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John B

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    From KNKX, fly heading 240 for 4.0 miles

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  1. Hello Andrew - I have a copy of EagleStrike 48212 uncut. If you are in the US, I'm willing to sell you the sheet for $15 plus postage. Link to image of sheet Please contact me via the Private Message option if you're interested.
  2. Confirmed, red. - > Blue Angel A-4 Dirty Roll Better picture -> Blue Angel Solo Dirty Roll on take off
  3. What am I supposed to be looking at? It all seems like a well-focused... ..."seat" to me. 😉
  4. That image looks fine. The images in your T-33 thread look good, too. There's one overarching secret to getting infinite depth-of-field and having everything near and far perfectly in focus for models -> there's a lot of illusion. It's impossible for your eyes to have something 2 inches from you nose and 2 miles away perfectly focused at the same time. Your eye changes focus when you look at each object. The reason why your perceive it differently in a picture is because different areas of the picture aren't re-focused as you look at them. Let me go back to my list and adjust it for what you're trying to do - 1. - Use 18-55mm lens (aka the "kit" lens) 2. Shot outside on bright days in the shade =OR= outside on overcast days Turn on both work lights and open the blinds. 3. Camera set up on tripod 1 to 2 ft away from subject with legs NOT extended more than 1 section. 3a. Better to be a little farther away from the model and zoomed out a little more than just the area you want the attention on. 4. IS switch (Image stabilizer for Canon lenses.) on lens turned "off" 5. Set the ISO to 100 6. Mode wheel set to "Av" and F-stop set between "14" and "22" 7. Remember to adjust the lens length to a little more area than I want to see in the final image. (See step 14) 8. Focus switch on lens set to "Manual" (On my Canon lenses, switch it from Af to M) 9. While zoomed in on rear LCD display, I adjusted focus point about 1/3 from the front of the model. focus on the area you want to highlight. 10. There was a shutter countdown function in the old Rebel Xsi. I set it to take the picture 10 secs AFTER I pressed the shutter release button. (Newer Canon SLRs can have the shutter button triggered with the Canon App on your phone. I haven't tried it.) 11. Once I pressed the shutter release button, I took my hands off the camera and moved away from the tripod. 12. After the "amber" red light turned off and I heard the second "click", I knew the camera had finished taking the exposure. 13. I took a couple more shots with the F-stop a couple of values up and down from where I started. 14. After shooting, I cropped the images in my computer to remove stuff I didn't want from the picture. Example the parts of the model closer and farther than the area of interest will eventually look out of focus.* Crop those areas of the image out. 15. (OPTIONAL, but I always ended up doing it) See dog/my hair, feather, dust, finger prints, shadows or leaf/twig/insect in the image. Slap my forehead. Go back outside and retake pictures. *Remember how I said getting something very close and very far all in focus is a lot of illusion? Cropping out the the areas that are really blurry makes everything look focused. Here are some tricks I found work for me - 1. Make the area you want people to look at the area that you try to focus. Look at this image and read this - "I painted the engine cowl white and used red decal for the dots." Click here. You're looking at the prop hub and the engine of the model? You're not noticing that the letters on the tail of the model are out of focus? 2. Use a plain background. No one notices when a plain background is blurry. 3. Whenever possible, take images of multiple objects so that they are the same distance to the camera. This allows you to worry less about depth-of-field. Examples -> Click here #1 and Click here #2 4. Position the subject so that parts of it isn't really close to the camera and another part is really far from the camera when trying to it all in focus. Click here 5. You can position parts of the subject really close or really far if you only want to focus on a particular area and don't care that the near and far parts are out-of focus. Click Here #1 Click Here #2 Click Here #3 The images in your GWH T-33 thread look fine and already look "more in focus" than the A-7 image you posted earlier. I'm not an expert in photography and I learned by playing with the camera and asking questions. Since it's all digital, play with camera as much as you like. I think you're learning technique and will just keep getting better.
  5. That looks good. Meet me in your camera thread. We'll discuss.
  6. ADDED F-14 Package, G-Factor Landing Gear, MAW-Decals LAU-9s and decals
  7. Nice workbench. With the lights and the sunlight through the window, it looks much brighter now. Have you tried taking in-progress pictures with a tripod and the brighter workbench setup? Have the images improved the way you were hoping for?
  8. Are the terms "'80s" and "hair band" redudant? That's like saying "old school Super Nintendo". 😜 A lot of songs can be reworked/mixed into styles that appeal to the listener - hard rock, country, techno, dance, etc. If you are/aren't a fan of particular style, it may bias the you towards/against the song in that style. Here is the "The Final Countdown" given the "EPIC"-style rework -> EPIC COVER | ''The Final Countdown'' by Damned Anthem
  9. I used to shoot Kodachrome 64 and film, but I would never go back to film again. I can't even think of where I could get film processed anymore. Sony is making making fantastic mirrorless camera bodies. The max number of frames per second in multiple exposures sounds like a 3 high-end FILM cameras with motordrives going off at same time. The only criticism I have of them is the short battery life and body that is too small for my hamhock hands. I think you've hit the perfect combination of quality lenses with high-tech Sony electronics.👍 Sometimes I feel like using the HDR function is cheating... sometimes .😉 I never had the capability before my current Canon body. I used to bracket the exposures of my images, but there is a limit to exposing for highlists and shadows. HDR makes it so easy and it allows me to capture images that would have required a lot of work in the darkroom in the old days or Photoshop just a decade ago. Definitely break out that XTi! Every technique you learned the expensive way on film will apply on the XTi. In fact, you'll find it very familiar territory and many things will be even easier on the dSLR body. The old film SLRs didn't have preview, couldn't show you results in almost real-time, and you couldn't change ISO at the press of a few buttons to name a few. Experiment all you want to with settings in digital, it costs you nothing and it is so forgiving. It's becoming the new "normal" to learn photography on digital first and learn on film ONLY if there is some look that you're trying to achieve that is impossible on digital. The latest and greatest dSLRs have so many menus to go through that they can discourage for those making the transition from film and/or point & shoots. The Canon Rebel XTi is the perfect bridge for people coming from a film background who don't want to invest too much in learning the latest dSLR technology. You won't regret playing with that Canon Rebel dSLR. I like to tell people new to photography that film was like driving a car with manual transmission, no power steering, and no GPS navigation. Digital SLRs like the Canon Rebel series is like driving a car with automatic transmission, cruise control, and a backup camera. Using the latest point & shoots in full auto mode (for me) feels like letting the car drive itself. My personal feeling is "Let me drive the car, I pay for the fuel and insurance. If I'm about to drive off the unseen cliff or I swerve into oncoming traffic, please don't hesitate to intercede and get me back to safety".😜
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