good.

Kits World has (?) the following general instructions at their web page, although I couldn't find it myself. This is copied from another forum. Only general application instructions, no specific placement info: Instructions / Recommendations Treat these decals as you would any other silk screen printed water-slide decal when it comes to surface preparation. 1. Ensure the surfaces are glossy and smooth 2. It is not necessary to use any decal setting agents, in fact we advise against it. 3. Should you require additional adhesive, we recommend using diluted PVA (White) g

You really only need the 3/4 inch wide tape -- you can use an Xacto knife and a steel straightedge to cut whatever widths of tape you want. The type of paint you choose will at least partially depend on whether you're going to be hair- or air-brushing. Some of the recent acrylic lacquer lines like MRP are pretty much airbrush only. I use a lot of Gunze's Mr. Color, which is an acrylic lacquer that has to be thinned for airbrushing. It's not the greatest for hair brushing, but if thinned somewhat with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (their proprietary thinner with an added retarder), you

I'd echo Griffin's recommendation of the Eduard Dr.I: a lovely kit and fun build if you don't mind dealing with the streaked green paint job needed for many examples.

Having never owned a WNW kit, I'd still say apples and oranges. I've built a number of Eduard WW1 subjects. A lot of them came relatively early in the company's run with 1/48, so they're nothing like as refined as recent releases, and, like all Eduard stuff I've ever handled, they're plenty fiddly.

Regarding the fuselage profile, there is nothing in Youyuso's red and blue lines that would remotely affect my decision to build one kit or another, certainly including the Eduard. I'm sorry I got sucked into what I consider your fanatical obsession with minutia. It just isn't why I build models. Cheers.

Every online drawing I can find shows the fuselage tapering within the wing chord. FWIW I have no intention of trashing the Eduard -3 I'm currently working on.

I wonder if the sliding canopies will be separate and therefore able to be posed open. How is it on the P-51H?

I'm looking at the Print Scale sheet, which has markings for two USN UH-34s. Which 1/72 kit would people recommend, and what modifications would need to be made for a Seabat? Thanks! Pip

Another option would be to use a somewhat lighter color (like the 36720 I mentioned above) and go a little easier on the washes.

Hi Chriss. Any chance you can post a pic or two? I'm at that point in the Eduard build and would really like to understand what you're referring to. Thanks! Pip