Scott Smith

From what I’ve been reading, not just the money, but model building in the states is not nearly as popular as other countries. Why manufacture here just to export the majority of your inventory? I remember being a kid in the late ‘60’s-‘70’s building models. All my friends built models at some time as a hobby. It’s all about video games now. I tried to get my kids hooked when they were younger. Each built a model, but the bug didn’t bite. Well, maybe. Not the oldest, he’s a video gamer. But my youngest, now 27 is building RC rock crawlers and other trucks. He’s not just asse

Very nice!

I’d stick with a lacquer since that what you’ve used. How smooth is the color coat? I haven’t tried AK, but my experience with Mr. Color is that it is smooth enough for decals to not silver underneath them. No need for a gloss clear first. But any of the lacquer brands will be fine. MRP, Mr. Color, etc.

With a good fan vented to the window, it will be no problem! Trust me. Just crack another window open up wind close by to eliminate negative pressure. As far as the floor around you, a good 4X8 by 3/4 ply will give a rolling chair stability and protect the floor. If you really like the garage, make it livable? Insulate the garage doors with the foam panel kit from Home Depot and install a window unit? No windows in the garage? Yea, that might be a problem.

Check out some businesses in your area that might have cardboard recycling. They might give you some before crushing them. Before I retired I had access to all kinds of various size boxes due to the electronics gear we ordered. Nice heavy boxes too. Also, there might be a box distributor in your area where you can buy bulk boxes. Just a bit of a warning though. Be prepared for sticker shock of shipping, especially if going into Canada. I was going to ship a set of G Factor landing gear in a padded envelope and it was $35. Buyer backed out. Cannot blame him either.

What paints are you using? I’ve switched over to lacquers. I’ve been using MRP clear but recently bought a quart of clear from an auto parts store and some Mr. Color flattening agent to mix my own flats and semi-gloss clears.

I’d give up modeling if I had to work in a space that small. Of course I mostly build 1/32. I’ll give you credit, it’s nicely organized.

Do you have any woodworking skills and tools? There’s a great webpage on how to build one. I used them but made it bigger. Yes, it works great to get those lacquer fumes out. I did close to what you want to do but with plywood. I have a standard window though. Just don’t forget to put the vent in the window before you start spraying. My latest build is the 39” Seaview. Would not fit! I put it on a cart and rolled the front of it into the booth as best as I could. Still did a great job of pulling the fumes out.

Thanks!

My first career was an auto paint and bodyman. I cannot tell you how many times I painted a car in a garage with a standard, non-explosion proof fan without any consequences. Yea, I was young and stupid and didn’t know better. But here I am sitting here 34 years after my last day as a bodyman . Take it as you will, but there is no way fumes from airbrushing a model across a fan will ignite. Just too much outside air mixing with it.

Tell me about it! I recently built the very old (44 years old) Hasegawa 1/32 F-16. I wanted to build it as a YF-16 until I started reading and noticing the differences. So it went on as #1 off the assembly line. I was pleasantly surprised when the decals worked as good as if they were printed yesterday. I started thinking about it when I pulled it out of the stash and remembered I’ve had it for probably 20-24 years just waiting to be built.

Find an old Revell kit.

Curt, did you read this thread? Im planning on sanding the majority of mine down on my 1/32 kits.

Tagging along for interest. I need a set of 1/32 decals for my uncles P-61 he flew in WWII. just need the name he painted on it and the red aircraft numbers.

Can’t see it on my end.