Alternative 4

The light on that Apache in the first shot is phenomenal.

It looks like you could build a TC-135 from this kit, is that possible?

White glue is erratic in it's adhesion. In my experience it does not adhere evenly once dried so some parts may dry and attach, but other parts do not. It's not surprising that it doesn't stick to the plastic. White glue sort of sits on the surface of both parts so it doesn't really join the parts but connects the parts. That said I still use it as I have just as much trouble with super glue.

Is the rubber o-ring between the body of the airbrush and the nozzle placed correctly as to provide a tight seal? Is there isn't a tight seal, paint wont spray. I have done this more than once. Try increasing the psi and see what happens, if fit sprays, the paint might not be thin enough for 20 psi.

That hurts dude.

Does anyone know what the raised "plates" farthest away from the camera are? They look like some kind of reinforcing plate. http://motty.hobbyvista.com/Articles/Photos/Upper-Tail-04-01.jpg Found at this excellent site: http://motty.hobbyvista.com/Articles/Emph-01.html Also it seems some hawks have them, but not all of them or they were progressively added once the aircraft were in service.

https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/air-force-orion-lands-safely-after-leaking-fluid-shutting-down-engine/2HPFE2SIKZNTTPBJGJVWNN7BKU/ Yet from the RNZAF's own website; Typical performance Radius of action of 1,850km (1,000nm) with four hours on station. Endurance of 15 hrs with two engines shut down to conserve fuel.

The scene in Independence Day where the B-2 fires the nuclear missile at the Alien Craft always annoyed me. The B-2 is far too close to the ship/blast and looks far too low to be dropping a nuclear weapon.

Ok cool, thanks. I will edit my original post to remove the incorrect information. EDIT: From reading the F-104G instruction sheet, it looks as though part D15 could be modified to represent the aft beacon.

This post provided incorrect information, corrected in the post below by Richb63. I was confusing a beacon light mod with a white formation light on the spine.

I too read that review before I started building the kit. While it may just be my modelling skills, the fit does not come close to that of a Tamiya kit and I have had to use far more filler than I would have expected and serious amounts of Tamiya tape to try and mask off detail before using filler. I am building a clean Nasa aircraft so wanted it as sleek as possible. - The inserts on the underside require careful fitting and application of filler as they don't quite match the curve of a fuselage. I have two thoughts on this, 1: the insert parts for the G fit better than the insert

Spend $120 and you will get $20 flat shipping. Also you would get 19% off that $40 kit at the moment.

Thanks for the response, that tape does indeed look "flash". I will try Tamiya tape, since I have a ready supply.

Thanks. Would a liquid mask work well?

I just tried creating some salt wear on my Tamiya spitfire, specifically I wanted to create metal wear areas around the wing root. I used Mr Colour Silver, added salt then painted the camo. Afterwards I weathered with thinned black and thinned grey through the airbrush. Everything went fine until I flat coated the aircraft at which time the metal color faded from a bright metal to a faded grey, which doesn't have the same effect. I was quite happy with the effect until I added the final flat coat, now it doesn't seem worth the effort How does one keep the metal areas lo