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The Scaremonger

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Everything posted by The Scaremonger

  1. Not even a bit of resin aftermarket set to go with your build, Janne? Something must be awfully bad with the world these days!
  2. Thank you both Turtle & Tom. Your replies were a great help to me. Oh, no; I've got the Murdock set to convert either the Hasegawa E or Monogram J 1/48 kits to the C version. I just learnt from you that the Cutting Edge set was not accurate in order to make the conversion. I was this close of getting it, so I guess it was just my luck not to have gotten it. Cheers, fellas. Henka
  3. I wholly agree with that statement. I've known the real SuE up close and personal, so if you happened to be a kit builder, then you'd go with the Kitty Hawk kit. Otherwise, get the Kinetic kit. It's a much better kit even when it's got some fitting issues. Perhaps this is the case for a valid reason? There's something odd with the radome shape in the Kitty Hawk kit. Then again, I don't like the way Kitty Hawk molded the exhaust cone to be detachable, making it look like a lousy toy if you chose to keep it detachable, which leaves an awful trench of a seam line. Something dodgy about the height at which the wing root is installed on the fuselaje. It looks as though it were too high to me.
  4. Nah, Berkut ought to be a moderator "wannabe"? Why would anyone care whether he's bothered anyways? Never mind, members are able to make whatever questions they pleased. If he's bothered, that's his problem, you know.
  5. Tom! Thanks once again. Yes, I meant my other right on the picture. Well, okay; it's just the Cutting Edge instructions sheet says they're deflectors. First pic you posted make everything clear to me now. So the rocket pack opened in an opposite way than the speedbrake; I was not able to fathom how in hell the rockets were released otherwise. Second pic you posted made me make up my mind about doing an E version instead. The two pieces on the left of the picture I posted above (which Cutting Edge call "deflectors"), look nothing like the real thing in any case. One last question and I'm off your back; what angle does the airbrake generally reach after engine shutdown, when the aircraft is parked on the ground? I heard it can reach down until the ground stops it. Cheers Tom! Henka
  6. I agree, Chris. My point is that it was quite silly from Berkut to have compared a picture of the real thing against that of a CAD rendering in order to affirm that there was an issue with the new kit's spine and S-shape. I bet he doesn't even owns the 1/48 Aviation Art/Kinetic Su-33 kit. I think that the only way to accurately tell whether or not there's an issue with the spine is by doing what I'm doing right now with the Hobby Boss J-11 kit; I've chopped the fuselage in transversal cuts, like in the plans you posted above, from the windshield aft, to where the spine meets the engine fairings. Then again, although there's some differences between the kit and the plans I've got - mostly where the S-shape way behind the cockpit is evident in the real thing - I don't know whether anyone could trust 1/48 plans. Tell me, have you got more reliable plans for the Su-27 to spare?
  7. Hi, Tom! Thanks a lot for your reply. Yes, the deflectors are a separate part, on the right in the picture. I'm doing the C version, so the deflectors are to be inside the bay. My question was aimed at learning how the deflectors worked when they had to perform their task. I certainly didn't know that the Crusaders could carry rockets; I thought it could be more like JATOs, to be honest with you. Cheers, Henka
  8. Are you joking me? Tanmodel have also announced a 1/48th scale SR-71 which I'm eagerly looking forward to its releasement. How many markings/schemes and operators did the Sled have...? Well, sure you are able to realise that the angle at which the picture of the real thing was taken is quite different that that in the CAD rendering, don't you?
  9. Rob, I don't know about the 1/72 Cobra Company set, but you could always take a good chunk out of the 1/48 Cutting Edge bit if you sold it on evilBay, like $70 or so.
  10. What are the rocket exhaust deflectors used for inside the speedbrake bay on the F-8? I just received the Cutting Edge set CEC48434, and I haven't got a faintest clue what they're for.
  11. Brass tubing as well...? Nice! I should try those. Mine where a tad wobbly when I attempted cutting brass tubing. Last time I bought at UMM, John sent me the CMK spare blades I'm asking you about. Saw that now he's got ones which read Tiger on them.
  12. Calum, mate! Howdy? Thanks, I'm ordering a JLC handle on UMM. Do you know how the JLC spare blades fare against the CMK ones? I hear the latter are a tad harder than the former. Cheers C! H
  13. Thanks, British Storm! I'm asking a relative who's travelling in Cali to run an errand for me, so I need to know how Future is known up there. Also, I've learnt that the stuff is not flammable, so I'd also need the bottle's aprox. dimensions so as to purchase an airtight container for her to keep the bottle inside her luggage.
  14. Fed up with my CMK holder; it's made of plastic and only holds the razor blade on one point. Was checking the UMM-USA page and saw the JLC holder looks way much stronger. Was wondering whether the JLC holder will work with the collection of CMK blades that I've still got left; lots of them. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Hennie
  15. Uwe, I've build the Revell kit, and I've added a whole plethora of aftermarket sets to it: I've bought Hypersonic Models' exhaust, which are a must. Clickie there! I've also gotten the Verlinden Upgrade set from someone who didn't know what he got; he sold it to me for 5 quid! Added the Paragon Flap and Slat set and the DMold seamless suckers.
  16. That's an awesome build. My mate in Hong Kong, the one who's grafting the Ciro Models #410 set onto the new KH kit, has also got the KoPro kit; he says that using the new Kitty Hawk kit as a template, it would be possible to fix the issue with the KoPro forward fuselage. The fixing involves a cut behind the cockpit bulkhead, or something like that. Hope to have the pictures in order to share them with those of you truly interested.
  17. Well, there's an Asian modelling mate who happens to be grafting the Ciro Model set #410 to the new kit as we speak. Will ask him for pictures, but if you cared to surf the web for a while, you might learn what the area of concern with the old kit was, which is ahead of the new kit's, as far as I was told; here: I myself use to concur on the idea that just because a set reads "to fit an specific kit", that doesn't mean that it cannot make to fit just any other similar kit in the very same scale, that is. Nice castings those Ciro Models ones. Cheers, Henka
  18. Actually, the set #410 by Ciro Models will fit the new Kitty Hawk kit like a glove. Were I you, I'd get one set ASAP! Laurent, what is the new KH kit wing glove's width compared to the old Smer/KoPro kit like? Is it narrower than the latter or is it the same? One thing I could never live with on the KP kit. Overwhelmed by the beauty of this pic! Henka
  19. I just sold my KP kit + the Cutting Edge flap/slat/exterior and nozzle sets for $140...
  20. Cancel my order! Cancel my order...!!! *toggles frantically on the delete key*
  21. Is Future the brand name for the product in California? I've heard the floor polish brand name changes according to the city you're in, like it's Klear, or Pledge or something else? Also, would it be safe as checked baggage on an airliner or will it be considered inflammable? Thanks, H
  22. Beware the angle at which you sharpen your X-acto blades; I never went wrong with this clever gadget. Blade sharpener saddle
  23. Yes, I concur; a Tamiya Tomcat with deployed flaps and slats is a MUST! I'm ordering a couple sets. Quantity in stock: 33 and going down
  24. Looks good! When is the release date expected to take place? Will have to sell my KP kit and CE bits on evilBay.
  25. Use a caliper to gauge the extension that you need to stretch the clear section to fit properly. Then score the edge of either the front or rear side of the clear part with a felt tip marker and stamp it on a piece of paper. That way you'll get both the length you need to stretch your clear part and also, you will have the shape of the part you need to make a wire rib in order to stretch it to that proper length. You can make a wire rib for both the rear and the front edge of your clear part, and glue them inside of the part in question (on each frame of the clear part). This way not only will the clear part hold its form, but also, it will be hardly visible when painted black.
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