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A-1 or P-51?


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Flip a coin. Both are great kits. However, since the A-1 flew in Gull Gray and White, it does move a little higher on the desirability list for me… :sunrevolves:

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I'm really split here. I love both airplanes. The P-51 is a legend and every collection should have one (I've built them for friends but did not keep any). The Sandy is a legend also. It looks sexy and very interesting. Its not done as often which appeals to me. But, I still have not figured out how to paint white... The last kit I ruined (Academy F-8) by coating up the white too thick making me not want to try it again but on the other hand I want to nut up and figure it out. Choices........

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How can you not build something that could carry the bombload of a B-17 and take off from a carrier. A-1/AD all the way. Besides it dwarfs the P-51, it is over 25% larger than the P-51.

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How were you painting the white on your models? If you're using either Spray Cans or and Airbrush, Paint schemes don't get a lot easier to do than Light Gull Gray and White, all you've got to do is practice your control surface masking skills.

Don't listen to them telling you to do the USAF version, Light Gull Gray and White is the only way to fly… :whistle: (Lots of flight time on P-3s in that scheme).

Edited by DonSS3
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How were you painting the white on your models? If you're using either Spray Cans or and Airbrush, Paint schemes don't get a lot easier to do than Light Gull Gray and White, all you've got to do is practice your control surface masking skills.

Don't listen to them telling you to do the USAF version, Light Gull Gray and White is the only way to fly… :whistle: (Lots of flight time on P-3s in that scheme).

I first tried an airbrush (no primer) using Testor enamel flat white with varying degrees of thinning. Then rattle can enamel flat white (random brand). Every time I have done it has been over un-primed light gray plastic. The problem I have is that the white does not become opaque. I remains transparent coat after coat until most detail is lost. Its really really frustrating. Should I get the A-1 it will be a navy bird. I'm just timid about spending that kind of money on a great kit and being let down because I can't make white work. Painting the F-8 was super easy as far as maksking goes even the upper flaps and rudder were no trouble. I really don't know where to go from here.

BTW the Navy AO liaison here at Nellis is a retired Enlisted P-3 guy. Gary (I think) Downing.

Edited by Doughboy
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I first tried an airbrush (no primer) using Testor enamel flat white with varying degrees of thinning. Then rattle can enamel flat white (random brand). Every time I have done it has been over un-primed light gray plastic. The problem I have is that the white does not become opaque. I remains transparent coat after coat until most detail is lost. Its really really frustrating. Should I get the A-1 it will be a navy bird. I'm just timid about spending that kind of money on a great kit and being let down because I can't make white work. Painting the F-8 was super easy as far as maksking goes even the upper flaps and rudder were no trouble. I really don't know where to go from here.

BTW the Navy AO liaison here at Nellis is a retired Enlisted P-3 guy. Gary (I think) Downing.

I'm not gonna advise you on which kit to build -- hope you get to both at some point -- but will point out that the P-51 will involve NMF, which could be as much hassle as painting white. Speaking of painting white, I highly recommend Krylon spray enamel, decanted and airbrushed. I buy the Fusion line, which is designed to work well on plastic. It comes in gloss and satin; I generally use gloss but either is good. It covers very well, dries fast, doesn't yellow, and you don't have to thin it. FWIW, I'd also recommend priming before applying the white. I use Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200, thinned with lacquer thinner or Mr. Color's proprietary thinner.

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I'm thinking I'm going to have to start priming. I've been lazy and have tried to get by without doing so. I'll give they Krylon a try when I use up the Tamiya Flat is just bought. I've never tried anything decanted though... Can you thin Mr Surfacer with rubbing alcohol? That is how I get 500 off my brushes.

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I'm thinking I'm going to have to start priming. I've been lazy and have tried to get by without doing so.

You really do need to prime when painting white or yellow.

You don't have to use an actual primer though. Just put down a base coat of your favorite brand of light gray paint.

Also use flat white, not gloss white. It covers much better. You can gloss it with a clear coat later.

Edited by dmk0210
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You really do need to prime when painting white or yellow.

You don't have to use an actual primer though. Just put down a base coat of your favorite brand of light gray paint.

Also use flat white, not gloss white. It covers much better. You can gloss it with a clear coat later.

Roger that. There is no way I'm doing gloss white anymore. I dont like that voodoo.

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I'm thinking I'm going to have to start priming. I've been lazy and have tried to get by without doing so. I'll give they Krylon a try when I use up the Tamiya Flat is just bought. I've never tried anything decanted though... Can you thin Mr Surfacer with rubbing alcohol? That is how I get 500 off my brushes.

I've never tried alcohol to thin Mr. Surfacer. All I know is, lacquer thinner and Mr. Color thinner both work fine. As for others' comments about the evils of gloss white, I stand by my recommendation of Krylon, either satin or gloss, as being extremely easy to apply with good coverage. Decanting it is pretty simple -- just spray some into a throw-away plastic cup, pour it into a bottle, let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes to let the propellant dissipate, and you're ready to go.

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I dont know what other people have said about gloss colors I was speaking from personal dislike from experience. I dont like spraying gloss in general. I always manage to mess up the surface with its longer drying times. Quicker dry=Less time for me to smudge it or mess it up otherwise!

I found out about the alcohol from trying to clean off 500 from my brushes. I tried paint thinner with negative results. Then water same thing. The only other thing I had at the time was rubbing alcohol. That worked fine!

As you can probably tell most of what I know comes from trial an error. I've only recently got on this forum and started picking brains. I found out its good to learn from other peoples knowledge on my car forum (probably saved me a motor) and thought I'd give this a shot! Thanks to everyone for the advice!!! Looks like I'll pick up the Spad.

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I use 90% alcohol on a Q-tip or similar to wipe excess Mr. Surfacer off flush with a seam. It works great and doesn't eat into the plastic like lacquer thinner does.

I probably use alcohol to clean it off my brushes and tools, I never really thought about it. I know lacquer thinner works for this too.

Edited by dmk0210
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Another vote for the A-1, but I'd say backdate the Tamiya kit and do an overall sea blue bird. Something about that late 40's early 50's sea blue scheme always strikes a chord with me.

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You could use a white primer, like the Tamiya, then just a thin coat of a "finish" flat white. I did this just 45m ago on the tail planes of an E.V with MM Acryl; the color is opaque, smooth, uniform, and doesn't obscure any of the detail--very very nice!

I use lacquer thinner for all cleaning, between colors and then the final cleaning/disassembly. After disassembly, I pop the nozzle bits into a lidded jar with lacquer thinner until ready for the next use. I use the paint brand's thinner--and only their thinner--for airbrushing.

As for which plane, I agree on doing both! Both are iconic, but admittedly, only the cognescenti will recognize the A-1. My personal favorite color scheme for the Spad is white, grey, and orange, like CED48095 on this page.

If you do the Tamiya 1/48 P-51 though, understand the wheel wells need a resin upgrade. Ditto the cockpit floor on the B/C/III.

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