Acrylic Paint Recommendations

[dsahling]

So I'm presently on a quest so to speak to find some new paints as an alternative to Mr. Color (Fumes are very strong). I've tried Model Master Acrylics and like these. I'm just finishing a build using Vallejo Model Air, I wasn't too thrilled with these as they are water based and since I live at altitude they behave/dry too quickly, to be fair I havent tried their thinner, does anyone know if it helps improve the paint flow/clogging problems? What about Mr. Hobby, and if these are good where can I get or order them in the US?

Dan

[Marcel111]

Hello Dan,

I use Tamiya and Gunze acrylics and am very pleased with the results. Not sure were to get them in the US though.

Marcel

[RichardL]

You can get Tamiya from practically any local hobby shop. You can order Gunze acrylics from here in the US: Gunze Acrylics

Vallejo new airbrush thinner will definitely improve paint flow. Never had any clogging issues with Tamiya, Vallejo Model Air, or Gunze acrylics.

[nerdling]

I personally use a combination of Tamiya, Vallejo, as well as a few older Pollyscale paints. Vallejo does work better with some of their retarder. I used to use the Model Master Acryl stuff, but found it scrated way to easy and clogged my airbrush. Never had an issue with Tamiya or Vallejo clogging. Now with the Vallejo you will want to use a primer before hand. I've been using regular old Krylon primer.

[balls47]

Yessir, I have always used MM enamels for my color coats. I tried some acrylic paints, but got tired of the "tip dry." Of the acrylic paints that I tried, MM Acryl was by far the worst. Maybe they work well "at altitude" like you do. If you can get MM Acryl paints to work, you should be able to get anything to work. As far as acrylic paints, the only acrylics that I use on a regular basis are Future and other clear coats for decaling purposes. I do use some Tamiya paints, but mostly clear colors for aircraft lights. I am gonna try the Mr. Color paints. I have heard several of my friends swear by the stuff. I am sure that the strong fumes you talk about are due to the fact that Mr. Color is a lacquer. I really like the way that lacquer works, so I should like Mr. Color. You might wanna consider giving MM enamels a try. They do have some odor, but nothing like lacquers. Anyway, good luck!!!

[Mike C]

If you've been using Mr Color, then the most logical acrylic alternative is Aqueous Hobby Color, which is made by the same mob as Mr Color (Gunze/GSI). All the numbering should be exactly the same (e.g. H308 for FS36375, H307 for FS36320, etc.). Aqueous Hobby is fantastic to spray. Thin with either Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner, or alcohol. Also inter-mixable with Tamiya acrylic.

[marvin20]

The Aqueous Hobby Color line, does have a smell as well, it is similar to the smell of Tamiya Acrylics. As for the numbers being the same between Aqueous and Mr. Color, if I'm not mistaken it doesn't match up until the numbers exceed 300. I prefer to use their self-leveling thinner they have, the paint sprays extremely well with it, and it flows great. If you can wait on getting your paints 6 - 8 weeks after ordering, the best place to get them are from Seal Model in Hong Kong. The Mr. Color paints are $1.60 per bottle and $1.50 per bottle for the Mr. Hobby line. Shipping costs can be rather high, depending on the size of the order. Here is a link to the Gunze Line of paints at Seal Model:

http://www.sealmodel.com/products.php?category_id=61&filter=%26fl1%3D6&pn_pr=1

HTH,

QT

[Joel_W]

My primary paint is Tamiya Acrylics. I do use Model Master enamels from time to time.

As for the Tamiya Acrylics, they don't have a lot of FS and ANA colors, so you end up mixing your own a lot of the time. I use to use Tamiya X-20A thinner with their acrylic paints. Works well, but I've found that their Yellow cap Lacquer Thinner works even better, and gives you a smoother finish. Tamiya paints can be found in just about any LHS. I order most of my models and supplies online, and 9 times out of 10 I order from Sprue Brothers. You just can' beat their selection, and service.

Joel

Edited December 9, 2014 by Joel_W

[beingthehero]

I really love AKAN's acrylics. I've never noticed any particular strong smells from them, and they spray on very well. Only need a drop or two of water to thin them. Plus, they're matched to the actual aircraft and vehicles. On the other hand, the line mostly focuses on Russian military stuff, and not so much Western.

[Rex]

The AKAN "Line" doesn't focus so much on just the Russian.

http://www.hobbycolours.com/index.php?cPath=132_105

You just have to go abroad to get more than just the Russian colors.

[plasticWerks_JL]

FWIW, i've been reading threads here and other sites for acrylic painting tips for a while, and it's really whatever works best for you, but you have to experiment. I've also been messing around with spraying acrylics a bit, and have "developed" a technique that has worked well for me so far. I posted this on my Hornet build, but I'll share here for anyone who may be interested:

Tamiya sprays and adheres very well, but I didn't like having to mix basic colors, and MM acrylics have a better selection and FS colors, but in my experience (and others, it seems) won't stick well under even the best conditions. After playing around with these for a while, I started using Tamiya as a primer/base under the MM, and it's worked wonders.

After cleaning the plastic, I'll thin some light or dark grey Tamiya with X-20a, and lay down two or three light coats, and I'll use Tamiya dark grey or black for preshading as well. Then I use the MM acrylic, thinned with 91% ISO alcohol and usually a couple drops of Future (which may not really be necessary). I'll spray several light coats of the MM paint until I'm happy with the finish. If it's pebbly, i'll usually buff with a clean, soft cloth or tissue to smooth it out between layers (the Tamiya seems to lay down rough much of the time for me). I've used Tamiya tape, blue painters tape (both straight off the roll, no "de-tacking") and blu-tack over the dried MM paint without pulling anything up so far, so I'm using this technique more than not now. I will, however use Tamiya black and white for final coats, since the MM (especially the white) doesn't cover very well. Trying to strip the paint after the finished coat requires a good amount of scrubbing with alcohol or windex once it's dried, I've found.

Closest I can figure, the Tamiya paint sticks really well to cleaned plastic, and the ISO in the MM paint "melts" into the Tamiya base coat and helps it adhere. Figuring this out has made painting a lot easier for me, so I'd recommend experimenting with it if you're so inclined.

EDIT: Also, the MM thinner may help slightly with spraying, but I haven't noticed much of a difference between that and paint thinned with a bit of ISO alcohol. I usually add the couple drops of Future to aid in spraying. Like all acrylics, you have to clean the airbrush tip off every once in a while, no matter what.

-JL

Edited December 9, 2014 by plasticWerks_JL

[Bob Beary]

Along those lines, you can also thin Tamiya and MM Acryl with just Future. It helps with tip dry and with the paint adhering. Think of it as spraying tinted Future. It will help with laying down a smooth coat.

Bob

[Ruud]

Gunze for me! And the future + MM acrylics is a good idea. Works pretty good for me (not as nice as Gunze, but well enough).

[Joel_W]

PlasticWerks_JL,

Tamiya already makes a great gray primer/sealer in either a rattle can or bottle for air brushing. While their line of paints does stick to plastic they're not primers, and primer is not gray colored paint. Primers main function is to stick to the surface and then be an excellent surface for the colored paints to adhere to. Primer/Sealer's other function is that of a sealer. Sealers cover discolorations with no bleed through, while light colors need many coats to cover dissimilar surfaces or prevent stains from showing through.

Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based, while Model Master acrylics are water based. That's why both thin with Pledge/Future, but you really shouldn't thin MM acrylics with A-20A as it's about 50% denatured Alcohol. And never try to mix the two together as you end up with suspended MM paint particles. Tamiya has a Yellow cap very mild for plastics lacquer thinner that breaks down the paint particles much better then their X-20A. I've never tried it with Model Master Acrylics, but Lacquer Thinner can thin all types of paint.

Joel

[plasticWerks_JL]

PlasticWerks_JL,

Tamiya already makes a great gray primer/sealer in either a rattle can or bottle for air brushing. While their line of paints does stick to plastic they're not primers, and primer is not gray colored paint. Primers main function is to stick to the surface and then be an excellent surface for the colored paints to adhere to. Primer/Sealer's other function is that of a sealer. Sealers cover discolorations with no bleed through, while light colors need many coats to cover dissimilar surfaces or prevent stains from showing through.

Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based, while Model Master acrylics are water based. That's why both thin with Pledge/Future, but you really shouldn't thin MM acrylics with A-20A as it's about 50% denatured Alcohol. And never try to mix the two together as you end up with suspended MM paint particles. Tamiya has a Yellow cap very mild for plastics lacquer thinner that breaks down the paint particles much better then their X-20A. I've never tried it with Model Master Acrylics, but Lacquer Thinner can thin all types of paint.

Joel

Thanks for the additional info, Joel (and everyone else, as well)

I've seen the primer in the bottle before, but haven't tried it yet. I've avoided trying the spray cans and yellow-cap lacquer thinner method, as I'm trying to cut down on fumes as much as possible. If the lacquer thinner from Tamiya is "mild", does it cut down on the smell?

I am familiar with primer/paint differences, and perhaps I should've labeled what I do "undercoating", "base coating" or something similar, to avoid confusion. I'm certainly going to play around with a higher ratio of Future in my mix to see if I can get it to work for me. Trial and error (and error, and error, and error, and more trial... ), you know!

-JL

[Joel_W]

The Tamiya Yellow cap thinner has a lacquer smell, but not even close to the store brands in a paint dept. For the little bit I use to thin Tamiya Acrylics, it's really not a issue.

I clean my air brush and associated parts with Lacquer thinner so I have no issues of dried paint. That's when the smell does get strong. I do use a homemade paint spray booth, and that's where I do most of my heavy cleaning.

Joel

Edited December 10, 2014 by Joel_W

[Crazy Snap Captain]

Lifecolor have an amazing range of FS colours and are great to work with once you get used to them.

[Mike C]

Lifecolor have an amazing range of FS colours and are great to work with once you get used to them.

Mate, I have to disagree with you on LifeColor being "great to work with" there. Especially when sprayed with airbrush. However, I do agree that they have an amazing range of colours.

[Crazy Snap Captain]

Mike, 12 months ago I would have agreed with you but with a bit of persistence (and a heavy dose of cursing) and practice I've managed to master them. True, they are no where as easy as Tamiya and Gunze, but you do eventually get used to them.