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Having never used PE before it's all new experience which I have to admit I am looking forward to.

But what glue to use? I know some say super glue but is there any other glue that's less messy? I have had bad times with SG so am hoping that there might be something else.

Also any tips would be great.

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CA or Cyanoacrylate(super glue)is what the vast majority of modellers will use. Get the proper modelling versions as these come with the proper applicator tips. You can buy it in different viscosities such as Thin, Medium and Thick. You can also get fast or slow setting and either in liquid or gel form.

You only need a little dab of it, I tend to squeeze some onto an old ceramic tile and use a sharpened cocktail stick to apply to the parts that need gluing. Remember to keep everything else well out of the way as CA tends to find it's way onto everything within 5 meters :thumbsup:

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Having never used PE before it's all new experience which I have to admit I am looking forward to.

But what glue to use? I know some say super glue but is there any other glue that's less messy? I have had bad times with SG so am hoping that there might be something else.

Also any tips would be great.

Gator Glue

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

I have not tried the thinner stuff but I am going to order some.

If you can find it The Small Shop used to have a practice pe set SMS-20, a $10 pe sheet to have fun with.

Eduard has a few set that you might want to try to test the waters with 36185,32351, 36187, tp094, search their site more ideas that might fit what you have kit wise.

Also you don't have to use it all on a kit, most people I know only use less then half the sheet for kit.

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The trick to using CA is to treat it like liquid cement. Use a wire (music wire works great) to flow thin CA around the part while it is in place. You can use medium CA to tack it in place or to attach it as normal without using thin CA.

For stuff like Eduard's painted PE I use Tamiya clear, which worked much better than Future for me, and G-S Hypo Cement.

b42l.jpg

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While it might not be something new, I've found the advice from one of the guys at my LHS to be useful. A few drops of CA on wax paper will keep it from curing, and one can then apply CA sparingly from it using a round point toothpick.

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While it might not be something new, I've found the advice from one of the guys at my LHS to be useful. A few drops of CA on wax paper will keep it from curing, and one can then apply CA sparingly from it using a round point toothpick.

Use a wire instead. It's much easier and more accurate and precise and much easier. You can reuse the wire too, by scraping the CA off or rubbing it off with acetone.

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Gator Glue

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

I have not tried the thinner stuff but I am going to order some.

If you can find it The Small Shop used to have a practice pe set SMS-20, a $10 pe sheet to have fun with.

Eduard has a few set that you might want to try to test the waters with 36185,32351, 36187, tp094, search their site more ideas that might fit what you have kit wise.

Also you don't have to use it all on a kit, most people I know only use less then half the sheet for kit.

Anyone found anywhere that sells this in Australia? Asked in the Victorian Hobby Centre and they said that they weren't permitted to import it for some reason

Les

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My favourite applicator for liquid CA is a #20 hypodermic needle -just the needle, not the syringe! It sucks up as much glue as you need by capillary action, gives precise flow and cleans up easily with superglue remover and a rinse under the tap.

(No, I haven't accidentally mainlined any superglue -yet.)

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Gator Glue

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

I have not tried the thinner stuff but I am going to order some.

If you can find it The Small Shop used to have a practice pe set SMS-20, a $10 pe sheet to have fun with.

Eduard has a few set that you might want to try to test the waters with 36185,32351, 36187, tp094, search their site more ideas that might fit what you have kit wise.

Also you don't have to use it all on a kit, most people I know only use less then half the sheet for kit.

I second the Gator Grip Glue. Been using it for a few years now and it has worked great for me. To be honest I like it better than CA glue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a question that would help me and Harrier as well. What do you guys use to attach PE to windscreens/canopies? I know CA will fog clear parts so what elses is there? I tried the link to Gator grip and it looks promasing only issue is the e-mail links dont work. I get email client not installed. Is there another way to get in touch with him to order?

Edited by tosouthern66
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... I tried the link to Gator grip and it looks promasing only issue is the e-mail links dont work. I get email client not installed. Is there another way to get in touch with him to order?

That's a problem on your side.

You could just right-click on the link and paste the email address into your email client (which, from what you write, might be your browser).

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When I'm working with CA glue, I use Gorilla thin Super glue, and Loctite med glue. I just apply a small dab of the med glue to tack the part in place, then I lightly flow on the thin glue with a needle on all sides that I can reach. I use Sprue Brothers accelerator to dry the glue, but not directly from the pump bottle as it gets over everything including me, and leaves a slimy coating that doesn't always seem to completely dry. I tried decanting a few pumps at a time into a small wide mouth jar, then using an old #1 brush, I apply it over the CA glue. The glue dries almost instantly. There is also a debonder for removing any excess glue applied with a Qtip, which I've read about, but never tried as yet.

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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  • 3 weeks later...

Never used the stuff. But this is what I would try: Using a sharp blade, cut the part with its backing away from the rest of the fret, flip the part and backing over, and then peel the backing away while holding the part flat against a hard surface.

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I use Future. I pour a little in a disposable cup like the one you get with Nyquil cough syrup. I pour just enough for the parts I am going to use the Future with It only takes a small amount, Let the Future sit in the cup over night. The next day peel off the top hard layer of future that has set up and you should have a nice thick future underneath. This is what I use for clear parts and PE on clear parts. The thicker Future is easier to work with and will dry fairly quickly as it is cured half way already. It will also dry crystal clear. It acts more like a thick jell glue than future that is still thin out of the bottle. I also use this for PE on the model its self. it takes longer to dry than super glue but the mess that is no longer there that needs to be cleaned up is priceless.

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