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Everything posted by CrowTRobot

  1. Thank you. If I built one of these kits again I'd skip the Aires cockpit and just install a nice resin ejection seat in the kit cockpit. The Aires fit was lousy, and you really can't see much it once the kit is assembled. While dry fitting the leading and trailing control surfaces on the wing I noticed that if I posed them in the drooped position there were very few gaps, but when I posed them in the raised position there were lots of tiny gaps that had to be filled. It was worse on the right wing because it was a bit warped. I straightened it by dunking in hot water and bending against the warp, but I still had gaps to deal with. Also, I think I'd skip the "J" and build an "E" next time because there appear to be more decal choices for it including some Mig killers. There were no Mig kills made by the "J" that I could dig up. For either model I highly recommend the Wolfpack resin speed brake. It was easy to install, and it looks great. Most photos of parked F-8s show the speed brake at least partially open due to the hydraulic pressure bleeding off and allowing the brake to fall under its own weight.
  2. Doh! Sorry about that. Perhaps a moderator will boot this into the display case forum.
  3. This was a pretty tough build for a Hasegawa kit. I opted to build it with the wing down and droops & ailerons up since the whopping majority of photos of parked F-8s show it in that configuration, but it wasn't easy getting rid of all the gaps that presented. Then there was the infamous problem of posing the canopy open. It's clear Hasegawa intended for the wing to be up and the canopy to be down, but I just had to be contrary. To make matter worse, the kit decals shattered when they hit the water. I managed to salvage them by spraying the sheet with Future, but that made them tend to curl up when they came off the backing sheet. In the end I used some of them, but I supplemented heavily from aftermarket AeroMaster (thanks Jeem!) and Furball decals. I also added an Aires resin cockpit & the Wolfpack resin speed brake (which is most excellent, BTW). An Air Master brass pitot tube rounds out the aftermarket stuff. F-8J_1 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_2 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_3 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_4 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_5 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_6 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_7 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_8 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_9 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_10 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_11 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_12 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_13 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr F-8J_14 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr
  4. I was planning to use the kit-supplied decals with my Hasegawa F-8J, but they shattered like glass when they hit the water. I ordered a replacement sheet from Hobbico nearly 3 months ago, but I've received nothing and I really don't expect to given their financial situation. I'm looking for one of the following sheets so I can finish my model (listed in order of preference): Aeromaster Colourful Crusaders III 48-445 Hasegawa decals from kit HSGS0226 Aeromaster Colourful Crusaders I 48-403 Aeromaster Colourful Crusaders IV 48-450
  5. I just finished this Encore/Monogram 1/48 F-102 Delta Dagger. I started it way back in 2014, but I shelved it while working on my U.S.S. Enterprise Refit. I picked it up again last October, and boy am I glad to be done with it. The fit was poor, and there were nasty seams to be filled on the underside of the wing and the starboard side of the vertical stabilizer. There were also some rough molding artifacts where Encore had grafted the Case XX wingtips onto the molds resulting in ridges that had to be sanded and pits that had to be filled. Some of the Encore "enhancements" & details seemed redundant or gratuitous to me, so I omitted them for the sake of simplicity. Overall, this kit was more complicated than some of the short-run kits I've built. I rescribed all the panels lines, drilled out the opaque formation lights on the wings and fuselage, and filled them clear styrene. I replace the kit pitot tube with a turned-brass tube from Master Model. I also added landing & taxi lights to the gear doors using MV lenses. The decals are a mix from the kit and SuperScale, and they represent an aircraft from the 57th FIS, Keflavik, Iceland, ca. 1970. The paints are from Testor's Model Master and Alclad. Thanks to the ever-diminishing selection and ever-decreasing quality this is probably the last time I use the Model Master paints. IMG_7349 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7352 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7355 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7359 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7315 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7326 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7365 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7369 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7370 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7374 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7378 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr IMG_7381 by Marshall Blythe, on Flickr
  6. Kitsworld has a good selection of racy decals for P-51 and P-47 subjects.
  7. Yay! I've wanted a Caravan in 1/48 for a very long time. I've logged about 4,000 hours in the 1/1 bird. I hope they offer the cargo variant.
  8. That was a fascinating story. Thanks for posting it.
  9. I normally spray a coat of Future over Alclad with no ill effects. I've never tried Aqua Gloss, but when in doubt it's best to experiment on some scrap plastic so you can tell exactly what the effect would be without jeopardizing the finish on your model.
  10. If you end up going with a Sandy loadout try to find a 150gal resin fuel tank for the starboard stub. The Tamiya kit provides a 300gal tank for this station, but 150gal tanks were more commonly used there. Two Mikes made a 150gal tank for the A-4, but the same tank was used on the A-1. I used it on this build:
  11. Thanks! I didn't post anything in-progress- only the finished model.
  12. I finished one of these kits early last year. Take a look at this posting to see my comments.
  13. They're nice decals- which is especially good considering the lack of options for the FJ-1.
  14. I don't think that would work in this case because the wire I have isn't bare copper: it's enamel-coated. It's the kind of wire used in coil/transformer windings, and the enamel coating provides electrical insulation, and it's tough to remove.
  15. That's a nice find! I have spools of enameled copper wire in various gauges, but the colors range from red to green. I HATE painting this stuff because it flakes off so easily during handling. The pre-colored black and silver wire would make short work of adding brake lines. Do you know if they had this in 30 gauge?
  16. It does indeed. I used this technique on my Tamiya A-1J. I put drips 'n drabs of thinned Burnt Umber oil paint on the centerline drop tank and belly and blew them back with my airbrush. This was done over a cured coat of Future, so mistakes were easy to cleanup.
  17. I normally spray flat white (either Tamiya White Primer or Floquil Reefer White) and polish it with MicroMesh to the desired sheen. You can get super-glossy finishes this way without using a single drop of glossy clear coat.
  18. In addition to the other good advice here I'd recommend polishing your GSB paint job with MicroMesh. I usually start with 6000 grit and work my way up to 12000. This'll take care of any imperfections/bits of dust stuck in the finish.
  19. Thanks! I used BluTac, and it was the first time I ever tried it. It worked very well and it was so easy.
  20. Thanks! I painted the tires Floquil Grimy Black (really a very dark grey), and when it was dry I painted the treads with very, very thin Light Ghost Gray built up in layers. The drop tank was more fun. First, I coated it with Future to protect the base coat of Camo Gray paint. Then, I took an old paint brush with short, stiff bristles and dipped it in thinned mixes of Burnt Umber and Payne's Gray artist oils. I then flicked the bristles of the brush with my finger near the surface of the tank to produce oil spatters. Some of these I'd leave alone, others I'd wipe in the direction of airflow/gravity. Still others I'd blow around using air from an empty airbrush. I'd do this repeatedly, building up the effect in layers. I also used dot filters with un-thinned oil paint, wiping most of it off and generally smearing it around as reference photos indicated. It was pretty easy because if you don't like what you've done you can always remove it with some mineral spirits and a paper towel. I used the same technique for the stains on the belly although they're not as easy to see once the tank was attached.
  21. I just finshed the fantastic Tamyia A-1J kit, and it's easily one of the best kits I've ever built. The engineering and detail are just superb. I was inspired to build this after reading several Vietnam-era air combat diaries written by veteran jet pilots. These pilots went out of their way to praise the "Sandy" and "Jolly" crews that rescued so many downed aircrews under extremely hostile conditions. My model is finished in the markings of Capt. George Marrett who flew such missions out of Nakhon Phanom, Thailand. It's configured with a typical Sandy SAR mission loadout. I used Model Master enamels for the SEA camo paint job and artists oils and Promodeller washes for the weathering. Those are kit decals, and although they looked thick at first they went on perfectly. I added the following enhancements to an already great kit: Substituted a 150 gal. drop tank (Two Mike's resin) for the kit's 300 gal. tank mounted on the starboard stub. The 150 gal. tank was more commonly used on this station. Sandy loadouts often carried M47 white phosphorus ("Willy Pete") bombs, but Tamiya didn't include any so I scratchbuilt a pair. Scratchbuilt the Yankee Extractor rocket and mounted it beside the canopy actuator behind the pilot's headrest. Added the VHF-FM whip antenna to the upper-left side of the fuselage. Added the wire antenna using EZ-line. Added static wicks to trailing edges of control surfaces. Added brake lines to main gear struts. Added Eduard photoetch. I used Model Master enamels for the SEA camo paint job and artists oils and Promodeller washes for the weathering. While building this kit I read "Cheating Death" by George Marrett. It was the first time I ever read a book written by the pilot of the actual aircraft that I was modeling! I highly recommend it to anyone wanting to learn more about the U.S.A.F. Skyraiders and the men who flew them in Vietnam. "That others may live"
  22. While good technical & pictorial references are essential don't overlook the combat diaries written by pilots who flew the Skyraider. They may not contain many pictures, but they add a whole new dimension & level of understanding to your build. I'm currently building a Tamiya Sandy and reading "Cheating Death" by George J. Marrett (the pilot of A-1J Sock It To 'Em). Another good book is "My Secret War" by Richard S. Drury. Reading books like these while I build makes me appreciate and respect the aircraft and then men that flew them.
  23. Nice Alclad shine, and what a great gift!
  24. I got the True Details 1/48 resin seats for the T-33 thinking that I could use them in this kit, but when I placed them in the cockpit I found they were much too small. They appear to be somewhere around 1/60 scale or smaller. I compared them with some 1/48 pilot figures I have collected from various kits, and they looked like kiddie seats in comparison. At least the kit seats are properly sized even if they lack details.
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