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About galileo1
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"3 - 2 - 1...Fight's on"
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Thank you very much, all! You all confirmed I'm on the right path.
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Hi all, I know the topic of CDL is most often hard to come to an agreement on but what would "potentially" be the CDL color on Fokker Dr.1s? I'm aware of the many variables that could make me go in any direction here but if someone has an educated guess specifically regard the Dr.1s I'd love to read about it. Thank you!
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oh..didn’t know that the first coat was black. Kinda makes sense now as I’ve Sean a black border surrounding the white. Thanks for the info and tip.
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Mmm...I do have some Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 white I could try. Don't think it'll be thick enough though. Worth a try...
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Liquid paper is the first thing I thought about for this but, like you said, the brushed on look was the first thing that pop in my head. I'd like to see if "white-out" could the thinned and sprayed out of an airbrush but I'm sure cleaning the a/b will present a whole different challenge. I'm trying depict a boneyard F-14A
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Thanks for the feedback. Interesting thought about Maskol and the such. Definitely worth considering.
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Hello all... What would you use to mimic the Spraylat coating found on boneyard birds? I don't think that just painting the areas white would provide the thicker plastic film Spraylat seems to produce. Any ideas? Thanks!
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Thanks, Dave. Great info there.
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Thanks for the feedback, Loach. Can you tell me if I can build the U.S. Army AH-64E using either the Korea AH-64E or the Taiwan AH-64E boxings? I'm aware of the difference in exhausts on the U.S. Army version but not sure about other parts. Rob
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Apart from the angle exhaust (sugar scoop) found on the Hasegawa U.S. Army AH-64E boxing, can I still build a U.S. Army version of the AH-64E using any of the other two Hasegawa kits out there (Korea, Taiwan)? I guess what I'm asking is, are the other parts in those boxings the same as the U.S. Army one with the exception of those angled exhausts? Thanks!