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Rob de Bie

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About Rob de Bie

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    Full Blown Model Geek

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    http://www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/
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    The Netherlands

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  1. I checked the model at Shapeways, and oh dear.. The fuselage looks reasonably good, although the exhaust is bad. But the wing and horizontals are trapezium-shaped instead of constant chord. And the horizontals have wing endplates, which were very rare AFAIK, but those can be removed easily. That leaves the wing and horizontals planform shape. If you need BQM-34 drawings, check out my PlusModel 1/72 BQM-34A Firebee kit review: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/bqm34review.htm. Wing thickness is 3.04", horizontals thickess 2.8". That would make around half a miilimet
  2. There's always the Corgi die-cast 1/144 DC-130 with four BQM-34As. Never seen it in the flesh though.. Rob
  3. I remembered where I saw the additional doublers: two videos about A-4s used as aggressors. Here are two scenes where they can be seen. https://youtu.be/GlCRs-gINUY?si=32VyVQ3bwOtOxsDy&t=1115 https://youtu.be/e1i2vVPgG8o?si=wkitZHWC0Op1a28S&t=544 That's all I know - don't claim to be an A-4 expert. Rob
  4. From the heart, there are a few more doublers on the fuselage of many A-4 versions. It heavily depends on the lighting whether they are visible. Rob
  5. I have this issue, that was the first issue (AFAIK) that had the bomb bays. Maybe the only? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hasegawa-00086-f-117a-nighthawk-w-gbu-27-guided-bombs--187879 Rob
  6. I tried again, same result. I sent a PM with the message received back. Rob
  7. I looked it up, it was in 2016. Your e-mail address back then was exactly the same as last December. That's puzzling, since there was no problem in 2016. Rob
  8. Just maybe it's that my provider 'xs4all' is blacklisted? It was founded 40 years ago by hackers, and had a bad rep for some years. But that is all way, waaaay in the past. Over to you.. Rob
  9. Hi Rob, my email address is: bryanhwilburn@reagan.com

     

    I'm working up info on the 147G and figure they increased the fuselage size forward of the wing root to accommodate the larger engine.  I'm working with one of the "family" charts and comparing the AQM-34A with the 147G.  By any chance do you have any decent side profile drawing on the 147G?.

     

    Regards,

     

    Bryan Wilburn

  10. Upon rereading the thread, I spotted your full name in the photo's copyright note, so I can answer the question with a yes 🙂 That leaves the e-mail problem. Rob
  11. Yes, I have a few TO 21M-AQM34-3 drawings, courtesy of Dave Matthews, former AQM-34 instructor IIRC. But to transfer them, we need to sort out that e-mail problem. It seems we have similar plans regarding 3D models and 3D printing. But I have too many plans.. 😞 I've done a few 3D CAD + print projects now, and confidence is growing. One question regarding wings is a comment I heard that properly scaled wings always look too thin and flat, and that they need to be fattened as an optical correction. It would help with the bending stiffness too, that would be welcome. What are you plan
  12. Are you the same Bryan that contacted me mid-December? I replied but got an 'Undeliverable' reply: failed: host mx1.emailsrvr.com (173.203.187.1) said: 554 5.7.1 <ewsoutbound.kpnmail.nl[195.121.94.184]>: Client host rejected: The sender's email address or mail server is blocked by this recipient (in reply to RCPT command) That left me without any alternatives to reply. Excellent research on the four-pylon Firebee, and how nice that it is preserved! Rob
  13. I've been working on various AQM-34K / L / M models for many years, slowly understanding the details and creating the parts. I used an Italeri BQM-34A (from the DC-130 kit) as the basis. I used tips cut from needles for the AoA probe you're asking about. The mold is worn out, so I cannot provide copies unfortunately. https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/aqm34.htm https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/aqm34-1.htm https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/aqm34-2.htm I've also done an extensive review of the Plu
  14. One way would be to use the 'countermask' first, and position that accurately. Then you can apply the actual mask in one go. I did something similar on my old Revell F-16: Rob
  15. We're too lazy too, to answer your question. Rob
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