JohnS

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About JohnS

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    Canadian, eh!

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  1. Thanks Slartibartfast for dropping by. I've spent my modelling time over the last week building the muffler system for the exhaust outlets located at the stern of the boat. I'm guessing this design is unique to the British Power Boat MGB's/MTB's. Here's one of the few photos I found showing the mechanism for the mufflers/silencers; The system consists of two manually operated linkage mechanisms that each raise and lower a circular flap over three exhaust outlets. The exhaust sound is muffled for silent running when the flaps cover the exhausts. Like most parts on this build, there's not a lot of information available. Again, I've had to use a little guesswork & modeller's license to scratch build the parts from plastic sheet, wine bottle foil, & stretched plastic sprue. Here's a (busy) photo showing what's been done to date; I'm now ready to assemble & paint all the bits & pieces. Here's a photo showing the first of six linkages being located & test fitted. Once I've got all six lined-up, I'll trim the linkages to size & glue everything together, before paint. Hopefully, I'll have this part of the build finished for my next update. Thanks for looking in.
  2. Thanks again, Steve.
  3. Hi Everyone! Thanks Phantom for checking in. Here's a couple of detail updates. First, I've made the running lights that are located on each side of the bridge. I used a trick I learned on the Aircraft Modelling Forums for the lights. The lights were cut & shaped from clear plastic sprue. The resulting lights were painted with clear red & green Tamiya paint. I glued pieces of shiny silver foil on the back of the lights, before gluing the lights in the fabricated reflector boxes. The foil adds a bit of sparkle to the painted clear lights. Next I focused on making the two armoured antenna cable conduits located on the port side of the bridge. In photos of these boats, the conduits look they're made from round metal pipe that were boxed in using wood. I assume the wood was used for added protection. It also looks like the antenna wires were terminated at insulators located at the top of each conduit. The wires appear to go from the insulators to 'L' shaped parts, and then to the boat's mast. The 'L' shaped parts appear to offer some protection so the wires won't be pulled out of the conduit or broken when the mast flexes. Here's a photo of an actual boat; I wasn't able to find a lot of information on these conduit assemblies, so I used a lot of guess work/modeller's license when making the parts. My conduits were made from small strips of wood cut from a popsicle stick. The insulators were made from stretched plastic sprue, and the 'L' shaped parts were made from leftover PE material. Here's the result; That's it for now. There's still a lot of small details to make. Thanks for looking.
  4. Works great! Thanks Steve.
  5. Thanks again Steve! Here's a short & tiny update. I've added the handrails & klaxons to the chart house. The handrails were made from strips cut from plastic sheet & the klaxons were cut from where stretched sprue meets the sprue parts tree, to obtain the horn shape. Here's a pic of the bridge superstructure sitting on the deck. I'm focusing now on finishing the external detail on the bridge & chart house,
  6. I've used Wheelliant weighted wheels for a Hasegawa F-14B build. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/207998-f-14b-vf-74-be-devilers-adversary-148/&do=findComment&comment=2497912
  7. Thanks Hajo. I've started adding the details to the exterior of the chart/deck house. The actual boat's deck house was armoured for protection with metal shutters added to its windows, as well. Each shutter assembly consists of a frame, three metal louvers that slide up & down vertically, and a latch to hold the louvers in the closed position. This is one part of the build that I've been hesitant to start, due to the number of small parts required to make the window shutters on the model. I finally got up enough nerve to attempt making the shutter assemblies. I made each shutter frame & the louvers from Evergreen plastic sheet, & the latch from stretched sprue. Most photos of these boats show the top louver on each window in the open position, I imagine to let in some light. So, that's how I made mine. Here's a pic showing the finished shutters before paint. Before gluing the shutters to the chart house, I painted the shutters light grey & the chart house window area gloss black behind where the shutters are located. The gloss black gives the impression of shiny glass. Once the paint dried, each shutter assembly was glued in place. Here's a close-up showing the chart house test fit on the model. ...and another ... Whew, so far, so good! More detailing to follow. Thanks for looking.
  8. The Life Rings are completed. The life rings turned into a mini project. Ropes were added using beige thread, & the grey mounting brackets were cut from white printer paper & painted prior to gluing in place.
  9. Thanks Phantom. Next up, scratch building life rings. Most boats in this MTB class had three life rings (1 - 24" & 2 - 28"), all mounted on the exterior of the deck house. Before scratch building any part, I usually look around my workshop for material that resembles the size & shape of the part I'm going to build, to save as much work & build time as possible. In this case, I lucked out finding plastic wall anchors that have shoulders that match the size of the scale 28" life rings. After cutting the shoulders off three anchors, I needed to sand down one part for the 24" ring, and then rounded the edges of all three parts. Small paper strips were cut & glued to the parts for additional detail. Here's a photo of the end result, waiting for final paint. Next up, I'll be painting the life rings & continue with the bridge build.
  10. I've finished the Vickers machine guns ... finally, after a lot of finger fumbling, breaking tiny parts, & glue over load. The gun sights were formed from flattened lead wire. Here's a pic of the actual guns mounted on an MTB. ... and a photo of my guns test fit on the model. Happy Easter, & thanks again for looking in.
  11. A quick in-process update. I've been working away at the tiny bits for this build. I've finished building the chemical smoke apparatus from Evergreen plastic & stretched plastic sprue. The smoke apparatus will be located at the stern of the boat. Here's a photo of the smoke apparatus waiting for paint. I'm currently in the process of building the Vickers .303 machine guns from Evergreen plastic & stretched plastic sprue. I still need to add a few details to the guns & build the gun mounts. The guns will be assembled in twin mounts, one located on each torpedo tube. Here's a photo of the guns in their current state. Next, I'll assemble the gun mounts and add a little paint.
  12. Very nice!
  13. Back at it again! Another design characteristic, that sets these MTB's apart, is a pair of Carley floats mounted on the forward deck. Early boats had the floats originally located side-by-side on the bow. The captains of many of the later boats stacked the two floats, one on top of the other, to provide more deck storage space for mooring & towing lines. I've decided to stack the floats on my boat, but I needed scratch build them first. I started by cutting balsa wood strips and gluing them together in a rectangle shape. Then the balsa wood was filed and sanded to the proper shape & size. Next paddles were carved from wooden toothpicks, and painted the deck colour. The balsa wood floats were painted the deck colour, thread was added to simulate ropes, and the floor was attached. The floor was drawn using Photoshop and printed on paper card. Finally the paddles were attached and the two floats were stacked & glued together. The Carley float assembly was glued to the MTB deck on the area initially painted white as part of the Coastal Forces camo scheme. Lead wire (.04mm dia.) was added to simulate the float tie downs. Done! Next up, work continues building & adding more details to the boat. Thanks again for looking.
  14. Hello, again! I've finished painting the storage & ready-use lockers using the boat's camo scheme. Also, I had mentioned earlier that I received some information from a naval museum. The good news is that I received the information I needed about the boat's bridge. There are not a lot of photos of this part of the boat, so the naval museum's help was much appreciated. The bad news is, I ended up throwing out my original first attempt at making the bridge. I tried to use just photographs as a guide, but as it turned out, I made some dimensional & detail errors relative to the actual boat design. I've completely remade the bridge assembly, using the new information I received, from plastic sheet & stretched sprue (door hinges & handles). I'm really happy how it turned out (before paint), as it's now dimensionally correct. The overall size is approximately 1-1/4" square. I've also scratch built the boat's wheel from paper card & stretched plastic sprue. That's it for now. Next up, I'll be painting the bridge parts before assembly, & start work on the smaller details around the boat. Thanks for looking.
  15. I've reserved my seat for the finale.