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dnl42

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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Nice work! Whatever challenges you had building it, the result is quite good looking!
  2. I've never tried decanting spray paints, so I cannot comment on such techniques. Do you normally use Model Master enamels? Perhaps your technique is better tuned to different paints? By "middle of my passes", do you mean spatter starts after a while of good painting? Or, do you get spatter between the start and end of a single stroke? If the former, perhaps you're getting some paint build-up on the tip that's causing the spatter? I've learned to "burp" the airbrush every so often. This means pointing the airbrush away from the model and opening up the air and paint flow to maximum for a second to make sure there's no paint accumulation at the tip. Some airbrushes have a slot in their tail to enable the needle to be manually pulled way back, expressly for this purpose.
  3. Color me cautious. Along with being dubious of the efficacy of the compressor, its hanging off the bottom of the airbrush probably feels overly weighty and intrusive. I'd like to see documentation of "Widely used by the general model enthusiasts."
  4. Happy Birthday! I do remember Xenix. Boxes of floppies to install the thing.
  5. There are a few choices down here in La La Land. Brookhurst Hobbies in Garden Grove Military Hobbies in Orange Tony's Hobby and Toys in Baldwin Park Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair.
  6. Thanks for pointing this out! The Nature Communications article is quite interesting. This diagram in particular clearly shows the above cited points.
  7. Bravo! I would be hard pressed to identify this as 1/144!
  8. I also don't clear-coat before decals atop Mr Color or Alclad because they go on so smoothly. As for Mr Color C365, it's available from Ebay retailer animetropolis. I've used them several times for colors I couldn't find in the US.
  9. Woohoo! I've got to get me one of these!
  10. Nice!!! The C-47 is my favorite aircraft, and you've done her proud!
  11. I had a Badger 360, which could go either way. Never had use for the siphon feed. Not sure what you build, but the 1/48 models I build use surprisingly little paint, even primer coats and clear coats in an HP-TH with its 0.5mm nozzle.
  12. dnl42

    1/48 B-17 series from Hk

    Yeah, looks likely. Here are some drawings from Flying Fortress by Edward Jablonski
  13. As you thought, a "silver paint" is the typical model approach to "aluminum lacquer". The goal is to make those areas "look like paint" to contrast with the prototype's unpainted surfaces. I believe the correct name for the paint is aluminized lacquer. On an NMF P-51D, this paint was at least used in the area of the areas of the wings that were puttied and smoothed over to maintain laminar flow. Drawings of the wings are on ARC and elsewhere.
  14. Yes. I did that once, and it curdled into a nasty goop inside my airbrush. Need a full teardown to clean out...
  15. @Mstor has sage advice. I have an Iwata Power Jet Lite. Also never regretted the purchase. It replaced a tool compressor, which was quite noisy. There are other good brands of compressors, too. Make sure it has auto-start. My compressor doesn't have a tank--don't miss it for a moment--and just one hookup. I use quick-connect fittings to switch between my 2 airbrushes. Quality tools also applies to airbrushes. I really like my Iwata airbrushes, but there are other fine brands, too. As @Mstor noted, you'll spend more time fussing with poor tools rather than spending time on learning to correctly use an airbrush. That takes practice. In general, lacquer paints are the thinnest coating, enamels are thicker, and water-based acrylics are thickest. The thinner the paint, the better paint surface you'll need. Lacquers and acrylics dry quickly. Enamel paints need to cure. If you use paint that needs to be thinned, I strongly suggest you use the same brand thinner, at least to start. I use Mr Color (lacquer), Alclad (lacquer), Colourcoats (enamel), Humbrol (enamel), and Tamiya (alcohol) paints. Don't waste money using paint thinner to clean your airbrush. I can use hardware store lacquer thinner--in a gallon can--to clean the airbrush after use based on the paints I use. If you decide to use Vallejo paint, don't dare use lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush. Medea Airbrush Cleaner works just fine to clean up after Vallejo; water also work.
  16. Very cool! I remember seeing the LEM concepts in the History Center in the Plant 35 basement in Bethpage. They also had the concepts for the Shuttle, which was ultimately awarded to NAA.
  17. Hm...The P-51D instructions call out part "E2" for the canopy and "E01" for the windscreen. The F-51D instructions call out part "E03" or "E05" for the canopy and "E01" for the windscreen. Looking at the F-51D clear parts, there are canopies labeled "E02", "E03", and "E05" as well as windscreens "E01" and "E04". Assuming the P-51D instructions should have called out part "E02" instead of "E2", then the F-51D kit could work for you. HTH -- dnl
  18. I like Microscale Industries Micro Flat. It's the flattest that I've found. Thin with water to airbrush. Dries quite fast.
  19. I just looked at an X-29, it's all while. No indication of yellowing. Perhaps yellowing is more pronounced in a rattle can. I had excellent results airbrushing Testors clear lacquers. I am completely delighted with all Mr Color paints--but they demand very good airbrush technique. My 1st use was a disaster, but I've learned to spray them well now, and they're my primary paint choice by far. I'm also happy with MSI Micro Flat and Micro Satin; I do find I need to thin these with water lest they bead up.
  20. also: different vertical stabilizers, but same rudders; 2 different canopies. I can look in the F-51D box to see if the P-51D box parts are present.
  21. If you're comfortable with Dullcote, you can get bottled Testors clear lacquer in gloss, semi-gloss, and flat. Thin it with Testors lacquer thinner and you're good to go. I used to use that exclusively, but switched a couple years ago to Mr Color Clear gloss (C46) thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, Microscale Industries Micro Satin thinned with water, and Microscale Industries Micro Flat thinned with water. I thin all paint to the consistency of 1% milk (or a tad thinner), spray at 15 psi (1 atm), from about 0.25 - 2 in. I generally use a 0.5mm nozzle (Iwata HP-TH) for primer, base, metallic. and clear coats. I rely on a 0.3mm nozzle (HP-CH) for most others usages. Tamiya Flat Base (X-21) is NOT a clear-coat. You add it to a gloss color to flatten it. If you attempt to use it as a clear coat you'll get a cloudy coat. For Tamiya clear coats, use gloss (X-22), semi gloss (X-35), and flat (XF-86)
  22. 1 will look like a losing proposition as that's all everyone will see 2 could work assuming you're going to go all in on weathering the rest of the aircraft 3 is probably best, assuming Academy will oblige. I wish I had asked when I lost the canopy for a MiG-21MF. 4 get some polishing pads, to 12000 grit, and polish it out. This assumes no "frames" in the vicinity or good control of the polishing pads. This works quite well. I've removed full on seams as well as scuffs from clear parts using this approach. As you start out, it will look like it's getting worse, but patiently going to finer and finer grits will eventually result in nice clear plastic. Start with a grit just finer than what you've already used and step up to 12000 grit. With each grit, you're looking to get a uniform surface finish before you step to the next grit.
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