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About Rex

  • Rank
    accidental CAG
  • Birthday 02/01/1957

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  • Location
    near Nashville, TN
  • Interests
    USN aircraft, mostly the F-4/A-4 era,,,,,,love all the Gray/White times

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  1. Progress,,,,,,,,,,,,who'da thunk that one day, Prop wash would come in it's own bottle?
  2. That is what happens to me too. I get built past the cockpit,,,,,and realize that I didn't take photos,,,,and then think I didn't "do the group build thing right"
  3. haha, I knew that this thread would evolve Now we have a place to send newbies (they weren't noobs back then) to get us a bucket of prop wash. (and all the things that others will probably type in, lol)
  4. The same thing happened to me when the forum change-over happened. I have emails saying that I am fine,,,,,,,but, anytime I log in, the page at the to of the forum says I am under review. It has been months, so I gave up, and use it as "read-only", if I even bother to go and check anymore. I've got too many models to build, and a forum to migrate as a "read only" for my collection,,,,,I just don't have time to fight with it.
  5. thought?, builds?,,,,,sentences? funny Bill
  6. bungees,,,,,,thank you I was just about to do that thing where I walk around trying to think of something, and bumping into things from the distraction.
  7. riffraff has it right. There is a certain point that you want number 3 wire at as sharp an angle to number 4 as you can get it. I forget what they are called now (been a longggg time), but there are large "clip" like deals under each wire, that holds the wire up for the tail hook to catch it. They are in between the fairlead sheeves, so, the sheeves are anything to worry about,,,,,,just those guiding clips. You don't want number 3 to catch on that as it is retracted.
  8. And it will be cool once Kim fills in the missing parts for the F-4B.
  9. There is another tip in the photos posted above. Try to decide if any part that you think might be painted along with the rest of the paint scheme, but really shouldn't be. Notice the wingtip floats were done separately, that is because they could either block other areas of the model when painted in place, or sometimes a part might create currents that you won't want to have to deal with while painting the main body and wings of your aircraft. Paint things like that separate from the model, and add them later when you add the other tiny bits. You can still paint them i
  10. ahh, cool I will order my usual "double of this, single of that" thing when the VF-73 and VF-173 sheet gets in, then.
  11. How did you do that? "the new ETA is somewhere around Nov 24" I ask only because I was waiting for them to be in stock before ordering, I have other sheets that I intend to have him ship in the same package, to save him some postage costs.
  12. Thanks for clarifying, Gerry. I will look for something different in the parts locker. Micro drilling would sure be fun, though, eh?
  13. So, for modeling purposes, this would just be a slot in the Phoenix pallet, with some representation of the 90 holes, is that right? oops, wrong direction,,,,a slice of plastic card glued on, with the 90 holes In my scale (1/72), I would just rob three of the photo etched chaff buckets from a Hasegawa kit, and surface glue them onto the Phoenix pallet, and let the PE thickness stand in for the "raised rectangle" that stands out from the pallet.
  14. Well, it does give me a chance to point out something often missed on F-4B nose discussions. Note that the late F-4B in the photos has the same "IR fairing* " as the F-4N, and NOT the same as the early F-4B actual IR fairing. ( * wasn't an IR fairing by then for about a decade or so) You can see that by looking at early and late F-4B shots of the nose, and noticing the "front end size, length and shape." Like everyone else, I have those parts labeled as "F-4N fairings" in my spares box, but, they were used on late F-4B before there was a Bee-Lin
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