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  1. Glad to see you come back to this build; I like the work you are doing with the wing fold, brilliant idea using those hose fittings. Regarding the cannon barrels, I thought they were staggered and not flush with the edge of the wing, version dependent? I'm enjoying this build, thanks for sharing. Carlos
  2. Congratulations Steve What a beautiful build you made, that's an excellent looking model even without considering how fast you completed it. Carlos
  3. Hello Steve I'm following both of your excellent builds, wish I could make so much progress as you. Please let me know how the Gauzy agent went, recently I've attended a contest and, while lurking on the vendor tables I found both, the Zap canopy glue and the AK Gauzy, but they told me that the AK agent was more like a clear coat (similar to Future) and will not form the "film" I need it. I also made a test on another piece of plastic using a very old (like 15+ years old) Testor's canopy glue, and it made a smooth, flat and glossy film that was also harder than the Zap one (which is very flexible) but dried with a yellow tint. Thank you in advance Carlos
  4. Hello all Thank you for your encouraging words, I really appreciate them and I hope you can find this build useful or entertaining at least. The main characteristic of this bird has been quite a challenge from a modeling point of view, I’m still stuck with the wings but here is a small update. This is the wing part between the guns and the flap, most of the pictures on the web show the folding part of the gun’s cover but not from the rear area that is removable, in my case I only need to know about them to make the corresponding panel lines. Between the flap and the aileron, there is a support that serves as a hinge for the flap and also connects a rod for the balance tab in the aileron. The kit doesn’t include this detail so it was fashioned from photoetched leftovers. In order to provide mechanical rigidity, this part was sandwiched between plastic strips glued, superglued and gator glued (not taking risks here). My preferred method to replicate navigation lights is using clear sprues but in this case, I discarded it because all the fabric detail that will be lost during sanding and polishing, so I’ll need to try something new. Here is my first test, using Zap clear glue to make a film inside the hole and painted over with acrylics (not too careful as you can see), not 100% happy with the result but I’ll keep trying, maybe Microcrystal clear could be better (if I can get it). Carlos
  5. Small update Keep adding some details to the flaps. Thanks to the images by Thomaz, I’ve been able to figure out how the case chutes are, here are six of them from different angles. Looking for information, I’ve learned how the .50 works and what’s going on with the case chutes in the corsair. What you see in there is the bottom part of the .50 where the empty cases are ejected, on the base side there is a small rectangular aperture where the links are ejected. Tried to replicate most of the details but cannot find a clear view of the bottom of a working .50, the only images were of disassembled ones. That’s all for now Carlos
  6. I've read nice things about the Anycubic Photon and seeing your work here I'm tempted to get one soon; the FDM parts are made of PLA or ABS? I'm wondering which one is better in terms of compatibility with modeling materials (putty, primers, paint, glues, etc.) Carlos
  7. Very nice work MoFo What printers do you use?, the FDM parts looks very smooth, are you going to add the mast and pathways? Thank you for sharing Carlos
  8. Hello Thomaz Thank you again for your help, indeed it’ll be the 1A version so the stall strip is a must. I’ll post more pictures as soon as can and thank you also for your encouraging words. Carlos
  9. Hello TAG Many thanks for that, very helpful indeed (interesting also), somehow that information was eluding me while searching for references. Regarding the stall strip, I’m dubious if the plane I’m depicting has it or not (it would be the one on the kit box), for what I’m reading it was included for the carrier-based corsairs not necessarily for the land-based ones but I will include it. Thank you again Carlos
  10. That's an excellent job you are doing here Steve; I like both the cockpit and the engine, too bad about the resin one but your work with the kit's engine compensated for it. I remember seeing in someone's build that the Neomega cowl front was slightly smaller in diameter compared with the Tamiya's cowl, and the modeler corrected that by making a longitudinal cut to remove just a tiny amount of material and glued it back together; did you have to make some adjustment?, Your sample appears to be just fine. Carlos
  11. Thank you Elmo, Ramon, and 11bee for your encouraging words Hello again, a small update and a request for help. Going on with more work on the wings, the machine guns tubes are represented on the kit as empty holes on the wing’s leading edge; to improve this detail first thought of putting plastic tubes between the leading edge and a pair of styrene pieces glued in place to provide both, a place to rest the tubes on and to keep them aligned. A notch was carved inside the edge so the tube ends could be flat. After some more thinking it seems a better idea to close the wing and widen the holes to insert the tubes all the way through, it would be easier to clean up and will maintain the front perfectly round on the inside, let’s hope it works. Another detail worth improving are the windows for the gun cameras (or whatever they are), they are represented only as an engraved detail but I don’t think they will look good only by painting them silver; the detail was removed and a piece of clear sprue was glued in instead. Under the right wing, the three navigation lights are represented with a dome form but on the real bird they are flat to the surface so they were drilled out, I don’t decide how they will be detailed, either using clear styrene or some kind of clear filler. The formation lights on top of the wings will receive the same treatment. Back to the flaps, The closure plates, between the inboard and outboard flaps, were removed, a new one was made from styrene sheet, this would provide a closer representation and also help to add rigidity to the group. Now a request for help; I need to find information about what’s inside the gun cameras windows (or whatever they are), in some pictures they appear to be something like a square lens and in others could be landing lights; the left and right windows aren’t symmetrical so I suppose the interior is different. Also, I would like to know how the spent shells chutes are, what you can see if looking directly into them? because in the kit they are only empty holes. I’m sure you are thinking it doesn’t matter in this scale but, you know…... AMS. Carlos
  12. Hello all I found this today on my newsfeed; talking about scaring people away from adopting new technology. Link BTW, I didn't know microsoft had an ebook store Carlos
  13. Thank you John for your kind comment Hello all, Just a small update Before going ahead with the rest of the wings I want to solve the attachment points of the flaps; since the original fixing points were removed is critical to figure out how they will be secured, just in case some work inside the wings is needed before closing them. The inner flap (next to the fuselage) proved to be challenging, if it was aligned parallel to the wing then the hinge arm that connects with the fuselage doesn’t match the place where references show it should be. Only after examining several pictures from different angles it seemed to me that the flap it’s not parallel to the wing when extended, it sits lower and further back on the fuselage’s side. Here are the pictures of the dry fitted flaps to test this arrangement, it’s not 100% accurate but now I can move forward with the build. As always, comments and critiques are welcomed Carlos
  14. Relevant indeed, I hope it gets solved soon 🤞
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