cruiz

Thanks Gabor I'll be following your updates. Right now, I have two AMK kits and some accessories (the Rob-Taurus ones are on their way). I'm hoping for someone to make resin engines and gearboxes, and I would probably have to scratch-build the external supports for the Mexican version, which are unique to them and look nice with Western rocket launchers and machine guns.

That's interesting; I wonder what the resin parts would be: a more detailed replacement of the kit's parts or extra ones specific to the operators?

Your work is stunning. You captured the complexity of all that plumbing. I'm looking forward to the paint job, which will make all that detail pop. Which flexible resin did you use? I think it could be suitable for ammo belts. Thanks for sharing.

Hello Dai I concur with Bob about the first issue; you may have some clog somewhere in the air passage. About the second, I had something similar. The problem was that the air valve mechanism was loose, and the spring that closed the valve wasn't exerting force. There was a nut at the base of the valve (where the hose connects) to regulate the tensioning. Hope this help

I'm a noob regarding 3D printing, but these are some considerations to the best of my understanding. Most recent models of resin 3D printers, known as SLA printers, will be adequate. Of these printers, there are two main characteristics to consider: The printing volume will dictate the maximum model size allowed and the number of pieces you can print in one go; the bigger, the better. The resolution is mainly associated with the quality of printing; this one is tricky because manufacturers advertise the same way as displays (2K, 4K ... 12K), but

I highly recommend it. Recently, I inaugurated my printer with them, and I could print on the first try (the models come pre-supported); the models I have also include a PDF file for the decals. You need a 3D printer, but these days, there are several budget options if you want to get one, or it isn't rare to find a printing service locally. They recently published my models on their Facebook page; both are built using only what is included in the files without ad-ons or modifications.

Great news, hopefully, Kinetic's equivalents will follow.

Excellent job; the chosen scheme is very interesting and eye-catching, to say the least; the finish you achieved is on par with the outstanding construction. Congratulations, and thanks for sharing the end result and the progress; it was inspirational and teaching. Regards

That wouldn't be fair; I almost finished to buy all the crap available to detail mine😅. On a serious note, that would be a great idea, and as you say, a base kit could also serve for the PaveLow and Yasur variants with some extra parts.

Sorry, I didn't clarify; I put them in plastic boxes the same way I transport them to the contest; with adequate care, I can fit a few models in each box; the boxes are along my stash. I understood it was an exhibition space issue, not a general storage space, but I could be wrong.

Do what museums do: store away some of the models and make your temporary exhibitions, a WWII one for some months, then change to jets or NMFs; keep things interesting and fresh.

Amazing work

Great work; I've been following the build; the wear of the finish and the oil-can effect make it unique. Congratulations, and thanks for sharing your work.

I consider myself a committed 1/48 airplane modeler, but I do make 1/72 whenever I want to try something new in a short time without worrying if I succeed; 1/72 helped me switch to acrylics, airbrushing free-hand cammo, honing my scratch building, and most importantly, coming back to modeling after a hiatus. Also, since I want to try my hand at ship models in the near future, I choose the 1/350 scale because, oddly, in my mind, it is the equivalent of 1/48 for ships so to maintain consistency.

For the last version (AV-8B / GR.7), Hasegawa is the only one available, reboxed by Revell and Eduard; it seems to be the usual Hase detail and fit; be aware of an old Monogram AV-8B, which is a different kit than those. For the early ones, the best option (in my opinion) is the Kinetic one; they have all the family (Harrier, Sea Harrier, and AV-8A). From what I have read, the GOLD editions have a better fit overall than the regular ones.