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David Hingtgen

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  1. Ok, I found "the rule" from Imgur: "As long as images are getting at least 1 view every 6 months, they will stick around forever. After that, your image may be removed to create more space for newer images." So, if at least twice a year, someone views the pic, it should be ok. But if it's an old thread from 2015 (or 2005!), it may have lapsed...
  2. Imgur is temporary though---don't expect that link to work a year (or 2 months) from now. They constantly "cycle" their stuff. The link may still technically work---but it'll have been assigned to a new pic that someone else uploaded. Some forums have banned Imgur for that reason---you upload a pic, but a few months later--it's been replaced with someone else's VERY not-safe-for-work photo. And yeah, my account is "locked down" too. I'm not going to go through and re-do every post on every forum I've ever made. Those posts will just "wither and die" without their pics. (Photobucket was already INSANELY slow recently--even when I built this PC brand-new with high-end stuff, it slowed to an absolute crawl trying to upload pics, I only used it when I had to---now of course, I'll never give it a single upload or visit---$400 a year just to link...)
  3. Those are not an F-16's tailplanes...
  4. If you build it gear-up and use decal windows, is there any reason to go with the Revell?
  5. Haze grey is too dark and too cool. You want a VERY pale grey, slightly warm. Coroguard? Lots of options. Most any mix of metallic+grey will be "in the ballpark". For an early 747, I'd go quite warm. Like steel or even bronze mixed with silver and grey. Pure metallic or pure grey is too extreme for coroguard.
  6. It's a very warm silver. And a "grainy grey" silver. "Titanium" is a good description, or like "very very pale champagne gold". Grey+silver+a hint of clear orange would probably come close, if you were mixing from scratch. But no simple "silver" paint will be very close at all.
  7. I found that MM acryl sticks well to MM enamel. Use a cheap flat grey MM enamel spray can as your primer, then do your actual color/camo coats in acryl on top of that.
  8. If you are doing Delta, be sure to check the fairing at the base of the vertical fin---late A340/330's have a different one (bulkier, more angled), and I know some of Delta's have it---I think actually all of theirs do. The kit is of course, the earlier version.
  9. I never knew Welsh did both early and late pylons. Which releases have which? Also---if they paid that much attention to detail, did they do with and without hump SATCOM fairings? And what about h.stab leading edge fairings?
  10. Just to bring this full circle, this is 4X-JYD, an original 707-120. With JT3C engines. Looks like a reverser cascade array to me. :)
  11. From the opening on the nacelle at the wing leading edge, it looks to have the wide fairing for the pylon, indicating a -200Adv. Is the kit a -200Adv, or will it have parts for early versions, etc?
  12. This is my main beef with so many "large" RC planes---basic shape issues. I've seen stuff that's like 1/10 or 1/20 scale, with frankly horrendous shapes that are worse than some 1/144 or 1/200 Chinese knockoffs of kits from the 60's. With that much larger a structure to work off of, you'd think they could hold to within a half-inch (actual, not scale) for the basic outline. I think a lot of them frankly get a basic 3-view line-art like this: And use that as their one and only reference.
  13. Was going to mention this, but it's already been said.
  14. Let's send him an F-15 in a MiG-25 box and see if he notices...
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