bashace

Kit found, thanks Dutch!

Hasegawa has a nice line of rivet tools and spacing guides, they are a bit costly and tough to source outside Japan, but are well worth it. The Mr Hobby GT70 Mr Rivet tool is also a great asset, comes with 3 different sized tips, also costly and tough to scource but worth the effort.

Coke and a smile! Get a fresh bottle of coca-cola, soak your chrome parts in overnight or so, and wallah!

I like Bob Dively liquid mask, it's a little thicker than the usual scale model mask because it's designed for Radio Contolled aircraft masking needs. It also comes in a bigger jar!

I use the medical tape for sensitive areas when I mask over decals, when pulling the tape off, pull it back over itself slowly and closely, haven't pulled a decal off yet.

I really dislike this area of modern Russian fighters, hopefully some day a decal set will be available to ease this task, or at least a mask.

I think I may have captured that on video, was a wet day if I remember correctly.

I ordered an F-16 MLU nose from Australia, it took every bit of 6 weeks to get here.

I guess you're right, any except the EF-111 will work. Not sure about the F-111E though, heard that kit had issues.

Have a bunch of F-111 resin that needs to be put to use. Sold the kit it was for some years ago, but not the AM stuff.

I'll be using different decals, wings, wheels, intakes, afterburners, and cockpit than what the kit comes with. -Ron

Would like to buy or trade for an unstarted Academy 1/48 F-111, boxing not important. Let me know what you got or trade dersires. - Ron

Iwata Neo is a great beginner airbrush, don't go too cheap, nothing ruins your airbrush learning more than a sloppy POS (cheap) airbrush. I buy good airbrushes and cheap compressors, as long as it has a pressure gauge and moisture trap on it all is good.

There are Vietnam related pages on FB, you can try to join one of them. My dad is a USAF Vietnam veteran, I was able to join the Phan Rang group that he belongs to, they have a lot of cool pics that members uploaded from their time there.

I use automotive Spot and Glazing compound for my final putty options, it doesn't shrink like other puttys and it sands much easier, plus you get a large tube of it for a reasonable cost. For large gaps, I try to fill them with thin card strips and sand to fit before final assembly of part, makes it a lot easier to trim and sand in areas that would by difficult once assembled.