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CF104

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About CF104

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    Starfighter Nut
  • Birthday 03/31/1966

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  • Gender
    Male
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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
  • Interests
    R/C flying, music and recording. P/C sims. Licensed Aircraft Mechanic currently working on the B757-200, Airbus A300/A310 and have 10+ years Herk experience. Also worked on the B727, B737, CT-114, CT-133 and CF-104.

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  1. Sounds like you have a personal issue with Danny that's colouring your replies. Whatever that may be, I have had nothing but good dealings with Danny and find his publications very well done and the F-104 update set for the Hasegawa kit was a great addition. Now, getting back to the Kinetic kit, I started building my first one today and so far the fit has been pretty good. The best by far of any Kinetic kit I've built in the past. I'm more concerned with the windscreen fit and will report back when I get the chance to dry fit it. Cheers, John
  2. Let me look through my references. I actually used to own a set of real CF-104 main wheels and nose wheel as well as a set of the rear RWR fairings along with a few other CF-104 bits. This is going back about 22 years. Wish I had the space to keep this stuff. Here's a comparison of the CF-104 RWR antennas from Kinetic, DACO and Belcher Bits. Cheers, John
  3. Didn't say you had to. You might just want to ask if anyone has the DACO set and are not using the antennas. I know I'll have a couple sets to let go eventually. Or just buy sprue C directly from DACO. Cheers, John
  4. The conversation is about the RWR's in the Kinetic kit compared to what's out there. If you have the proper references they're not hard to scratchbuild at all. The trouble is finding those proper references. DACO has the references and made some very nice RWR's for the CF-104. The Belcher Bits ones look like a clone of the white metal offerings from Hasegawa and are not as good or accurate as the DACO ones. If you're looking for accurate, the DACO ones win. Cheers, John
  5. And the Kinetic stabilizer scales out better than both the Hasegawa and DACO ones. Unfortunately you still need the DACO RWR antennas for doing the CF-104. Cheers, Johon
  6. You're correct that the Hasegawa horizontal stabilizer is too narrow in span. Conversely the Daco one is slightly over in span but takes care of the overdone divots. Cheers, John
  7. Actually the DACO wings correct the chord length of the Hasegawa kit as well as taking care of all those divots. The Hasegawa wings were slightly short in chord. Cheers, John
  8. All of the exterior surfaces have the same very smooth finish. I wouldn't say glossy but they are nice and smooth. Cheers, John
  9. They may do the same job but the oleo-pneumatic strut and the liquid spring operate on 2 different design principles. An oleo-pneumatic strut uses gaseous nitrogen to inflate it to the proper static extension and provide the spring and then a hydraulic fluid for the compression/extension damping. The liquid spring is entirely serviced with a compressible liquid, silicone based in case of the F-104. It's a complicated beast in which the design allows it to use the compressible fluid as both a spring and a damper. The liquid spring for aviation use has been around since the late 40's and was patented by Dowty so it's not a Lockheed trademark. Cheers, John
  10. Hi Luigi, The liquid spring is a Lockheed oddity. It would normally be known as the oleo on other aircraft but due to the way it functions it's not really an oleo. It is located on the main landing gear beam and acts as the shock for the main gear. I've attached 2 photos showing it's location on both the Kinetic and Hasegawa kits. Cheers, John
  11. Hey All, Just received my 2 Kinetic F-104G kits from Luckymodel. First impressions are good and I would definitely say it's an improvement over the Hasegawa Starfighter. River counter alert! If you don't like subject matter experts giving some valid observations you can stop reading right here. The following is just a short list of my observations in comparing it to the Hasegawa kit and also the DACO update set. Over all shape. This is where the Kinetic offering really beats out Hasegawa. The Kinetic fuselage length is correct as opposed to the Hasegawa which is a scale 7.2" too short. The horizontal Stabilizer is bang on the money whereas the Hase is short on span and the DACO is a bit too long in span. The vertical stabilizer is also correct and this is where the Hase was good too. Couldn't get an idea if the wingspan is correct as I'll check this during the build. Panel lines and rivets. You'll be pleased with the toned down rivets on this kit even though I feel they could have done away with more of them on the aft fuselage. Anyway it's a way more realistic representation than the Hasegawa kit. The panel lines themselves appear crisp and consistent and should take a wash well. There are a couple asymmetric panel issues and placement problems. The most noticeable to me is the lack of the external power door on the r/h lower fuselage below the trailing edge flap. There are also a few extra panels where there should be none at all. The bleed air heat exchanger exhaust is positioned incorrectly and the louvers are not well defined. This is where the Hasegawa one is better. Landing gear. The nose gear and well looks to be pretty nice and I feel it's better than the Hasegawa one. The main gear has a shape issue to my eye. The Hasegawa kit has the correct main gear shape but is missing the jacking and tie down points. The Kinetic gear has the jacking and tie down points. The Kinetic gear also has the correct "G" version liquid spring whereas the Hasegawa one only has the A/B/C/D/F/CF/J/DJ liquid spring. I like how Kinetic has the aft door struts molded to the gear. The Hasegawa kit was a pain to get these struts properly installed. I'm not a fan of the kit wheels. Too squashed and flat and this is where I feel the Hasegawa kit wheels are better. There is also an error with the instructions regarding the forward main gear doors. Step 21 shows an option view of having the doors closed or partially open. With the gear down, these doors were always partially open due to the geometry of the landing gear mechanisms. You'll never see one on it's gear with these doors fully closed. EDIT... I thought the nose wheel looked a bit small and decided to measure it. It comes out to a scale 1.2" (16.8" vs 18" diameter tire) too small in diameter. Both Hasegawa and DACO nose wheels are correct diameter. The main tires are the correct diameter but the wheel hubs are too small. Hasegawa has these right. Cockpit and canopy. The Kinetic pit is generally better than the Hasegawa pit. The instrument panel and side consoles are nicely done. The only shortfall I see is that the control stick grip and throttle are way too big. The ejection seats are okay. There are the 2 versions of the MB seat and the C2 seat looks good as well although it does have a seam up through the back pan that will need filling. There is also a PE fret for the seat belts and a few other details on the kit. Aftermarket seats would really make the cockpit pop. The canopy is both a hit and miss for me. I love the fact that Kinetic included the canopy demist tubes but the mounting of these tubes to the canopy is via recesses in the canopy that are visible from the outside. This is especially evident on the aft frame and will look kind of crappy when completed. The clear moldings aren't up to the the Kinetic Gold standard and are of about the same or less quality than the Hasegawa kit. EDIT... Just noticed that Kinetic missed the forward inverted V support for the clear cover on the electronics compartment hatch. This is included in the Hasegawa kit. External tanks, stores and pylons. This kit is equipped for air-to-air only. No mud moving, photo taking or artificial suns. Looks like 2 AIM-9B missiles along with the catamaran/Aero 3B launcher and 2 versions of wingtip launchers. They all look okay and are much better than the ones you don't get in the Hasegawa boxing's. The external tanks look good and are rivet free although they are a bit too pointy and the fins are lacking the distinctive flat angular cross-sections. The tip tank eyebrow vanes are quite thick compared to the Hasegawa tanks and look to be at too flat of an angle. The tanks scale out ever so slightly long and smaller in diameter but so do the Hasegawa tanks. The DACO underwing tanks also scale out slightly long but have the correct diameter and better detailing. The wing pylons look good but are only set up for the external tanks with no provisions for stores shackles. One thing missing is the center-line pylon which Hasegawa included in their boxing's. This one strikes me as odd as there is this nicely done recess on the lower fuselage to fit the pylon but it gets covered up with a PE plate. Miscellaneous parts, decals. CF-104 ARWR (Airborne Radar Warning Receiver) antennas. This was a system based on the US AN/APRĀ­25/26 RHAW which had 2 antennas mounted on the aft fuselage and one under the radome. The parts included in the kit, B72/B73/B26 and D1/D2 for the upcoming CF-104 boxing are completely wrong. It's hard to describe how wrong they are but if you're going to build a CF-104 from this kit that is equipped with the ARWR antennas, the DACO update set is your only bet. The PE fret contains cockpit parts as well as the link ejector, wing tip plates, pylon cover plate and AOA vanes. All of them look good except for the AOA vanes which aren't the correct shape and look too big. The Decals are a weak point of this kit but the Hasegawa boxing's never had extensive decals either. The kit decals have a few prominent stencils but you'll need an aftermarket set to get the other 95%. I'm sure I've missed a few other points but in the end, even with its shortcomings, I'd say that this kit is better than the Hasegawa kit. My opinion could change once I start building it solely based on parts fit. Cheers, John
  12. How did you prep the photo-etch parts before priming? I use isopropyl alcohol(IPA) to clean the PE and depending on the size of the part I'll scuff it with 400 grit sandpaper followed by another cleaning with IPA. Don't paint the PE before bending. It will crack the paint. Try to attach the PE to the kit you are building before painting if practical. Painted PE doesn't attach too well due to any adhesion problems with the paint. It's best to attach bare PE to clean unpainted styrene. Cheers, John
  13. This is part of the OBOGS fix. It's called the Automatic Backup Oxygen System (ABOS). Looks like 2 high pressure oxygen bottles were installed behind the ejection seat in the 2012/13 time frame. These look like fairly high capacity cylinders so they probably operate more as a backup reserve to the OBOGS and there's more than likely enough oxygen to get through a mission. Cheers, John
  14. I didn't notice the link for the J but I see it now. If you search LuckyModel there is no sign of the F-104J there so this must be an old link. This link must have been put up before LM decided to make it only for the Japanese market. This is probably why it shows discontinued as Raymond stated it was not going to be sold on the LM site. I take it by his comments that there is no current plan for an International release of the J. This will most likely be influenced by the Japanese sales of the kit. I'm looking forward to the 2 kits I've ordered. Further orders will be determined by what I see in the kit. Cheers, John
  15. I never noticed a pre-order up on LuckyModel for the F-104J. Only the F-104G. I know Raymond said it was only for the Japanese market and would not be available on LM. Did you happen to have a link for the F-104J on LM? Cheers, John
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