Little known but useful FACTS

[The Rat]

Somewhere else there's a fun thread on useless facts, but isn't it time we had a repository of seemingly trivial, but actually very useful stuff? Like this one for instance:

WWII era Boeing Stearmans did NOT have shoulder straps for the pilot. I've seen many modeled with shoulder straps because the modeler either assumed they would have them or they looked at reference material of survivors, probably all of which have had them retro-fitted. In an open-cockpit aircraft this error would be glaringly obvious.

I'm sure there are many more such things, anyone else with anything to add?

[The Loggie]

WWII Pilots flying a P.51D with a full fuel load, were forbidden to perform sudden or violent manouvers (such as those required for a fighter-vs-fighter dog-fight). This is because the fuel in the internal 70-(US)gal fuel tank (behind the pilot) moved the aircraft's Centre of Gravity (CG) rearward, thus rendering the aircraft dangerously unstable. The fuel in this internal tank was used first, so that the aircraft could function as a fighter as it neared Occupied Europe. Next was the fuel in the external/drop tanks.

It is a wonder that, after examining downed P.51's the Germans didn't position uftwaffe fighters along the coast to intercept the P-51's at a time when they were full of fuel and couldn't fight - easy targets that would burn well.

Apparently the Gee Bee racer had the same problem - which contributed to its reputation of being a killer. When it had burnt-off much of its fuel, the aircraft was balanced and quite nice to fly.

George, out............................

[The Loggie]

Apparently, the producer of the film "A Bridge Too Far" had a replica Horsa glider built to the exact Airspeed plans & specifications. His intention was to have a Dac/DC.3/C-47 to it into the air. But the resident Civil viation Authorities would not permit it as the 'aircraft' did not meet current sepcifications. If fact, it was listed as a non-airworthy death-trap.

George, out...................

[RedHeadKevin]

-Beauty supply stores are great sources for modeling files. Less expensive, and with more grits than most dedicated "model" files.

-Although it feels like it, Lacquer thinner doesn't actually seep through latex gloves.

-Most sprue is a 1/8 inch cylinder.

-Using watercolor for a wash will work better if you add a drop of dish soap to the water

[CF104]

Hey George,

Interesting facts but there but they don't really help the modeler building a kit.

My first addition concerns the CF-104. Imagine that :unsure:

A few items usually built wrong when it comes to the CF-104:

*The bump on the lower windshield frame is for the IR sight which was never installed in the CF-104. This should be removed when building a CF-104.

*The CF-104 never had the link/shell ejector chute as all links and shells were carried back home in a bin behind the NLG bay.

*The M61 cannon was not installed in the CF-104 until after 1972 when their mission changed from nuclear strike to tactical strike. The gun port had a fairing cover during the nuclear strike years.

*The CF-104 is just that.. a CF-104. The CF-104 was developed from the F-104G with differences due to the intended role and was never known as the CF-104G.

Cheers,

John

[dancho]

The 20 mm cannon on the F-16 leaves NO soot or smoke stain or paint chipping or corrosion to the rear of the gun port. It's all in front-- not in back.

[dahut]

A modeling knife with a piece of sprue taped to the handle will not roll of the bench and impale your foot.

[C. Alan]

A modeling knife with a piece of sprue taped to the handle will not roll of the bench and impale your foot.

Hmmm... Sounds like the voice of experience.

[B-17 guy]

those rubberbands that come on some produce are great for paint jar lids.

[Gundamhead]

American WWII bomber interiors aren't always painted zinc chromate green, there was yellow zinc chromate, interior green, olive drab, and bare metal. They were also mixed in the use, the bomb bay may have been bare metal while the cokpit was green. Just cause the instructions say so, don't mean it's true.

[The Rat]

American WWII bomber interiors aren't always painted zinc chromate green, there was yellow zinc chromate, interior green, olive drab, and bare metal. They were also mixed in the use, the bomb bay may have been bare metal while the cokpit was green. Just cause the instructions say so, don't mean it's true.

Now THAT'S what I mean! Useful stuff for modelers, good one.

[oortiz10]

Castrol SuperClean (or it's Int'l equivalent) is an excellent paint remover. It's cheap and easily attainable, isn't as nasty as oven cleaner or brake fluid, and doesn't harm plastic. Even clear styrene!

I've used it to remove paint (acrylics, enamels & laquers) from several kits. Usually with no scrubbing. Even paint that's been on plastic for years!

-O

[LVZ2881]

Castrol SuperClean (or it's Int'l equivalent) is an excellent paint remover. It's cheap and easily attainable, isn't as nasty as oven cleaner or brake fluid, and doesn't harm plastic. Even clear styrene!

I've used it to remove paint (acrylics, enamels & laquers) from several kits. Usually with no scrubbing. Even paint that's been on plastic for years!

-O

It has a harder time removing Tamiya TS Sprays though....best bet when needing to strip Tamiya TS is to grind or sand thru some of the paint, down to bare plastic, so the CSC can get under the paint, then it works much faster!!!

[volzj]

When brush painting,use a brush with bristles no shorter then 1/4 inch long,thin to a 50/50 ratio,use retarder and NEVER make more then 2 passes over the painted area until the paint dries. Do that and you'll never see a brush stroke.

And use Polly Scale, the best hand brushing paint I've had the pleasure to use.

[Unit19]

When storing unused paint brushes they should be stored hanging bristle down so any remaining paint residue, water, or thinner, will not collect and remain in the base of the brush. Over time, gunk will build up in the base of the brush and the brush won't perform as well and also, if you're using enamels, thinner left inside the base will loosen the glue which holds the bristles inside the base. A way to accomplish this is to attach a length of spring (like a section of an old screen door spring) on a vertical surface or wall. The you simply push the brush handle into the spring and tension will hold it in place. This also keeps the bristles in shape by not having your expensive brushes bunched together in a jar.

Another tip is to purchase a brush cleaning pot. This is a wide mouth jar with a lid and a wire grate inside of it. You fill the jar with brush cleaner and when you need to clean your brush you just wipe it back and forth against the grate (which is immersed in the liquid). The paint particles will slowly fall out of suspension and collect in the bottom of the jar leaving clean brush cleaner for your next use. Every so often, you just pour off the clear brush cleaner, clean out the muck on the bottom of the jar, then pour back in the old cleaner with a little new cleaner. It's one of those tools which will pay for itself in no time.

Also, never use the special enamel paint "brush cleaner" as thinner when mixing your paint. I did this, and the paint stayed sticky for weeks.

[Mike Phillips]

Steve or another Mod---

PIN THIS PLEASE!

Mike

[xavi84]

A quick and smiple way to tell if your paint has cured is to smell it (on the model )

if it still smells than it hasn't fully cured.

DON'T GO SNIFFING PAINT OUT OF THE BOTTLE!

[MarcusW]

Tamiya Flat Base X-21 is NOT a varnish or clear flat coat. You mix it with a glossy paint to make it flat. You can also mix the Flat Base with Clear Gloss to get a clear flat coat or a satin finish, depending on the amount mixed in. Works great.

Edited January 6, 2010 by MarcusW

[JackMan]

Tamiya Flat Base X-21 is NOT a varnish or clear flat coat. You mix it with a glossy paint to make it flat. You can also mix the Flat Base with Clear Gloss to get a clear flat coat or a satin finish, depending on the amount mixed in. Works great.

Does this also work for brush painting? Thanks :unsure:

[MarcusW]

Does this also work for brush painting? Thanks :wacko:

Yes, absolutely. Tamiya paints can be pretty much self leveling when "flooded" on. To minimize brush strokes you can add some retarder or flow-aid to slow down the drying process, resulting in a more even coat.

[Janissary]

Mr. Hobby liquid masking solution (the green liquid) is highly water soluble. I learned this the hard way when I was trying to wash my F-15 in the kitchen sink before painting only to see it ruin a completely dried liquid mask around the metallic sections.

Fortunately, I was able to remove the tape and wash the remaining liquid mask off in the same way, without ruining the underlying finish (well, except for two small boo-boos).

Edited January 7, 2010 by zidane

[Janissary]

double

Edited January 7, 2010 by zidane

[Janissary]

double

Edited January 7, 2010 by zidane

[tornado64]

DON'T GO SNIFFING PAINT OUT OF THE BOTTLE!

why not ????? :)

[MarcusW]

Mr. Hobby liquid masking solution (the green liquid) is highly water soluble. I learned this the hard way when I was trying to wash my F-15 in the kitchen sink before painting only to see it ruin a completely dried liquid mask around the metallic sections.

Fortunately, I was able to remove the tape and wash the remaining liquid mask off in the same way, without ruining the underlying finish (well, except for two small boo-boos).

This also goes for Microscale Liquid Mask that also can react badly to water based paint, like acryl paints. It says on the bottle "Use of petroleum based paint is recommended. Paints containing water is not recommended". I would guess this also applies to Humbrol Maskol. So liquid masking mediums are a big no-no for us acryl-users.