cruiz

I sand the PE with coarse (400) sandpaper to give the cyano some texture, which helps it adhere.

Hello, Dai I'm following your progress on this issue; I plan to use the X-treme metallics on a future project, so I'm taking some considerations beforehand that might be useful to you. These are enamel paints and might take days to fully cure, depending on application and ambient factors. I consider enamel paints somewhat "hot," so any underlying coat should be fully cured to prevent it from reacting with it. Enamels could adhere well to bare plastic, eliminating, in some cases, the need for a primer and taking advantage of a well-polished surface to mini

This is an interesting topic. Just yesterday, I saw a profile of a Short Stirling with invasion stripes. I didn't know they were used as glider tugs.

Great news I have the Rob Taurus glazing; it looks pretty decent, but I can't talk about the fitting. I'm waiting for an engine/gear-casing detail set. It's a long shot, I know, but maybe Brassin will surprise us.

It could be, as you say, Tank; I believe I brought both Kinetic's and KittyHawk's Super Etendards a few years ago. Currently waiting for Isracast's new rotorhead.

I'm not from Barcelona, but I was there last year. My favorite place was Casa Batlló. I recommend buying tickets in advance to get a time slot that is better suited to your schedule.

Marvelous! You are doing a great job sculpting a masterpiece from that resin chunk. The engine fooled me as a pic of the real one.

Wow, just wow!

Thanks Gabor I'll be following your updates. Right now, I have two AMK kits and some accessories (the Rob-Taurus ones are on their way). I'm hoping for someone to make resin engines and gearboxes, and I would probably have to scratch-build the external supports for the Mexican version, which are unique to them and look nice with Western rocket launchers and machine guns.

That's interesting; I wonder what the resin parts would be: a more detailed replacement of the kit's parts or extra ones specific to the operators?

Your work is stunning. You captured the complexity of all that plumbing. I'm looking forward to the paint job, which will make all that detail pop. Which flexible resin did you use? I think it could be suitable for ammo belts. Thanks for sharing.

Hello Dai I concur with Bob about the first issue; you may have some clog somewhere in the air passage. About the second, I had something similar. The problem was that the air valve mechanism was loose, and the spring that closed the valve wasn't exerting force. There was a nut at the base of the valve (where the hose connects) to regulate the tensioning. Hope this help

I'm a noob regarding 3D printing, but these are some considerations to the best of my understanding. Most recent models of resin 3D printers, known as SLA printers, will be adequate. Of these printers, there are two main characteristics to consider: The printing volume will dictate the maximum model size allowed and the number of pieces you can print in one go; the bigger, the better. The resolution is mainly associated with the quality of printing; this one is tricky because manufacturers advertise the same way as displays (2K, 4K ... 12K), but

I highly recommend it. Recently, I inaugurated my printer with them, and I could print on the first try (the models come pre-supported); the models I have also include a PDF file for the decals. You need a 3D printer, but these days, there are several budget options if you want to get one, or it isn't rare to find a printing service locally. They recently published my models on their Facebook page; both are built using only what is included in the files without ad-ons or modifications.

Great news, hopefully, Kinetic's equivalents will follow.