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About falcon91352

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 06/27/1965

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  • Location
    Mehring, Germany
  • Interests
    jets and helos 1:48 and 1:32

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  1. I am pleased to tell that I am a happy customer from Danny since his first efforts in 1987, when I bought a set of Belgian AF F-16 markings in 1:32 and 48 at the IPMS-Belgium National Convention in September 1987 at the Brussels Aviation Museum. Since then, I purchased a lot of DACO decals, books and conversion kits. I never regret any Belgian Franc and Euro spent in his poducts, which are a state of the art and beside this, he his a nice guy to talk with! Sometimes, he needs some more time for R & D, which can cause delays, but the customer will get a product which is well researched and accurate. Fot the next 30 years, I am hoping we can enjoy his products coming as well. Oh yes, I am looking forward to get a pair of the coming Fouga Magisters at the Flanders Modeling Festival 2020, but if it is not ready then, just a year later. Greetings from Germany Christian
  2. This is good news, because details about the MiG-21bis are not that well published. The -MF is much better unfold, the excellent WWP books spontaneously coming in my mind. If I would be aware in the 80s and 90s, that I will become a serious modeller some years later, I should have done a lot of close up pictures then, but I didn't. I only made general shots of military planes and traded the slides with a couple of collagues in Germany and abroad. Shown on the pictures below are the two camouflaged MiG-21bis, which accompanied the yellow 1904 during the display at the Taszar Air Show 1992. On both planes, the Turul sticker was applied on the right fuselage side. Modellers, who prefer the look of a camouflaged Hungarian AF MiG-21bis can build the 1904 from the kit as well representing the plane before it was repainted in its yellow livery. However, white stencils are needed. Other planes are possible as well, but you need a sheet of tactical numbers by HAD.
  3. This one showing yellow 1904 returning from the display with two regularly painted MiG-21bis from Turul Squadron This shot was taken in the morning on the Taszar flightline prior to flight activities Almost exactly one year before, I visited Taszar Air Base for my fist time. Gladly, the MiG-21bis were operational and 1904 has flown as well, albeit in tactical camouflage colors.
  4. Thank you Gabor and thank you Eduard for this kit and the decal option fo the all yellow Hungarian "Capeti"! One of my long lasting modeling dreams now can become true. I already got the initial Eduard MiG-21bis when it was released, the corrected Coldwar Studios nose section, decals from HAD and Camel decals from a car modeling source. The HAD decals are one of the earlier releases by SZEGEDI Ferenc and not really satisfying by todays quality standards. At this year' s Mosonshow, while having a 1:48 "CAPETI" in mind, I got two sets by Hungarian numbers from HAD, which I have carefully selected to get a pair of sheets in good register. The main problem of HAD decals is, especially with multi colored numbers, that they are out of register sometimes. In 1:144 he released the white and red parts separated. Hopefully he will go this way in the bigger scales too, when they are rereleased sometimes in the future. Back to the yellow MiG-21bis. The reason, that I am so emotional with this special plane is, that I am having many, many nice memories around it. I attended the Repülönap Taszar in August 1992 together with a friend and this is still my favourite airshow of all times! In my life I visited 150+ airshows until now and no one reached this one in terms of aircraft variety, photographic opportunities and hospitality! Although a MiG-29 was missed and not part of the show, there was a great variety of Hungarian AF aircraft and a strong USAFE participation. I became sentimental while seeing my local Spangdahlem and Bitburg AB planes standing side by side with the MiG's and Su-22. But this special all yellow MiG-21bis was my personal star of the show! I took some shots on Kodachrome 25 film, which was state of the art in slide films until the end of its production in 2008 due to its authentic colour balance. Since yellow is not yellow, the hue on the pictures might be authentic on the shots. The first one shows yellow 1904 "Capeti" entering the runway on the taxitrack
  5. @ Raymond Chung: Is a F-104S planned for a later release as well, which was operated by the Italian und Turkish AF?
  6. Shapwise the OEZ/ KP is much more accurate than the Monogram one.
  7. To avoid the much feared paint lifting, only use low tack masking tapes, like Kabuki. You further can reduce adhesion by stick and remove it from the forehead or nose and repeat it one or two times after the tape is no longer sticking, just adhering slightly.
  8. Hello Vitaly Thank you very much for your reply. I try to add more step-by-step photos in the future, but I must confess that I sometimes forget about during the building process, when I am feeling myself always in a state of trance Here, I have compiled some step-by-step photographs and informations about the previously described painting method. At Britmodelle, I recently did the same.
  9. A rought paint : thinner ratio of the "witches´ brew" is: 1 part Hataka Red Line paint 1 part MRP Acrylic Thinner 4 parts Mr. Levelling Thinner 2 parts Tamiya Lacquer Thinner For the future, I will buy more Hataka Red Line sets and hope, that the line will be expanded. There are still some serious gaps to fill, like modern French Armed Forces and Swiss Air Force paint sets to name but a few. Please try this for yourself and share your experience here. Have fun! Here two more pics which show the nice results, which took just a couple of minutes of time:
  10. The result is looking convincing and was achieved in a very short time. The "witches brew" is very nice for fine line work with the airbrush and cloggig does not happen at all. It also can be used for large area painting, but due to its low viscosity it does not cover well and many coats are necessary. However, the finish is very smooth and adhesion on plastic is very good. Since it contains some thinners of the hot type, one might assume that the fumes will smell aggressively, but it is not the case fortunately.
  11. Here the result after lifting the masking tape. Please note the misty thin coat along the edges, which shows the demarcation line quite easily for the next step. The ingredients for the following treatment are visible on this picture too. Now, I want to achieve a realistic smooth blending of the light and darker grey tones. With the original Hataka Thinner this is very tricky and time consuming job due to the feared tip clogging. I have experimented with a lot of thinners and fluids recently, but the new MRP Thinner changed life significantly. Now, I am using a highly diluted RAL7030 mixed with a formula, I call the "witches´brew". At first, I mix a small amount of Hataka RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Thinner in a 1:1 ratio and stirring it thoroughly. Then, I am adding the double amount of Mr. Levelling Thinner and again, a complete one minute stir is essential. Finally, a few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner are aery dded and again, another well executed stir follows. The mix should be highly fluid and sprays beautifully. I am now spraying along the edge into the dary gray area.
  12. As previously said, my goal is to produce a nice free hand sprayed camouflage pattern within a short time period. Next step is to mask the part, which shotd remain in RAL7030 Stone Grey. Masking and free hand spraying is looking quite contradictory, but see later what happens. Now, I am mixing RAL7012 Basalt Grey with the MRP Acrylic Thinner 2:1 and one or two drops of Flow Improver. A 1:1 mix also works and gives a smoother finish, but does not cover as good and need more coats. Now, I am spraying the Basalt Grey into the non masked area. Please avoid to spray directly onto the boarder of the masking tape. Apply only a slight misty coat here to avoid a buildup of too much paint here, which results in a nasty step later.
  13. Many modellers having problems to reproduce the feathered look of camouflage schemes. A realistic appearance can be achieved by free airbrushing, whatlooks like a challenging job to many. Here, I would like to show a time saving and less risky method of applying realistic camouflage schemes shown with Red Line coloors from Hataka. Recently, I acquired some Hataka Red Line Acrylics and had problems with some fast clogging of the airbrush needle. I find their paint sets very appealing and all what I have seen and heard about is, that their tones are quite accurate. Half a year ago, I bought the Modern Luftwaffe Paint Set Vol. 4 HTK-AS66. With their original thinner, I also experienced the clogging and since then, I tried many other thinning formulas for airbrushing with mixed success. I found their Lacquer Thinner quite good for airbrushing the acrylics, but adhesion was quite poor. I think, that I have found a very good manner of processing now, which should enable anybody doing free hand camouflage schemes without any problems quickly. A week ago, I held a workshop at the SMC 2017 near Eindhoven/ NL and all participants have replicated the easy workability successfully, which proved me that my excellent results were not gained by chance. Now, I would like to show how it works nicely. My airbrush of choice is the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR, which I have now since 5 years in use and I am very satisfied about. For this trial, I have fitted the 0,2mm needle/ nozzle combo, which is quite worn and looks more 0,3mm. But it is still working nicely. At first, I gave the test object a coat of RAL7030 Stone Grey mixed with the brand new MRP Thinner MRP-AT in a ratio of 2:1. I added a drop of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver, which works wonderfully. The new MRP Acrylic Thinner chimes together with Hataka Red Line colours nicely. The paint dries quickly and can be handled after 15 minutes. However, I let it dry overnight for forther treatment. Then, it can be smoothended with 6000 or 8000 grade Micromesh or just wiping with the finge
  14. Here are the ingredients used for the airbrush session: Airbrush of choice: Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR 0,2mm needle Colours: Xtracrylix XA1132 FS16251 Medium Grey and XA1157 FS16176 Dk. Grey Mod. Eagle Thinners: MRP MRP-AT Acrylic Thinner, Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, Tamiya Lacquer Thinner The thinning process is very essential. At first a few drops of paint are given in a small glass jar. Then a few drops of MRP-AT are added, which is stirred well. Then Mr. Leveling Thinner comes in addition until the mixture has the consistency of milk and again, it is thoroughly stirred. A few drops of Tamiya Lacquer Thinner can be added as well, which gives the mixture a better bite into the plastic for improved adhesion. This mixtures provides excellent coverage, good adhesion and the tendency of clogging the needle tip of the airbrsuh is minimal. Xtracrylix paints are often criticized for the feared clogging effect. Anybody who has some dusty Xtracrylix jars standing in the rear corner of the modelling room should trying out this and probably, you will be amazed how nice the results will be!
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