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HelloPig,

I've been following this build for quite some time now, and I must say that you are doing an immaculate Job!! BTW if your looking for a new airbrush I'd like to recommend an Iwata HP-C Gravity feed. Very nice paint atomization, which produces very fine lines, just my two cents.

Cheers,

GAntonio :cheers:

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BTW, what airbrush do you have, that preshading looks awesome, would like to try some of that on my Four 1/32 Phantoms, but I'm afraid my Paasche H wouldn't be able to do that, or maybe it's just me.

What ratio of paint/ thinner do you use.

Cheers :worship:

Hey Frank,

I started the tires with Floquil grimy black, with a touch of rust. Once that dryed I sprayed the tread area with a dusting of concrete..

Thats it!

Regards,

Pig

Andy G

Hey Andy,

Well, I've gor a Badger 100 side feed, with the fine needle and tip. I use it for all of my oil based paint work. I use a Paashe H just for spraying Future. Thinking about a new airbrush..What do you guys recommend for nice, fine lines and detail work?

As far as the thinning goes, I start out about 50:50...then mess with it from there. Seems like atmospherics play a huge role. Temp. & humidity...I'll dink with the thinning, air Px, and brush settings until I'm happy with it on that day. My cardinal rule is never point your airbrush at anything unless you are completely satisfied with the way it is spraying. If I just cant get it right, I'll quit for the day and have a beer.

I learnded this one the hard way. Over..and over... ;)

Regards!

Pig

Hey Pig.

I have the Badger 150 and the 100 G, I guess that's the same one you have. I bought them just last year, never seemed to get the hang of them.

Granted, I'm not the worlds most patient man, maybe I didn't give it enough time to get used to them.

I guess I'm just not used to the pull back push down trigger, I suppose it takes a little getting used to. It's not like the Paasche H just press down and paint, which I've been using for Five years now since I got back into the hobby.

Maybe one of these days I'll take a few hours with the 100 G, use different brands paints, enamels and acrylics, PSI's, airbrush settings, a beer or Three and see how things go.

BTW what brand paint do you usually use and any pointers on the use of the 100.

Cheers :crying:

Andy G

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Hello Gents!

Made a little progresson this beast...Here are a few looks at the wheel assemblies.

Now, ordinarily, I hate rubber wheels that come in most kits, but these are pretty nice. I paint mine, however. To get the paint to stick, you just need to take your time, and follow the right dance steps.

These are washed and flat coated, but not yet dry-brushed...

Pig

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Here's a look at the tread section. This part of the tires were painted with a dusting of Floquil Concrete. This is important in that this model will be on a simulated concrete pad..I'll use the same concrete paint for the basecoat of that hardstand...Continuing the color up from the ramp onto the tires will tie the model visually to the base in the same way that armor modelers will dust the ground color on a figures boots.

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More wheels..Dry brushed and done.

Anytime you paint vinyl tires, you have got to be really careful when you handle them..the finish is more fragile than painted styrene. I wear gloves if I have to touch them/hold them. I set them on wax paper only, or leave them impaled on sticks like you see here...

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Nice work on the nozzles Pete! :thumbsup:

What colour are you using as a base colour on them?

Keep those photos coming!

Jason

Hi Jason,

I start with ModelMaster Jet Exhaust (not a metalizer) and manipulate the color by adding various browns / greys / black to get what I need...

Regards,

Pig

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Pig, got a question when reading about the weathering....good or bad, maybe we can have a forum on that subject,usually we are weathering the weapon load...but mostly it is " brand new".......it looks like we are all going to what i call " the Spanish school", where visual effects are given to all the piece ?

it looks great, but is it real ? most of the time we are cheating with the colours or light effects.......any comments ? :thumbsup:

pat.....waiting to paint its su....

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Hey Pete here is a photo of one of the GBU's on a A-10 here at Bagram for your files look at the rust on thebomb body thought you might could use this  Erick

Good question patrick!

Take a look at this picture that Erick passed along of this GBU-12. Look how nast & weathered it is. In the case of the GBU's, the "meat " of the weapon is the Mk 82 bomb case. These things are pretty safe without the explosive train in place, and as a result get man-handled, bumped, scratched, moved with heavy equipment, etc..they also rust.

The fin and guidance assemblies might come out of a crate, and look pretty new when bolted on, as you suggest. But take a look even at this picture, and see how the "new" parts on this one are beat-up as well.

I think it's safe to say that the air to air missiles wouldn't/ shouldn't look so weathered; at least thats my opinion from my own personal experience.

Having said all that, I wll still use washes to deepen the shadows, and dry brushing to emphasize the high points..on every part of the kit..how much to do and when to stop is very subjective! :(

...And besides, I can't speak Spanish!

Regards,

Pig

Edited by Pete "Pig" Fleischmann
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