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galileo1

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Everything posted by galileo1

  1. Thanks VERY much gens. PMs have been sent! Car forums sure sound like a good idea! Rob
  2. Kind of an odd request but I'm looking to get some colored sprues from kits you've finished or just have laying around the bench. I have a project in mind I'd like to get moving but I don't have anything besides the typical grey stuff. Specifically, I'm looking for anything black, red, orange, and the like. Let me know if you have anything like this and are willing to part with it. Thanks! Rob
  3. Thanks very much, Bill. I need it mainly for repair work as I don't like to use other fillers on resin parts. Will look for it online as I don't have a Hobby Lobby nowhere near me. Rob
  4. Thanks very much, guys. That M5T glue and debonder were the ones I've heard about. Thanks for the link, Anthony. That Krazy glue sounds very interesting. Will try to find it and see how it works. The gorilla glue worked okay for me but it got really thick in a shorter period of time than other CAs I've used. Rob
  5. Thank you very much for the answers, Saul! I went ahead and ordered it to see how it works. I didn't buy the accelerator as I do have the one that smells like roach spray (Bob Smith Industries). My use for CA is to glue PE to resin (no stress) and resin to plastic. I do also use CA for covering scribing mishaps. I do use Gator Grip to join larger parts that may need a bit more time to position correctly. I appreciate the helpful tip about the Q-tip. I have specialized CA applicator tools I use but I've got to say I'm intrigued by the Q-tip. I'll give it a go as soon a receive the Dr.
  6. Bill, can I ask what type/brand of resin your're using? I need to cast some parts myself but have no clue where to get the resin. Thanks! Rob
  7. Thanks all very much for the responses. Saul. How did you find this Dr. Mike's CA regarding the use of accelerators? Can I use any accelerator with it? Also, how long does it take to dry when using to attach PE, for example. Thanks very much for the link. Rob
  8. Trying to find a good CA glue. Haven't had much luck with Zap-a-gap or the Gorilla stuff. They become useless in the bottle way too quickly for my liking. Is there anything else out there I could get that lasts a little longer and is good overall at the same time? Thanks! Rob
  9. Man, that's almost on par with what I paid for the AMK MiG-31. A bit too steep IMO. Will have to think about this one. Rob
  10. I HATE Aires but yet I used them in almost every build! That should tell you something... Rob
  11. Thank you very much, Mike! Very good information. I guess I could always buy resin myself and make a small batch to use for repairs. Rob
  12. I need fill a gap on a resin piece that broke off from a bigger piece and was wondering if I could melt a piece of resin block to use as filler. Rather not use CA or other fillers as the part is somewhat delicate. If it is possible, how do I go about doing it? Thanks for the feedback. Rob
  13. I have the Hasegawa kit with these markings and I believe you can build it with folded wings but you'll have to cut them yourself. I can confirm tomorrow if you want. Rob
  14. Wouldn't mind getting this one. Rob
  15. Excellent news! Still kicking myself for selling the first edition. Rob
  16. This would be a perfect time (if I were in the same situation) where I would try to vac-form one myself. Perfect timing for practicing. Use the cracked canopy as the master and go from there. What kit is the canopy for anyway? Have to tried asking on the forums if someone has a spare one? Rob
  17. The issue with applying decal solvents (not just Microsol) over Future is why I stopped using it to prep for decaling. I now use Alclad's Aqua Gloss without any issues. Curing time is a lot faster as well. I still use Future here in there for other modeling things but not for decaling. Rob
  18. I have found nothing better than these Alec scribers. They are super thin and scribe beautifully and thinly. Perfect for removing control surfaces. I do also use the CMK-style razor saws in combination with the Alec scribers. Rob
  19. Chuck, if I may ask...How much did it set you back to go from the .23 mm setup on your Micron to the .18 mm. I'm thinking about doing the same with my CM-C Plus. Thanks! Rob
  20. How many individual jets can one build from this sheet? Just curious.. Thanks! Rob
  21. Good start for sure! Dump photobucket and try imgur. Much better and faster. Looking forward to more pics! Rob
  22. My preferred acrylics are Tamiya, Gunze Aqueous, Akan, LifeColor, Vallejo Model Color, and Citadel (Games Workshop). I have some stock of each of these and use them all on almost every build. I don't touch the Vallejo Model Air as I just can't get along with them. I had some and sold them all off! In my experience - regarding the hairline cracks with Gunze Aqueous, it happens if they aren't allow to fully cure. I had the same issue with them cracking when I hand painted some Vallejo Model Color over them (some cockpit detail). Once I let the paint fully cure, I had no more issues (even
  23. I haven't personally used these but I have seen (video builds) people use both Tamiya X-20A and Vallejo thinners with it. Like the AMMO line of paints, AK recommends their own thinner for optimum results though. Based on what I've seen, the do dry in the tip but, honestly, that's goes for almost all acrylic paints. Rob
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