Rob de Bie

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About Rob de Bie

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    http://www.xs4all.nl/~robdebie/
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    The Netherlands

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  1. I've converted a Preiser 1/72 civilian pilot into something resembling an USAF officer, and it's ready for paining. I'm now wondering whether there is a FS595 match for the fabric of a USAF uniform? I bought a tin of Revell 56, that matches FS 35052, would that work? Rob
  2. OK, I will play too: the Czechmaster Canadair CL-227 helicopter RPV in 1/72 scale. It's a peanut-in-the shell shaped helicopter with co-axial rotors. I'm not even sure the model really exists, it's only mentioned in 'Encyclopaedia of military models 1/72'. Any information is welcome! Second on my search list of strange models is the Panzer Models BQM-34E/F/T Firebee II in 1/72 scale, kit number 72004, in resin, from 1991. There are alternatives for this one, like the 12 Squared model that I have, but I'm curious about the contents and quality of this little kit. Any information on Panzer Models is welcome too. Rob
  3. I know *exactty* how you feel, browsing for the umpteenth time trough a stack of Evergreen packages and not finding the type you were looking for. I recently solved that problem. I used these things, what are they called in the US and / or UK, plastic sleeves? Anyway, I used a temperature-controled soldering iron set at 225C to make (say) ten vertical pockets in each sleeve. I made around ten of them, and put them together in a paper folder. And then I filled nearly all 100 pockets with all my strip and rod and profiles and metal wire and Albion tubing. I even made small stickers with the dimensions of the content of each pocket. All in all it was a couple of hours work. It works really well! Every time that I used it since I made it made me very happy :-) Rob
  4. I assume you have a stand-alone spinner, no propeller blades attached, correct? In that case I would cover it roughly in low-tack aluminum foil (see my Canopy masking with Cheap Chocolate Foil tutorial, or use BMF foil). Then put the spinner on its base on your table, so you can spin it around manually. Next, take a very sharp knife blade, and lay it down horizontally on anything at hand (cardboard, plastic card, a deck of cards) at the right height. Slowly rotate the spinner against the blade, cutting through the foil. Repeat that for different height levels where you want your rings. Remove the foil where you want to paint the spinner, and voila, you have your perfectly masked spinner. Rob
  5. Thanks Marv! It looks like the same walkaround as posted on Prime Portal though :-( Rob
  6. The nose of the Hungarian Yak-28R survived, I found a photo of it. The wing colors are indeed very difficult to see, most of the paint on the torsion box is worn off. But luckily I'm not building that aircraft, so it's not a real problem. The Riga Yak-28R has more remaining paint, and I've sketched most of the left wing camo pattern. But I haven't found a decent view of the right wing yet. There's no big hurry, the model still needs a lot of work, so hopefully that problem will be solved in the future. In the mean time, here's an update on the right side view drawing: Rob
  7. Wow! That surely helps a lot, I had not seen this walkaround yet! This Yak-28R looks like the sister of the Riga aircraft. It has the same color combination, and the camouflage patterns on the rear fuselage and tail are roughly identical. When I clicked the first random photo I thought I was looking at the Riga aircraft, so similar was the camouflage. Maybe the Riga aircraft came from the same unit? The 'Roncs-Ranch' Yak-28R is a former Debrecen (or Kunmadaras) based aircraft, probably 328th Regiment. Thanks for your help! Rob
  8. I'm slowly building the Amodel 1/72 Yak-28R. The Yak-28 series is one of Amodel's worst, very rough, requiring a lot of work. I'm getting to the point where I need to decide what specific aircraft I want to portray. Since I cannot find enough color and color scheme information of operational aircraft, I started thinking about doing a museum aircraft. Then I found the Riga Yak-28R, and that looks like a good candidate. The internet provided quite a few good photos of this aircraft, that show most of the camo pattern. I'm sketching the pattern over a line drawing of a generic Yak-28, but there are big gaps on the rear of the aircraft, and the upper wing. I found out that I can almost see the camo pattern on Google Earth, amazingly! My question is whether there's a modeler in the neighbourhood of Riga, who can fill in some gaps. Ideally he would shoot some photos of the rear of the aircraft, or draw the pattern, and maybe find a higher vantage point to see the top of the wing. Color matches would be another question. And maybe you can find out more about the history of this aircraft? I would love to more about it. There's no big hurry with these questions. As compensation for your time, I can design and print Alps custom decals. Rob
  9. I think you would need to re-cast the part to make it fit, and use some tricks during the recasting: first method would be to cast a condensation (tin salt) silicone rubber mold. That type of silicone rubber shrinks a bit, and keeps shrinking during its life. Typical brochure numbers are 0.1-0.4% shrinkage second method would be to use a very fast resin for the recasting. Those resins heat up during the cure, depending on the ratio of (heating) volume to (cooling) surface.They solidify when they are hot, so when they cool down to room temperature they shrink. This can give you 0.5-1.0% shrinkage according to brochures I guess this is way too much work for your part though :-) Rob
  10. I don't have straight answers, but maybe a solution. I experience similar problems, but with my computer. My chair charges me badly, and when I want to plug in something (USB cable, memory stick) I discharge myself accidentally on the computer. Usually it continues working for a few more seconds, then it slowly crashes. The modem also crashes, and it takes a few minutes to get everything working again. Plus there's the risk of permanent damage Recently I made a simple grounding point near the USB connectors, by running a small electrical cable from the computer chassis to the exterior of the computer. But that only worked partially: with a strong discharge the computer still crashed. Plus it was annoying to still get zapped badly. After a bit of thinking I decided to add a resistor to the grounding point. I used a 100K Ohm resistor. The discharging is now slowed down sufficently to avoid computer crashes, and I no longer get zapped. Seems to work! I'm now thinking how to convert my improvised solution into something permanent and nice. Maybe you can make a grounding point with a resistor on your car door? Rob
  11. If you want to take the Alps decals route, I have a long list of custom Alps printers here: https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/decals.htm#custom Be aware that a good quality decal sheet requires two steps: drawing the (vector) art work, and then the printing itself. The former is (usually) a lot more work than the latter, and not all custom printers want to do the art work. Serial numbers and solid color strips are of course easy and quick, but a command crest could be more work. And an Alps has a limited color palette. Rob
  12. There's a big list of custom Alps printers on my site: Design your own Alps / OKI custom decals Fireball Modelworks in the USA is a popular choice (fast and affordable), Decal Lab and Mask Decals in Spain are the latest additions I think. In the Netherlands you could try decals.nl. They use a big commercial printer, and what I saw looked very good. As long as you provide the artwork, they will print it. He said roughly 25 euros for an A4 sheet, which is a lot larger than many regular decal sheets. And remember: you don't need a white background, since all stars are on white. That could reduce the price considerably. Rob
  13. Any decal custom printed (Alps, laser or ink jet) will be on a full page film, so that doesn't make a difference. I would go for Alps, they are very nice. Masks: you can cut them on a relatively cheap Silhouette plotter-cutter. One of our club members uses one to do nearly all markings of 1/48 aircraft. Two examples: Regioavond Zuid-Holland mei 2016 look for the Corsairs Regioavond Zuid-Holland juni 2015 look for the F-106 He will give a presentation on the subject in October - you're welcome :-) But I don't think 1 mm stars are easy, that is very small. A photo-etched mask is another option. Again there are plenty of custom photo etchers. Of the three options above, I would go for decals, that's for sure. If you hate full page film that much, you could have custom printed decals cut with a Silhouette plotter-cutter. Just cut through the decal film, not the paper thickness. A Silhouette will recognise alignment markings on the decal sheet, so it can be done. But I don't know anyone who offers both services. Rob
  14. I found an old picture of HB-XDP full of stars, and it seems they are all placed on white areas. That means you can do without a white background, because the model provides it. So you could print them yourself on clear decal sheet. Alternatively you can have the stars custom-printed on an Alps, there are plenty of custom printers who can do that for you for a decent price. Very sharp printing, gold and silver metallics can be done too, but a limited palette if you want solid printed decals instead of dither printing. Rob
  15. I have a Word document with an Air International Cumulative Index, June 1971 - May 1998, compiled by Robert M Stitt. I guess it's from the good old days of rec.models.scale. E-mail me at robdebie at xs4all dot nl if you want a copy. Rob