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Rob de Bie

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About Rob de Bie

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    The Netherlands

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  1. Smelly resin concern

    Older Verlinden resin had a distinctive gasoline-like smell, and there was nothing wrong with it, that's just how it came. Maybe it can be traced back to whether it was (is) a TDI or MDI-based polyurethane resin. How would you describe the odor? Rob
  2. Just for completeness, here are the Esci 335 gallon (top) and Italeri 275 gallon (bottom) 1/72 tanks. The Italeri tanks are slightly fatter, 9.5 mm diameter instead of 8.9 mm, or a 14% larger cross-section area (which is what you see). Rob
  3. MiG-29 9.12

    In 1992, I color checked MiG 29UB "80' at Damgarten air show. Damgarten was at that time an operational Russian air force base in the former East Germany. The MiG is pictured here: https://www.netairspace.com/photos/UNKNOWN/Russian_Federation_Air_Force/Mikoyan_Gurevich_MiG-29/Damgarten_Closed/photo_9096/ The camouflage was 36375 and 34233 (the flat version on 24233 on my fan deck). Dielectrics and radome were 26132. Landing gear legs and wheel well interior 36375. The wheels were a green color that could not be matched with an FS595B, it's roughly a mix between 34227 and 34138. 'My' 24233 and 'your' 34227 are very close on my FS fan deck, so I think these are the right colors for an early MiG29. Rob

    It's not a direct answer to your question, but I recently mixed the color of a MiG-25R from book photos. After five tries I ended up with Humbrol 2+47+221 in a 1:3:1 mix ratio. It resulted in a color close to RAL 5021 Wasserblau, I noted afterwards. Maybe it's of some use. Rob
  5. My first progress since 2014...1/48 have blue master

    Looks excellent! From time to time I continue the struggle with my Pegasus 1/72 kit. The most recent discovery is that the vertical tails are completely wrong. Rob
  6. You're right that the quantities are really small compared to professionals working with it day in day out. So I guess I'm safe :-) Rob
  7. Casting resin with overhang narrow shapes?

    Vacuum casting equipment has become a lot more affordable, at least for a simple set. Here's what a Dutch supplier offers, for example: https://www.formx.nl/tools/vacuming-and-pressure-equipment/index.php I use a polycarbonate vacuum desiccator too. You can buy these at lab supply companies, mine was ~75 euros. Rob
  8. Casting resin with overhang narrow shapes?

    I'm pretty sure all of these molds are one-piece, without a seam, otherwise vacuum casting does not work. So it's not a question of a smart seam line. I would guess they use some sort of filler pin, that is pulled out before demolding. This creates a smaller cross section of the mold part inside the exhaust so it can be pulled through the nozzle opening. The pin itself needs a hole, otherwise any entrapped air will eject the pin during the vacuum casting. Rob
  9. Last week I painted a small resin model with a fresh tin of Humbrol 18 Orange. As is pretty standard with modern Humbrol, it is fairly translucent, and I had to apply many coats (in one session) to get good coverage. But afterwards I noted that I can still see the resin colour peeping through. I have a small collection of Humbrol Authentic paints, that I got as a gift. Some of them lack a sticker on the lid, and instead they have been painted with the paint inside the tin. That makes it difficult to identify them properly, so I have no qualms using them. It seemed like an interesting experiment to base-coat a similar resin model with an orange Authentic colour, and then overpaint it later with modern Humbrol 18. The airbrushing experience of the orange Authentic colour was nothing less than amazing: the paint covered in one sweep with my airbrush! This was something I had never seen or experienced before. I was so baffled by the experience that I asked a house-painter about it. His main point was that the pigment in this old paint was likely a lead-based one, and that modern orange pigments were much less opaque. When I asked why the manufacturer wouldn't add more pigment to compensate, he said you can only go to a certain level before the paint properties (drying time, scratch resistance, glossiness, etc) start to suffer. Makes sense to me. So that would explain the differences in covering power of these old and modern paints. The 'but' part came to mind later: can I safely sand this model? Or is it likely that I will create lead-laden sanding dust? I will sand it wet of course. Rob
  10. Designing your own decals

    Here's my list with ~50 Alps custom printers: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm#custom Not all are active most likely, so you have to shop around a bit. Personally I'm very curious about the new printer of http://www.indycals.net/ that can do white too. 40$ for a Letter sheet, or 4$ per vertical inch. The owner prints his own decal line on this printer too. Rob
  11. Designing your own decals

    Thanks for the compliment! I spent a lot of hours on it, but I liked learning to understand that strange printer :-) Rob
  12. Designing your own decals

    Like Ben said, you need vector graphics software: Inkscape (free), CorelDraw (80 euros here) or Illustrator (expensive AFAIK). The learning curve is probably steep, but you will never regret learning vector graphics. It is so versatile that I use it one way or the other for every modeling project: for decals, for making jigs, for measuring photos, for checking line drawings. Very, very recommended. The printer is the difficult bit. You need white for nearly every decal, to go under the color inks, because they are transparent. Therefore laser and inkjets have severe limitations. The famous Alps printer has white ink, but it's a dying breed. You can print absolutely great decals with it, until it breaks. I wrote an extensive webpage on that subject, including 50 custom Alps printer companies: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm Alternatives are popping up slowly. Indycals found or developed a printer that can do white, and they have a printing service. Decals.nl also print white on a big printer, and do custom printing. I think that is the way to go if you don't have a printer yet. Rob
  13. Roden 1/144 C-5

    Here's a more agreeable price: https://www.aviationmegastore.com/lockheed-c-5b-galaxy-330-roden-rod144330-aircraft-scale-modelling/product/?action=prodinfo&art=147101 Rob
  14. Need somebody to do ALPS printing for me

    Here's a list of all custom Alps printers that I know, more than 50 all over the world: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm#custom I guess not all are active, so you will have to ask a few. If you find custom printers that are no longer active, please let me know, so I can update the list. Rob
  15. Monogram decal experts

    One easy way out is to remove *all* decal glue, by rubbing the released decal over a surface. Then use Future as decal glue: just put a drop on the surface, place the decal in it, brush away the excess. Done! Give it a try on some of the decals you won't use. Rob