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Jamie Cheslo

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About Jamie Cheslo

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    Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue
  • Birthday 03/25/1964

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  • Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    History (I am a history teacher) vintage aircraft, though I am known to do the occasional jet. Reading LOTS of history and historical fiction. Got to keep those kiddies suitably impressed with my vast storehouse of knowledge..... Chasing airshows and of course I always have a project on the go!

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  1. I think we are saying the same thing. That is I completely agree with you. Perhaps you were more clear. But yes, as I mentioned above, it is always safest to scrape the paint away before gluing. I have always done this and never had a problem with de-bonding. cheers!
  2. I am certainly no glue expert, but I suspect it is highly dependent upon the type of glue you are using. I don't believe if CA glue, for instance, cares much if it is gluing two painted or non-painted surfaces. Tenax, airplane tube glue and others of their ilk actually weld the plastic pieces together. It seems to me that these types would require direct access to the surface of the plastic in order to bond correctly. So, if you are not certain how the particular glue you are using will react, then a safe rule of thumb would be to always scrape away the paint. This way, you cannot go wrong by
  3. Wow!! that is simply stunning work! What a beautiful model it turned out to be!
  4. Wow, what kind of moron walks around with a holstered gun with the safety off? Only goes to show, guns don't kill people, dogs kill people. I always suspected they were a hell of a lot brighter than us anyway. In this case, the dog definitely proved his owner is a candidate for the Darwin Awards.
  5. That is truly inspiring work! I am currently working on the Hasegawa 1/32 "E". Hope mine turns out half as nice as yours!
  6. Hi. Wow, thanks for the great advice, I will have to take a look at those paints you suggest! I actually have no real problem mixing paints to get the "correct" colour. I guess I am a bit lazy, and if there was a route that cuts out a step....lol. I am also going to have to take a good look at those videos you recommend. They sound phenomenal! Cheers!
  7. Like you, I am addicted to this production line. I have two of their "D" models built, and I have the "M" still in the box with the Eduard cockpit set, and I cannot remember if I have the engine detail kit or not?? It has been a while since I have looked in the box. Haha. But I completely agree with you about this kit. It is a marvel of engineering and detailing all on its own and really can be built straight out of the box without a problem! I think it is Tamiya at their finest! I have a question for you: What are you using for the non-specular dark blue-black top colour? Is there one availa
  8. I find the salt-chipping method provides a nice realistic worn finish on the wing roots, gun panels and walkways. I will spray the areas that I want to be "chipped" first with Tamiya's Natural Metal in the spray can AS-something...... Apply the salt/water mixture after the paint dries, let that dry, then spray my top colour on. Once that is dry, I brush off the salt, and voila! Hope this helps.
  9. You can skip this step, if your decals are excellent quality. I find the second gloss coat on top of the decals, followed by a flat or satin coat, really helps to eliminate any silvering and leaves the decal looking painted on. As I said, it's not an absolutely necessary step, but it really does help to give the overall appearance a smoother appearance. This by the way, is only my personal experience. Others may have different experiences. Hope this helps!
  10. Jamie Cheslo

    What is this?

    Wow, sounds like your father had a really interesting and challenging career during the war! Would love to know what he was up to during his stint with the OSS!
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