Yuri

Ok, here's a scan comparison based on Arkhiv-Press drawings In blue the P wings and in red the RB ones. Tried to match the fuselage panel lines at my best. Seems both set of wings start in the same place at the leading edge root, but as the R has a bigger chord, the trailing edge is moved back somewhat.

Jim and musangpulut, of course... when I find where I put them! Only found the sheet with the underside view and side views (of both P and RB), but couldn't find the one with the top view.... I'll try to scan both to show (in different colors) the different sizes... even if it's only the underside, so you can't see things like fences and so on.

Rob, if it can be of any use, I have a copy of the Aviatsya y Vremia Ukrainian magazine that has a scan of a newspaper reporting the Belenko incident (with photos of the MiG) and other info on the MiG-25 (but wrong drawings). I'm in train right now (ah, the magic of internet-key... now I can work while on the way to the office with no one bothering me ) so I'll check when I'm back. To aswer Jim Barr, well. I don't know. There is a noticeable chord difference between the MiG-25P/PD and R/RB. Also the leading edge on the P/PD is kinked, the sweep angle changes at the wing fence. Assuming my dr

Uh, well, no. Not exactly at least... Can't find where I put my drawings, so can't check right now, but if I remember correctly (and if the drawings are accurate), the Condor wings were good for a P/PD. RB wings should be shorter, true, but if you look at the photo, you'll see that you have to remove some plastic at the root of the Hasegawa wings. As you can see they are spot on in chord (RB wings have a bigger chord than P/PD), not in span

Thanks for the headache :) By the way, if you get the RB-36 do you still have all the parts to make the bomber version or is there something different?

Cameras used during the gunpack testing Anyway, why bother with detail sets for the 1/48 monogram kit? We really need a new 1/72 kit (and/or a bunch of resin detail sets). I have a bazillion decals for the six but turning the Hasegawa into a decent model requires too much work. I only have an unfinished one, that maybe someday I'll finish, but I'll never find the time to make a dozen or so 106s starting from the Hasegawa kit to use those wonderful decals...

Well, if you read the datasheet it contains quite harmful stuff (benzene, toluene and so on), but also Squadron and most other putties. Most of the "problem" relies on the quantity. Usually in our hobby we use very small quantities (auto-repairs are a completely different thing and they should really wear protection considering how much stuff they use). Personally I'd use some safety measure to avoid getting too much of this stuff inside my body: use in a well ventilated area, don't eat, drink, smoke and so on while filling and sanding, wash hands afterwards, and wet sand to avoid breathing t

Took a look at 3m catalog, but seems that in Italy they sell only the Green and Red acryl, not the Blue. What's the difference?

YEAH! Good idea. ME TOOOOO!!! Btw, Ken you should really write a new one, even if with all the kits that came out in the last few years it would be an encyclopedia...

The main issue about mines is that they are really cheap to make and use... but then it's really difficult and costly to get rid of them after a war. So they are a serious risk for civilians even years after a war has ended.

Well, can't wait for the Backfire... I'm one of the few that prefers the m2 over the m3 (I don't like the "bent" nose of the m3). Dunno what they'll do, but after all I think you can make molds for both m2 and m3 without having to change so many parts: I don't think the fuselage in the m3 is bigger (in fact the m3 engines were tested on a modified m2, still with the phantom-like intakes) and the wings are the same (only the wing gloves are a little different). Also not all m2 are alike: there are early and late production ones with many differences (wings, rudder and the area around the noz

There are other smaller changes: the wingtips, the slats (different number of sections don't remember if 4 or 5) and some aerials: early 9.12 had the "odd rods" IFF aerials on top and below the fuselage; late 9.12 and all 9.13 have instead a blade-style antenna under the nose (and sometimes retain the odd rods on top). Also the 9.13 can use the AA-12 Adder missile and wing fuel tanks, the 9.12 can't. All the other changes are internal. The spine itself isn't a 100% accurate difference between 9.12 and 9.13 because it can be fitted also to earlier 9.12 (along with other updates such as the abi

I just wonder how many polish lessons you need to say "rzeczpospolita" without having to buy some extra vowels :D

Authentic Decals has a couple of sheets

ICM for a MiG-29S (Fulcrum-C) and Italeri for the "A". They are the only real choices. In fact seems the new ICM Fulcrum C is based on the Italeri kit, but they improved some things where Italeri mold-makers did some mistakes (missiles & rails for example). So the ICM kit could even be used as a source of spare parts to make a more accurate Italeri 9-12 And if you are looking aftermarket parts there's a lot of stuff... From memory: Resin cockpit Neomega (and Pavla copy) Aires Neomega fits like a glove, but it's not so accurate. Aires looks beautiful but it's a nightmare to make it fi

Uhm, I'll be 83 in 2057... dunno if I can still build the Backfire... (maybe I'll have to ask my nurse to do it for me :P)

Does anybody know the Tu-22m2 release date?

Only one thing... test it BEFORE on a scrap model... If you painted you model with Tamiya there shouldn't be any problem (at least I think, but try it), Gunze instead will most probably crack under Future

Aerospace Defence Command. It was the branch of the US Air Force that had to protect the United States airspace... ADC grey (FS-16473) was the color they used on planes such as the F-101, F-102 and F-106...

Rook, crow, raven, they all are blackbirds :) Anyway, yes, it is a grach (or rook). Seems the name came out during the afgan war, because as the Su-25 operated in the close air support missions the ground troops compared it to the grach, that protects his children with the wings.... A number of afgan Su-25 started to sport a grach nose (or fuselage) art. The talibans instead called it "the german product", because unlike most of the soviet stuff it was realiable and sturdy... so it couldn't be soviet-made

I love Dark Blue World... so sad and sweet Btw, also loved the tune... You know.... "Hitler has only got one ball Goering has two but very small..." If you want to see the trailer...

Already have a couple of Fulcrums built (and maybe I'll start another as soon as my "factory" resumes work, as I'm currently on hiatus) and I use something more grey: FS 36375. It just has a slight bluish hue that turns out nice with a flat black wash. Others prefer a more bluish color, but think 36375 is much closer to the real thing.

What I hate about Trumpeter Tu-160 is some unwanted "features". Ken reported the open auxiliary intakes (that should be closed if you want to depict a parked Blackjack). The other are dropped flaps: ok, nice feature, but they are usually raised on parked Tu-160s, so a lot of work is needed to glue all those parts in the up position. Considering the cost of the kit they could have provided a spare set of wings...

Nice model, even if... maybe it's the silver paint that makes them stand out... but aren't the rivets a bit overdone on the Trumpeter kit?

Well, I think Rob is more or less right. The color should be something close to light ghost (or compass) grey (FS 36375). Anyway bear in mind that the colors on russian planes tend to fade quickly because of the harsh weather (an so-so paintjob maintenance): this color turns more chalky with time, so you can even use a lighter gray (even close to light gull grey, FS 36440). Btw, in the federal standard system, the first number means gloss (1) satin (2) or flat (3), the second is the main color (6 is for grey) and the last 3 digits mean how light or dark it is (the higher the number, the light