Joel_W Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Janissary, I usually use filters after I apply a camo paint scheme to both tone it down, as well as adding some dust/dirt for non-Naval aircraft. I also like the effect of the blotchy air brushing, as it already has added some realistic weathering to the paint. Not sure what that mill work is for, but you did a incredible job dong it. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 Thank you. Yes, quite a bit of repainting, post shading, and weathering will be necessary. This build is tiring me our lately (so want to finish it soon), but we'll see... The steel block is going to be the stand for the in-flight pose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mstor Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 On 4/10/2018 at 9:37 AM, Janissary said: More work... Milled, drilled, reamed, counter-sank, sanded, sand blasted: If I may ask, what is this??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 (edited) . Edited May 14, 2018 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 (edited) Hi, that is going to be the stand for the inflight pose. Btw, I was wrong when I said the block was sand blasted at the time. Now it is. A few update pics: Masking with silly putty seems easy, but can be time consuming: Edited May 14, 2018 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 The first set of experimentation went ok, but the colors.... I tried to fix the colors, but just didn't like how it was going. I decided to start over. So I scrubbed the whole think with an old dishwashing sponge to iron out any rough patches. With the flat paint and masking, there can be small but still visible steps especially along the color edges. This gentle sanding also brings a little bit of sheen which I like: And back to square one: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 Next, I reapplied the camo colors, this time slightly adjusting the mid and blue gray colors. Also started masking off different panels with parafilm. I am now planning to weather this base camo. There is a lot of surface to cover, so I expect some finger strain with the airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainObvious Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 The paint looks good. But oh my, your scribing and riveting skills are mad! They look so neat and uniform. You deserve a jaw drop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 Janissary, A most impressive 2nd effort that looks flawless. I do have one question concerning the ridge between the layers you felt after the 1st paint effort. You used Silly putty (which I also use), and it gives you a nice feathered edge, which can be adjusted by the thickness of the worm. I've gone way to thin once or twice and the demarcation line was more like a fine line, but I never got that raised edge. I'm just wondering why you got one, as your modeling and painting skills are excellent. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 (edited) Thank you Captain, Joel. I can take no credit for the scribing or riveting; they were already on the kit. But, per my usual practice, I go over them all too deepen them to a consistent depth. It takes a lot of time and is a major PIA, but is necessary for me to stay motivated later on. Joel, the raised edge with the paint is difficult to explain. It is actually not normally visible, you could not get your nail caught on it, you could not feel it under your finger tips. But, when you apply a uniform color on top as the new base primer (in my case it was metallic black), you can still faintly see the edge between the color. It may even have to do with the different sheens of the bordering camo colors. I wanted those all gone so that after the thin primer, I could proceed with a new coat of camo colors without getting annoyed by what I could see underneath. So, my guess is that the dish sponge just brings all the colors to a similar sheen, which helps alleviate the visible difference under the primer. Hope this helps. Edited May 14, 2018 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 (edited) Janissary, Makes sense. I'm wondering if you're just seeing the two colors bleed through and therefore you can see a very faint demarcation line. I would think that it would vanish with the new primer coat. Joel Edited May 14, 2018 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skyhawk174 Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 Wow Janissary that looks superb. I really have to get one of these kits. Somehow the Su 30 looks more aggressive than the Su 27UB? Maybe it is the hump. Also I like the idea on your stand. I know it is too late now but you could have bought something like this from a store that supplies machine shops. That block is called a 1-2-3 block because it is 1"x2"x3". Or maybe your block is different dimensions then I am an idiot for suggesting it. I still like it and I may try something like that in the future. Looking forward to the posts where you get some deals on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KursadA Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 An amazing build, even by Janissary's already very lofty standards. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 Thank you all. Joel, you might be right about the difference in the colors, it might be just the color bleeding. 52 minutes ago, skyhawk174 said: Also I like the idea on your stand. I know it is too late now but you could have bought something like this from a store that supplies machine shops. That block is called a 1-2-3 block because it is 1"x2"x3". Or maybe your block is different dimensions then I am an idiot for suggesting it. I still like it and I may try something like that in the future. In fact, my inspiration was just that; the 1-2-3 block! I was at a machine shop looking around and found a few of those. I asked the foreman if I could take it, he said no. So I just found a steel block laying there and machined it. Surprisingly, the tactile sensation of both the drilling and reaming were very therapeutic (luckily, I had taken a machine shop course a few years ago so they let me use the machines). I may have a few more inflight displays planned for the future. Thank you Kursad. I hope it will all come together with your decals. Right now, it is too clean, I am planning to weather it. So I don't know how it will turn up. I hope I can push through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Your Flanker looks amazing Janissary! really nice paint job! please don't post it anywhere close to mine cause it will put it to shame!! bravo! stellar work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) Thank you. Admittedly, the colors still look off to me (blue gray too blue, medium gray somewhat weird) but I'll just plow through. I am now trying to give it a tired look as the first step toward weathering. A lot of post-shading with the lighter and darker tones of the base colors, applied with the airbrush (diffuser off). It takes a lot of time, but, it is relaxing at least: I went over the base colors multiple times, still trying to figure out the right balance. Then, I will try some spot weathering, and dirt and grime, or whatever strokes me in the moment. Edited May 18, 2018 by Janissary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seaknight Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 Very nice paint job Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 Thank you, I am now studying various pics to see how I can weather this further. This is where I get skittish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 this is getting better and better Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 16 hours ago, Janissary said: Thank you, I am now studying various pics to see how I can weather this further. This is where I get skittish. Janissary, I'm always on the conservative side when it comes to weathering. It's easy to continue to add layers to increase the weathering effects, but it's a lot harder to remove one or more. So like I said, go easy,and go slow. I even will take a break between steps, or put it down for a day or two as it always looks different the next day when everything as dried and cured. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfgun33 Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 The camo looks fantastic!! What air pressure do you use when you were doing that first step of weathering. I'm trying to get better at using my airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Impressive job as any of your other builds mate! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 30, 2018 Author Share Posted May 30, 2018 Thank you all. I am continually thinking about how to weather it without going overboard. WG, my a/b pressure reads around 11-14 psi before the a/b trigger is depressed. It goes down to maybe 10psi or so when depressed. I probably have not touched my pressure setting for years. I use the same pressure for priming the model, camo painting and shading. The only thing I tend to do with shading is to thin the paint more than usual, take the crown cap off, get closer to the model, and depress and pull the trigger with more control. Also, since the paint is already quite thin, I don't care about the pattern I apply or the mistakes like spilling over to the wrong camo colors. Shading is very forgiving I'd say. Just a few more updates. A lot of time is spent masking and painting. I'm nearing the gloss coat stages. Just a few more steps to go before I can do that. More work will be done on the gun panels after the gloss and matte coats, this is just a base metallic panel at this time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brian P: Fightertown Decals Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Beautiful work. Really enjoy seeing your evolution of the shading on the jet. With all these new Flanker kits coming out, I'm finding myself more and more drawn to these jets and working them into my building plans. Starting a Kinetic SU-33 this weekend! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Thank you Brian. Yes, I too have a grown an admiration for the Flankers. Only the two-seaters though 😛 That cobra neck look is very cool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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