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About falcon91352

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 06/27/1965

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    Mehring, Germany
  • Interests
    jets and helos 1:48 and 1:32

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  1. @ Raymond Chung: Is a F-104S planned for a later release as well, which was operated by the Italian und Turkish AF?
  2. Shapwise the OEZ/ KP is much more accurate than the Monogram one.
  3. To avoid the much feared paint lifting, only use low tack masking tapes, like Kabuki. You further can reduce adhesion by stick and remove it from the forehead or nose and repeat it one or two times after the tape is no longer sticking, just adhering slightly.
  4. Hello Vitaly Thank you very much for your reply. I try to add more step-by-step photos in the future, but I must confess that I sometimes forget about during the building process, when I am feeling myself always in a state of trance Here, I have compiled some step-by-step photographs and informations about the previously described painting method. At Britmodelle, I recently did the same.
  5. A rought paint : thinner ratio of the "witches´ brew" is: 1 part Hataka Red Line paint 1 part MRP Acrylic Thinner 4 parts Mr. Levelling Thinner 2 parts Tamiya Lacquer Thinner For the future, I will buy more Hataka Red Line sets and hope, that the line will be expanded. There are still some serious gaps to fill, like modern French Armed Forces and Swiss Air Force paint sets to name but a few. Please try this for yourself and share your experience here. Have fun! Here two more pics which show the nice results, which took just a couple of minutes of time:
  6. The result is looking convincing and was achieved in a very short time. The "witches brew" is very nice for fine line work with the airbrush and cloggig does not happen at all. It also can be used for large area painting, but due to its low viscosity it does not cover well and many coats are necessary. However, the finish is very smooth and adhesion on plastic is very good. Since it contains some thinners of the hot type, one might assume that the fumes will smell aggressively, but it is not the case fortunately.
  7. Here the result after lifting the masking tape. Please note the misty thin coat along the edges, which shows the demarcation line quite easily for the next step. The ingredients for the following treatment are visible on this picture too. Now, I want to achieve a realistic smooth blending of the light and darker grey tones. With the original Hataka Thinner this is very tricky and time consuming job due to the feared tip clogging. I have experimented with a lot of thinners and fluids recently, but the new MRP Thinner changed life significantly. Now, I am using a highly diluted RAL7030 mixed with a formula, I call the "witches´brew". At first, I mix a small amount of Hataka RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Thinner in a 1:1 ratio and stirring it thoroughly. Then, I am adding the double amount of Mr. Levelling Thinner and again, a complete one minute stir is essential. Finally, a few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner are aery dded and again, another well executed stir follows. The mix should be highly fluid and sprays beautifully. I am now spraying along the edge into the dary gray area.
  8. As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens. Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.
  9. Many modellers having problems to reproduce the feathered look of camouflage schemes. A realistic appearance can be achieved by free airbrushing, whatlooks like a challenging job to many. Here, I would like to show a time saving and less risky method of applying realistic camouflage schemes shown with Red Line coloors from Hataka. Recently, I acquired some Hataka Red Line Acrylics and had problems with some fast clogging of the airbrush needle. I find their paint sets very appealing and all what I have seen and heard about is, that their tones are quite accurate. Half a year ago, I bought the Modern Luftwaffe Paint Set Vol. 4 HTK-AS66. With their original thinner, I also experienced the clogging and since then, I tried many other thinning formulas for airbrushing with mixed success. I found their Lacquer Thinner quite good for airbrushing the acrylics, but adhesion was quite poor. I think, that I have found a very good manner of processing now, which should enable anybody doing free hand camouflage schemes without any problems quickly. A week ago, I held a workshop at the SMC 2017 near Eindhoven/ NL and all participants have replicated the easy workability successfully, which proved me that my excellent results were not gained by chance. Now, I would like to show how it works nicely. My airbrush of choice is the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR, which I have now since 5 years in use and I am very satisfied about. For this trial, I have fitted the 0,2mm needle/ nozzle combo, which is quite worn and looks more 0,3mm. But it is still working nicely. At first, I gave the test object a coat of RAL7030 Stone Grey mixed with the brand new MRP Thinner MRP-AT in a ratio of 2:1. I added a drop of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, which works wonderfully. The new MRP Acrylic Thinner chimes together with Hataka Red Line colours nicely. The paint dries quickly and can be handled after 15 minutes. However, I let it dry overnight for forther treatment. Then, it can be smoothended with 6000 or 8000 grade Micromesh or just wiping with the finge
  10. Here are the ingredients used for the airbrush session: Airbrush of choice: Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR 0,2mm needle Colours: Xtracrylix XA1132 FS16251 Medium Grey and XA1157 FS16176 Dk. Grey Mod. Eagle Thinners: MRP MRP-AT Acrylic Thinner, Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, Tamiya Lacquer Thinner The thinning process is very essential. At first a few drops of paint are given in a small glass jar. Then a few drops of MRP-AT are added, which is stirred well. Then Mr. Leveling Thinner comes in addition until the mixture has the consistency of milk and again, it is thoroughly stirred. A few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner can be added as well, which gives the mixture a better bite into the plastic for improved adhesion. This mixtures provides excellent coverage, good adhesion and the tendency of clogging the needle tip of the airbrsuh is minimal. Xtracrylix paints are often criticized for the feared clogging effect. Anybody who has some dusty Xtracrylix jars standing in the rear corner of the modelling room should trying out this and probably, you will be amazed how nice the results will be!
  11. The left side tail after the airbrushing treatment
  12. Hello David



    I regret that I did´t foundtime to answer your last email, because I was so busy recently.


    Today I did a small private workshop here at home and I should having more time soon.


    You will here from me then again!






  13. The camouflage pattern on the tail is predefined by a mask from Kabuki tape, which is cheaply available in DIY warehouses here in Germany. The masking means not, that I will do hard edges with the camouflage, which I really don´t like, when the original planes actually shows smooth transitions between the colours. The only reason of masking is to save time. The process ofairbrushing of camouflage schemes can be somewhat tricky and time consuming, due to the constant check of the pattern with references, then continuing with airbrushing, checking again, etc.. You also can draw the scheme with a pencil, but I prefer the masking method. It is mandatory to spray only a misty coat of paint along the edges to avoid a build up of paint there, which would result in a hideous step. The mask should be removed early and the pattern alreday is clearly discernable. The airbrushing work now is continoued with free hand airbrushing along the colour border to the centre of the pattern.
  14. Thanks guys for your nice comments, which does support me in continuing purposefully. The Eagle now has been painted in FS36251 Medium Grey. I am using Xtracrylix paints for the Mod-Eagle scheme which are very accurate. The Xtracrylix paints are known as having somewhat iffy properties during airbrushing. During my preparations for a workshop at the SMC at Eindhoven in October, I did many experiments and trial runs with different modelling acrylic paints and thinners and found out some surprising results. More on this at a later stage here, when fine line airbrushing is demanded for an accurate representation of smooth transitions between the colours, which is done free-hand at best.
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