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About Tato

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  • Birthday 10/08/1986

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    All aircraft related.

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  1. Looking at the F-16 Group Build, I would really love to have updated decals for de ADF versions. There are a lot of cool looking versions!
  2. You could try adding the Aires cockpit design for the Kinetic/Italeri kit. I've built both and the kits are nearly identical, given that the Kinetic kit is a "copy" of the Monogram kit. They even share the same fit problems. As already mentioned, AMS resin has a bunch of upgrades but they have been out of production for a long time and are difficult to come by. Also Eduard has some PE for the cockpit and speed brakes made for the Kinetic kit, but they should fit without any problems in the Monogram one. And finally, Quickboost has a resin ejection seat. Tat
  3. Thank you guys! I see there are a lot of hobby shops around. Plenty of time to visit them until my classes start! Tato
  4. Hi guys! I recently moved to Boston. Are there any hobby shops around here? Thanks! Tato
  5. Hi Janissary, Thanks! I too use Testors Dull Coat, by far the best flat coat available. But I always used it as a final coat. Have you ever had problems with using oils over Testors Dull Coat? I may try this. Thanks Chuck for you answer. I do exactly the same as you describe, but lately I have been reading and watching lot of youtube videos where people use oils over flat coats (not for washes, but for general dirt and wear). May be that's my mistake, I should do it over a gloss coat as acrylics coats are not that great. Thanks all! Reg
  6. Be aware of the Airfix kit. I read that some people got the kit with the cheyenne tail turret badly undersize. Could have been an early batch production, but I'm not sure. Regards, Tato
  7. Hi Janissay, Thanks for your answer. I'm too starting to believe that the problem is wit the AK Flat Coat. Now has started to peel, so yes, that's the culprit. May I ask what do you use as a flat coat? Thanks a lot! Regards, Tato
  8. Hi TrietCam, Thanks for your answer. You nearly nailed it. I did not use Future and the pin panel line wash was done after the second gloss coat. My problem starts when trying to use oils for weathering. From what I have read and understand (Ammo Mig Weathering magazines and some other books), oils work better with a flat coat (acrylic). I did it like that and that's when I started having problems. Could it be that may be I'm not letting the coats dry enough? 24 hours seems a reasonable time to let it dry. Thanks! Regards, Tato
  9. Hi Janissary, Thanks for your answer. To answer your questions: 1.- Yes, I always use primer before painting. 2.- For oils I'm using AK Mineral Spirits 3.- After each clear coat I wait at least 24 hours. In fact before I used oils, the model was at least untouched for 2 or 3 days, as I was unable to do any modeling. I have Future and did try to spray it on the model but couldn't get a uniform clear coat, so I put another coat of Tamiya X-22 with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Maybe that was the problem? After setting all the decals I gave another coat of Tamiya X-22 and wait
  10. Hi Chuck, Thanks for your answer. My problems is that it seems that oils and enamel washes (like AMMO Mig or AK) are doing some kind of reaction with my arylic coats. From what I understand there souldn't be any kind of reaction as acrylic coats are very hard and take well enamles and oils. Right now I'm using AK 3rd generation acrylic coats, and still I'm having problems. I'm kind of lost, as it seems that this works for everyone except for me. Regards, Tato
  11. One more vote for Spraygunner. They carry a lot of items and cheap too. Also, their service is awesome! Regards, Tato
  12. Hi guys! First, hope everyone is doing well and safe! Second, it seems that I need a little help with clear coats. My main paints are MRP Lacquer paints and AK lacquer paints. From time to time I also use Tamiya acrylic colors. From what I understand, if you put an acrylic clear coat (gloss or flat) over those type of paints, there should be no problem or reaction between them. Also, you can use oils or enamels base products over this clear coats. Am I right? I'm having a really hard time not having problems with clear coats. I have always wanted to use oils
  13. Hi USAFsparkchaser, To clean my airbrush, I always use the same thinner that I use for painting or clear coats. Like you, I also use Tamiya X22 with MLT, so in my case, I would use MLT. Works wonders. My procedure, is exactly the same as on this video (except for the use of the Ultimate Airbrush Cleaner): For a more thorough cleaning, I would do the same, plus disassembling the airbrush. Hope this helps. Cheers, Tato
  14. Hi Robert, What is your budget? Last year I bought a Sparmax TC-610. I has a 2,5 liter tank and is pretty quiet. I use it with my wife in the room next door and she can't hear it. I'm pretty happy with it. There are tons of review videos in youtube if you are interested. Here's a link to one. It's a UK base shop, but you can also find it in the US. It's the same as mine: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Sparmax-TC-610H-Airbrush-Compressor.html#SID=2025 Hope it helps. Regards, Tato
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