Jump to content

Brian P: Fightertown Decals

ARC Sponsors
  • Content Count

    4,170
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Brian P: Fightertown Decals

  • Rank
    Hot chicks dig guys who build model airplanes!

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.Fightertowndecals.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Land of fermented grape juice

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. For the pilot one, you can just use the stock A. Change the top right instrument cluster of you want. I did decals for it on the Fightertown data sheet. Use the PH RIO parts. Boom, done.
  2. For the 2002 VF-143 jets, they were pre-Sparrowhawk HUD. So it had the standard A coaming. The B pilot panel had a different instrument cluster on the upper right. But using the A panel is good enough if you’re happy with it. The RIO panel has the Lantirn PTID display snd left side hand controller. had coaming as the A. Up to you as far as how detailed you want to get. Phase Hangar makes the parts. You could cut out the PTID from a D and add it to the A panel. You could put a square piece of plastic over the kit A TID Fishbowl and and sides. You could use a Eduard piece - just depends
  3. FYI, and once again, for Fightertown Decals, we print our colors to match Navy FS colors. We specify to the printer to use the FS colors from the correct book to print match. Matching them to a specific brand of paint can vary. And on occasion we have sent a paint sample to the printer to match that color. 30140 is the worse color I’ve ever dealt with. Different paint makers vary from a light tan to a dark brown. And none that I have seen actually match the FS color. The closest to the real color is MrColor C526 (but it doesn’t claim to match 30140). And that is darker than you’d exp
  4. It’s easier to go from D to B, than A to B. If you go A to D, you’ll need to get the full Phase Hangar B conversion. And engines and GE engine doors. And wheels. Plus the stuff no box has. Start with the D. The D gives you engine doors, exhausts and front fan. Tails, ECM on gear door, boat tail and above intakes (but not the 4 others), wheels (post 1994), BOL rails, all the bomb racks, Lantirn and GPS dome. You’ll need an A cockpit sprue or aftermarket cockpit. And the TCS and the 4 under intake ECM bumps - which currently aren’t in any Tamiya box. If you’re doing a Late B with HUD,
  5. Cool project. On the wheels, Tamiya hasn’t made the ‘standard’ A/B/D wheel. Only the early pre-1980 one and the late post 1994 one. So if you want that correct, you’ll need AM. Eduard, DEF, Halberd all make great versions of it and I highly recommend them. ResKit, True Details, Wheeliant are all lesser quality or have size issues. For TCS, get Phase Hangar. It’s the only correct sized one. Quickboost also makes a nice one.
  6. Get the Kazan set for the F-14A. It’s made to fit Hasegawa and the castings are exquisite. As far as the spine areas, you aren’t going to find differences in the A/B/D. But the A amd the B/D used different motors so those would not be the same. brian. https://www.kazanmodeldynamics.com/wing_glove_article.html#/
  7. Happy to help and that it’s an easy change. Your build is so cool and the old A wheels are just funky looking haha. There’s a lot of ‘off’ info about the wheels out there. And all the AM makers label their wheels as A type specific and doesn’t help out. can’t wait to see more.
  8. Looks excellent!! Love the paint snd weathering. one note though, why use the early Tamiya A wheels? The kit ‘D’ wheels are actually correct for this jet. The early A tires never made it to the B. There is a lot of bad info out there about the wheel hubs. And they weren’t type specific. - early A only (because the B/D didn’t exist) 1972-late 70s. Out of the fleet by 1981/1982. Blk 100 fresh from Grumman were the last to have them in 1978/1979. -standard A/B/D. Late 70s-early 2000s - Late A/B/D. Mid 90s-2006. First I’ve seen it was 1994. All models. Was interchang
  9. All I can offer is that the sheets we printed had the 35237 printed in FS color from the book. Different paints match differently. And lots of the low viz jets didn’t have full stenciling and data. Sheet we made covered all the markings actually applied to the jets FYI. In 1/32 it isn’t hard to do a set of data and markings on a silhouette or circuit machine and then paint them. I’ve seen a few people doing that. And even though I made the decals, I’ll be doing that on my 1/32 F-14A build for things like NAVY, turbine lines, intakes, dat boxes and Rescue arrows. cheers
  10. So if I want to order 10 of the LAU-7 rails, can you just put them in 1 blister pack and save all the packaging material? I’d just toss it all anyways 🙂 brian
  11. I haven’t tried to match all the artwork but there’s nothing that would not fit on the HB kit if it fits Revell and Kinetic. I’m planning on using the sheet for Puff snd one of the Camo jets. And maybe another 196 jet. There shouldn’t be any issues or size changes needed. brian
  12. I looked and searched and can’t find it. I may have put it on ARC fb but can’t find that either. Fb search is really a POS. Can’t find my own stuff... I did in Dec 23-Jan5. I can email you the pictures...send me your email Fightertowndecals@yahoo.com
  13. Not it doesn’t. Hasegawa panel is much shorter and shaped different. I just did it. But it required scratching a new panel and deleting a few pieces. I really hate trying to post pictures here - it won’t let me. i have a post on Fightertown Decals Facebook page brian
×
×
  • Create New...