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About andrew.deboer

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    Opulence: I has it.
  • Birthday 06/12/1969

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    Grand Rapids, MI, USA

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  1. They may have finally gone down the drain. Site’s “closed for renovation”.
  2. You’re a funny guy! And no, I didn’t hold each one and thank it before tossing it. Throwing them away did not spark joy, but looking at them didn’t either. I’ve built several Tamiya F-14s, and when I looked at the surface detail and shape and fit of the Hasegawa parts, I just couldn’t justify spending another moment of my rapidly-dwindling time on earth working on them or even storing them.
  3. In a moment of clarity (I have learned to act when these occur), I tossed three half-completed 1/48 Hasegawa kits today. An F-14A, and F-14D, and an F-16D all went in the trash. It had been years since I worked on any of them, and when I opened the boxes, I was completely uninterested in touching them again. The Tomcats have been more than eclipsed by Tamiya (I’ve finished 3 to my single Hasegawa), and the F-16D was not some of my best work. Anyone else ever dispose of things because you just know you’ll never touch them again?
  4. That thing will be a monster! That blower looks a little small - will it pull enough CFM to cover such a large opening? I bought a Pace paint booth years ago. While i can’t say I made it myself, I can say that it does the job perfectly. I look forward to seeing updates on yours.
  5. SWEET. I have publicly wished for this a number of times, and it made sense because Zvezda has done so many other Boeing planes: 747, 767, 777, 787. It made so much sense I feared it wouldn’t happen. So... RR and PW engines, -200, -300, winglets, & flaps, please! (I don’t want much.)
  6. Things are coming along pretty well, but I’ve hit a snag with a decal detail: Does anyone know which “no step” markings were on the stabilators? We’re they just “NO STEP”, or were they the “NO STEP / NO LIFT” combo markings?
  7. Thanks for the additional insight into the MPP. I have always had the impression that it was non-trivial to remove and install. I may change my mind about not doing that; it wouldn’t be a lot of work and it would be unique. Quick progress report: The seats are done but I haven’t taken a photo. More on that soon. I wanted to tint the center pane of the windscreen, but I usually find that the blue-green color is overstated on many models. I took 1/3 of a bottle of Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss and added ONE drop each of Tamiya Clear Green and Clear Blue. Origi
  8. Watched the first two, and I was glad that Trudy Cooper got some of her story told. Didn’t realize she was a pilot! While the movie sets a very high bar, I like the idea that they can expand the story over more time.
  9. Yeah, they didn’t get very close to Dark Gull Gray, but when I applied the Quinta panels to my Tamiya F-14 cockpit I found I didn’t care. The thing I did fix was the edges of some of the panels. In this photo you can see that the tops of the breaker panels have a very noticeable white edge. I touched them up with 36231. Go ahead and apply all of the decals, then test fit the cockpit in the fuselage and see what you think. I love these things.
  10. Here’s something I won’t be doing: This shorty glove pylon is pictured under 158989.
  11. I do feel like the product is a game changer, and I’m glad I got one for this model, but I don’t think I would buy a set by default for every jet I do. Once the model is done it is rare for me to look at the cockpit in detail again, so adding almost $30 to a kit that retails for $90 (the price of the Tamiya Tomcat is worth it to me) is a rarity. The kit parts are really very good, and I have also detailed the kit parts with Fightertown Decals’ cockpit decals (48087), and considered that to be the best value for money yet. I applied the panels according to the instructions, but since t
  12. I scraped off all of the molded-in cockpit details, put the bits together, and sprayed the whole thing with Dark Gull Gray, then took a quick run at the Quinta Studios set. This is basically 3D printed in color onto decal paper. They don’t stick as well as decals; I used a drop of Future (gasp!) under each panel because it’s clear and very sticky. The camera is not kind; when viewed with the eye, it gives a great impression with tons of knobs and switches shaped like the real ones. The gray color is very light, but I have decided I don’t care; that will keep the cockpit from looking t
  13. Of course you may! [I knew the topic would get your full attention] Thanks for the clarification. It is good to know I was headed in the right direction, and fortuitous that Tamiya put two sensors in the kit. I just need to drill an additional hole in the nose below the windscreen and insert the part.
  14. Couple of details specific to early F-14s: In this pic of NK-101 (looks like 158989), you can see an extra data probe of some sort below the windscreen. I need to create that; maybe it ended up on the other side farther aft on later production blocks? EDIT: this is part E12. The kit gives 2, but only directs you to use 1. Problem solved! On the left tail above the rudder, early F-14s did not have an ECM antenna. I cut this off the Tamiya tail and smoothed it out. I’m having a little trouble matching the red of the decals with paint in order to paint the oute
  15. My favorite method for Gloss White is to start with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer from the square bottle. This is a fantastic flat white, highly pigmented and thinnable with lacquer thinner - I use Mr. Leveling Thinner. Once that base coat is down I follow up with Tamiya X-2 Gloss White thinned 50-50 with MLT. This gives me a gloss surface - or at least satin - which takes enamels like Tamiya Panel Line Wash very well. Wiping the excess PLW off with terpenoids has no effect on the Tamiya Gloss White. Here’s the lower wing with a quick, imperfect application of Gray and Brown Tamiya Pa
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