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Kurt H.

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Everything posted by Kurt H.

  1. The Solarizer light makes a huge difference. A lesser light leaves many clear UV resins tacky. Sorry you had to start over! Sometimes it is just way easier to start over than try to fix.
  2. For the reasons stated previously I use a gravity feed for most tasks. I like to use a side feed for metallics, sometimes metallics clog my Gravity feed brushes but they do ok with a side feed, or a siphon feed. And the advantage of using a different airbrush for metallics is that since it is a lot of work to get every single metallic flake out of an airbrush, you do not have to worry about contaminating your main airbrush. What I do not like about siphon feed airbrushes is cleaning. Before I discovered gravity feed, I spent a lot of time trying to clean color cups, jars and
  3. I plan to go. I have friends in the area so I will probably arrive early.
  4. My Experience as a seller: Priority mail is usually the best way for most model kits, up to the size of something like a monogram B-17 sized box. Ilike priorty mail because it gets there in 2 or 3 days usually, and has good tracking. it is a good value ... cost / speed Anything larger than that it is often more cost effective to use Parcel Post or UPS Ground. If you sell on eBay, you have the option of buying and printing shipping labels through ebay. I would also suggest getting.a postal scale, so you can weigh the packages at home, and print your labels
  5. Great finish! It was so fun to watch this one come together.
  6. Thanks. I have the every FSM DVD but could not find this.
  7. Now that I think about it, MM would generally be ok as long as the threads on the cap and jar are clean. Before I started using droppers to get paint from the jar, I used to just pout it out, and that would get paint on the threads, and then it would never quite close properly.. and get stuck. I seem to remember at some point the formula changed, and it could turn into jelly if it was more than half empty, regardless of how well it was sealed. I have many bottles which are 20 years or more old. I keep them around because they are still good, and brush well, I just do not airbrush
  8. wow .. looking great, I think you will make it.
  9. In the US you can also get Humbrol and Revel Email enamels.
  10. 67 issues seems like a staggering number ... but that is Hasegawa's thing. I am really not surprised. And there F-16 is in service of many nations, with many different special schemes, and with different variants, it adds up quick. I wonder how many are in a limited edition run. Then I also wonder how many are in an "evergreen" run like the "F-16CJ Misawa Japan"
  11. You can experiment with the Mr Hobby Thinners too. There is Mr Leveling Thinner, Mr Color Thinner, and Mr. Rapid thinner. Mr. Levelling thinner well make it less flat, and Mr. Rapid thinner will make it a little more flat. I use all three with Testors Dullcote to get the look I want. Like Sprumeiester says, it is still available.
  12. Thanks for the context. I do remember sometimes in magazines they would mention kit announcements from manufacturers, and when I saw something I wanted, I would have to check out the hobby store to see if it was out yet. It was fun to go to the hobby store and see what was new. And like Crash Test Dummy said above, to go to several hobby stores, different stores seemed to favor different stuff, so you really had to go to them all to see what was new. Thanks for also confirming my theory that Hasegawa was the king before Tamiya really started to step up. Hasegawa is fo
  13. I see on Scalemates the first Hasegawa F-16 was released in 1983, so it is 40 years old. I understand it was the first accurate kit of a production F-16A, as the other kits on the market at the time depicted the YF-16. Was this kit eagerly anticipated back in 83? Was it expensive? Was Hasegawa widely available in the US at that time? In 1983 I was in 2nd grade, and had not yet been exposed to model magazines, I was building snap tites, and my Dad was building kits like the Monogram F-86 , and F-100. By the time I was old enough to buy my own stuff, I seem to remember not e
  14. My understanding is that they are not sold in the United States, but they are available everywhere else in the world, so many American modelers source them from places like ebay or the Amazon marketplace, or sellers who ship internationally.
  15. I meant Bare Metal Finish. I should have just typed it out!
  16. Wow, It is nice to see a much sought after subject get a new, high quality kit!
  17. You are quite welcome, and yes I built one too.
  18. Nice work, great choice of markings, and nice job on the BMF
  19. That sidewinder is awful! whyyy revell? and did the same thing with my airbrush once ... with a Mr. Hobby trigger airbrush ... what a mess! But back to the subject at hand, great job with the persistence to power through all that sanding and filling.
  20. I love my Pace Booth, this and a good quality compressor have been my best investments in the hobby.
  21. The Hasegawa kit you have should have both intakes, so you are covered there. When I built the SEA camo F-16 I was advised to get the Tamiya Aggressor F-16, which has all the parts to accurately build that plane.
  22. I have built them both. Tamiya has better detail, the surface detail is exquisite, and things like the undercarriage are much more detailed. It also features Poly caps in places. The fit was just about perfect. All the things you expect from a modern Tamiya kit. But .. The Hasegawa kit is still worth building. For an 80s kit, it is amazing. It must have been the greatest kit of it's day. The fit was pretty good, much better than any other 80s kit I have built. One thing I like better is that the upper fuselage half is one piece. The landing gear legs are installed a
  23. Arlington Hobby Crafters, in Arlington, VA in the very early 80s. I do not remember much, but it was pretty old looking inside at the time. I know they had Models, trains, and Tyco Slot cars. I must have been 6 or 7 the first time we went there. The location was close to what was then known as the Parkington Mall. The Mall was heavily renovated into Ballston Common Mall, which I think meant the building the store was in was demolished to make room for the mall. Arlington Hobby Crafters moved to a new location, on Wilson Boulevard. This store was in a strip mall, and was bigger, and wel
  24. Since you asked, here is mine: I worked with 3 amigos decals to make the decals. I painted the red trim on the intakes, and around the canopy. I also painted the red, white and blue stripes on the trailing edge of the wings. It was a fun project, I hope you have as much fun as I did.
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