Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About andrew.deboer

  • Rank
    Opulence: I has it.
  • Birthday 06/12/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Grand Rapids, MI, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

12,517 profile views
  1. I’m tired of the “what’s wrong with the Monogram kit?” answer. I have 30 or more reasons why I’m not building a Monogram A-10 - one reason for each year it’s been out. I’m not interested in exercising the modeling skill (which I do have) I would need to bring that “classic” up to modern standards. Just like I’m not buying a 1987 Buick and turning it into a Tesla. I want to build a well-engineered kit of what seems to be a very popular subject. I had the Hobby Boss kit not long ago, and sold it, and could certainly buy another. At this point, though, I have more than enough to keep me busy, and if a company like Tamiya steps up, my money will be waiting.
  2. I don’t have a girlfriend, but if I did I would not want her and my wife to be in the same crew as me. Very awkward.
  3. I am sorry that you are insulted. It was not my intention and I apologize. When I said your store looks like a guy selling his stash, I mean that there isn’t very much in your store. IT is as if you had a personal collection of kits and had created an online store to try and sell them. Eduard's Tornado is “temporarily unavailable”, which means that it is sold out. Were you trying to buy it from Eduard at wholesale price? I think that you would need to be a registered reseller with them (are you?) and perhaps would need to buy a case of them. Are. You. Registered. With. Eduard. As. A. Reseller.
  4. Your “store” looks like a guy selling his stash. Do you have a business license? Are you registered with Eduard as a reseller? Not defending Eduard’s behavior (if it was as you describe), but you don’t look like a legitimate reseller.
  5. I’m glad the tail kit is a separate section. That way I can apply ablative coating to the warhead without masking off the tail. Punch ‘em out, man!
  6. I know. However, he specifically said he intends to take a completed B [first photo] and convert it to a D. His completed model looks like it does not have the things I mentioned.
  7. Matt McDougall has been building the Tamiya P-47M. It’s quite a commitment, but you can learn a lot from watching his video series.
  8. Looks like you might also need new main wheels, BOL sidewinder rails, LANTIRN pylon pod. Or you could leave it just like it is, and buy a Tamiya or AMK F-14D kit. Sorted.
  9. Yeah, I came off like a jerk. Sorry about that. Mi scuso. Mine fits. Don’t know what to tell you. To be fair, it is difficult to get the tab on the bottom of the seat inserted properly in the slot in the floor. I have also seen some instances where the cockpit had been slid into the nose with its alignment tabs above the rail inside the nose, rather than below, which could make the entire cockpit sit higher. I would cut off the tab on the bottom of the seat and sand the bottom of the seat with a coarse grit. The bottom of the seat will never be seen.
  10. Try it, and report back. I tend to abide by Mission Models’ advice, but I have read accounts from modelers who have thinned that paint with all sorts of things and made it work. I have only tried their thinner and have been happy with it. Although water might work, it might hurt the adhesion of the paint.
  11. The Furball set I have are photoetch with some fastener detail. I see that they also make a vinyl set, but I have not tried them and probably will not. I like the Crossdelta ones because they are thin, but they still have rivet detail and they are self-adhesive, so I’ll probably just keep using those.
  12. Those tails look great. I tried the Furball etched ones, the Steel Beach resin ones, and the Crossdelta metal sticker-type. By far I liked the Crossdelta ones the best, despite having to stack three stickers up to make each brace. Where did you get the small plates close to the leading edge?
  13. If model kit manufacturers never made improvements to their products, we would be using tube glue to put together models molded in only black plastic and applying decals with 1/16” of carrier film around each decal, using hand-drawn black and white painting and decal-placement guides. User input is valuable. And, since molds are no longer cut by hand, it wouldn’t take long for a machine to add the numbers to the other side of each tab.
  14. So you want me to write the number of each part on the reverse side of every sprue in a kit that has sprues A through L?
  15. OK, on to the infamous wing sweep seals. I’ll say right now that I’m not going to sweat the shape of these, or the adjacent contour where the stabilators attach.. AMK molded the left and right wing sweep seals as one, with the visible parts connected by a robust set of beams. I installed the part but glued only the right side. As usual, it took some trimming of part edges to get a gapless fit. Once the right side was set, I checked the left side and saw (as I had suspected) that the connection with the other side would prevent that part from fitting flush. I snipped a section out of each beam, freeing the part to fit exactly the way I wanted it. I am sure the joint between the top and bottom fuselage parts will need some truing-up to get it gapless, but I’m satisfied with the top parts. . ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  • Create New...