Jabba29

It would be good to see some Alconbury aircraft.

I like this idea, also if some of the EC-130(RR) of the 193 S.O.G of the Pennsylvannia ANG of that time period could be done, that would be very nice

And me.

Thanks for that. I shall hopefully have my two finished this weekend.

Where can I find the correct details of the antenna fit of the Polish MiG-29? I have tried the web site references on the decal instruction sheet but it does not go there.

Berna Decals do a sheet (Sepecat Jaguar Part 2) that has both a 3 and 4 tone scheme for french Jags. It says that the 3 tone one was used in the Gulf war, whilst the 4 tone one was used at Red Flag, but I do know that the 4 tone one was also used in the Gulf war as this is the one that I am making.

I got one of the transport kits whilst on holiday in Krakow last week, very nice indeed with one of 14 helicopters to choose from.

I know that to be the case as I have recently bought two kits, but I am after one of the other options on the sheet that being the North Dakota one. So that is why I asked if it could possibly be reduced to 1/72nd.

Will this sheet also be scaled down into 1/72nd?

Thanks for the help. I do have another question, which is does the 18A+ version have the double chaff buckets or just the single ones under the intakes fitted?

Thanks for the help and it is a Marine aircraft that I am building. I do have an Academy F/A-18A that I recently bought on the cheap so I will use the tails from this, and look at the instructions for the lumps and bumps that need removing. I have also found that Dr Pepper Resin make a Litening II pod, but as you have said that the difference are not that noticeable I will stick with what I have got. I will look out for the GPS lump from pictures that I can find.

I am making a model of a F/A-18+ Hornet from VMFA-142 in 1/72, using the Academy F/A-18C kit. Not being that hot on the differences between these versions of the aircraft is it possible for someone to tell the main external difference. Also I have a picture of the aircraft that I am making, which shows it carrying a Litening II(AT) FLIR pod. Are there any major difference between this pod and a Litening MkIII pod which I do have? If the difference are not that big could I use the pod that I have got, or does someone where I can get a MkII pod from as I have tried all the usual suspects and can

That is what I was thinking, until I realised that I have spent just about a similar amount to convert a Hawkeye into a Greyhound. I suppose if you really want to make this as a model and it is the only way, then you may hae to pay to do it.

Thanks for the help, that is the way that I was thinking. My real confusion is that the Linden Hill decal sheet is done in association with the Iraqi Fighters book, and one of the co-authors was from the Iraqi Air Force.

I am making the Streem SU-24M Fencer D and will finish it the the colours of the Iraqi Air Force. I have a couple of decal sheets and this is where I am having a little confusion. I am alright with the lower colour, that is light blue but it is the upper scheme where the problem lies. Two decal sheets (Hi Decal And Authenic) show the upper colours to be sand with dark brown, whilst the Linden Hill sheet and the accompanying book say that it is dark green with dark brown. There are several books that show some colour photos, but these do not really show the colours either way. If anyone can hel

Thanks for that even if I have to repaint the whole areas the Fs No will give me a start.

The red colour on the tails of the aircraft that have yellow and red sun rays, what extactly is it called and what is the nearest paint for this colour. I ask as I am using the North Wing Models C-2 Greyhound conversion with a Hasegawa Hawkeye to do one of these schemes, and to be honest the decals are not fitting that well (it may be me at fault). So I might have to do a some touch up painting or a little more than that. I would be grateful for any help.

Mine arrived today in the UK, and they do look very impressive indeed.

For the past couple of years some person from Poland I think has had a stall at the Scale Model World, and has had both versions of the Top Gun resin kit there. Yet again the cost and the not too brilliance of the mouldings put myself and a friend off buying the kit.

I really do like the look of this and I have been wanting one for years, but it is too expensive for my pocket. Hopefully someone one day might come up with a complete kit.

Now that does sound interesting.

I have for years been looking for F-117 Desert Storm markings in 1/72 and 1/48, but the only markings that I can ever find are with the kit and these are always for the same aircraft which is the one that Col Al Whitley flew during the conflict. This is really a pity as there many more aircraft out there that had better bomb bay art. If only someone would do a sheet or was some sort of agreement reached about which aircraft could be done?

I got a Streem kit that had the Neomega cockpit with it, but it does not fit at all, mainly due to the fact that the nose U/C bay is too big and also it is too wide for the kit. The Neomega cockpit is meant for the Italeri kit.

Thanks for that, very much appreciated.

I am using the Hasegawa kit to make a UH-60A from the Desert Shield/Storm time period. The problem that I have at the moment is the shpae of the stabilator, in that the kit offers you one with a kinked trailing edge and the decal sheet instructions shows the helicopter with a straight edged version. I can't fiind a picture of the actual helicopter that I am building, but I am asking if there is a hard and fast rule with the shape of the trailing edge of the stabilator. I do have a update set that offers both and will use whichever is correct from this. Any help will be grateful.