Rob de Bie

I tried another technique tonight, on two old Modeldecal sheets, that had their protection sheets solidly 'glued' on: gently warming the protection with a hair drier. And it worked really well, whereas moistening with several liquids did not do the trick. With the heat, you can see the wax in the protection sheet going liquid, or at least glossy. You can then slowly peel it off, or let gravity do its job. It adheres noticably stronger on the decal surfaces, and much less on the empty spaces between the decals, so go extra slow on large decals. The decal paper curls quite a bit, I guess from th

I built the Belcher Bits 1/48 B28EX and RE, and the nose details agree with the photo I think. Rob

I have trouble recognizing what weapon it is, B28 would be my best guess because of the nose details. But I don't know whether that fits the time and whether it's an authorized F-105 load. Anyone know? Rob

I would go one step further: I only experienced spiderwebbing when ingredients were chemically reacting, or curing very rapidly because of incompatibility. Therefore I would try another thinner. Rob

In Thomas Graham's book on the history of Revell, he tells the story of Royle Glaser, the wife of founder Lew Glaser, having serious problems with understanding kit instructions. It's on page 82 in my version. I read that as insufficient spatial awareness (thinking / ability / understanding), not an uncommon problem. Apparently she once built a B-25 model with the wings swapped and mounted upside down, to the amazement and amusement of the Revell staff. However it resulted in changes in the instructions, making them easier to understand. I would guess the model in question is the old 1/64 mode

Recently I saw this instruction video on how to a printed circuit board using only a laser printer, paper and ferric chloride (FeCl3). No masks / transparancies, no photo-resist, no UV light, very simple: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y6mNqMU9z8&ab_channel=MrCarlson%27sLab Here's a variation using HCl and H202: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9KWOh5I8Fk&ab_channel=zjokka I think the same method should work for photo-etching scale model parts. Has anyone tried that? Rob

I received more information. Diameter is 53 cm / 21", stamped text reads 'E NJ 621 J73', and interestingly the (automated ?) welding of the blades goes left and right, seen from the middle. As far as I can see, it's not a part of the General Electric J73 as used in the F-86H - that would be too easy anyway 🙂 The Latin lettering excludes Soviet engines, but for the rest I'm out of ideas.. Rob

An old friend owns the part shown below, a stator vane ring (or half of one). He doesn't know from what engine it is. Can anyone here help to identify it? Thanks in advance! Rob

I can't help you with interior details, but I know nearly everything about the external details in terms of stores 🙂 Recently I finished a project of three years, researching and building all F-84F stores as used by the RNLAF (Dutch AF). https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/f84f.htm Rob

I like to use templates, but the shape is too complex (for me) to make templates. I'm doing it by eye. I hope to paint it tomorrow. The sensor windows in the leading edge were quite a mystery to me, so far. But with the drawings that you posted I now understand what Anigrand tried to portray there. I will probably tackle that too. But it could take some time - my build log tells me I bought and started this kit in 2005 🙂 Rob

In the mean time I changed the inlet geometry from this: To this, using five spring steel wires to define the edges, so I putty and sand without losing the sharp (but rounded) edges. Next is more Apoxie Sculpt and then paint to see what I've done - with four colors you just can't that. Rob

Mike West of Lone Star Models used to offer this service - I think he's been a professional modeler most of this life. But it seems his shop is closed at the moment, for personal reasons: https://lonestarmodels.com/ Pat Hawkey is probably be another option: https://hawxblog.typepad.com/hawx_blog/out_the_door/ Just curious: what needs to be done? I see some damage on the lower side of the nose, but otherwise the model seems fine. Rob

No, I've never seen deployed slats. And if I may launch a wild speculation: maybe there were vortex flaps like the X-32 had? Kasper wing style? Probably not.. YKM, I'm learning from your extensive posts, please don't stop posting. Rob

Just to be sure, I think this A-6 is loaded with 1000 lbs M65s, not 2000 lbs M66s. I'm judging the crew's height with the 91" (7'7") and 117" (9'9") overall length. Rob

Thanks again! And what a nice shot - I took this screenshot. I can see modex 802, and a bit more searching I found a 'Cut then add' decal sheet that says 'Grumman A-6A Intruder, Bu.No. 151782, Modex 802, VA-85 ‘Black Falcons’, USS Kitty Hawk, 1966' (see: https://ctamodels.com/cut-then-add-1-72-welcome-to-the-jungle) Rob