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About cruiz

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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  1. Thank you, Bounce, AFM, for your encouraging words; I'm glad you find this build worth of interest. The cowling and its flaps got a wash to accentuate the details using a dark blue panel line wash. The flaps received some weathering using Oilbrushers from AMMO, a mix of browns and reds to simulate rust and grease in the actuators, and also brown and gray to simulate oil and dirt on the flaps itself, making an emphasis on the flaps at the bottom, where I think gravity would accumulate most of the grime; the effect is more subtle in the picture. The wells got
  2. Even if I've not bought from them in a long time, it's sad they are gone; before the internet was a thing, Squadron was my source for kits and supplies that were too expensive or impossible to find in my country. I remember making a copy of the insert in FSM, filling it carefully in that tiny space, and place my first order by mail; I've had to borrow a credit card from my dad's friend (in those times, international credit cards were uncommon) it took a month and a half for the letter to arrive and the same time for the package to return. Now, before buying a kit alrea
  3. Hello all For the white color of the interior, instead of a pure insignia white, I went for a 1:1 mix of insignia white and white (an ivory white kind of) from Vallejo. Here is the interior of cowling flaps painted; the springs at the base of the actuators are not defined on the Vector's kit, so they were simulated with steel color paint. The pulleys are also detailed with this color; the cable is painted dark aluminum. Here it is after a coat of Future, ready for washes and weathering. The wheel wells are painted on the same white mix; after removi
  4. I feel your pain; it happens all the time; here are some tips that worked for me. Put a piece of masking tape on small parts before cutting or sand them; this way, they fly less from tweezers and find them easier. Also, don't use tweezers to position small parts; use a toothpick with a drop of dried masking fluid in the tip instead. For plastic parts, I drill a hole where the part will be attached and insert and glue the tip of the leftovers of stretched sprue for easier handling. Keep my desk and the area underneath and around as clean as possible and a han
  5. Hello all, quick update. In preparation to attach the engine, the interior of the cowling will be painted; I read somewhere that versions F4U-1 and F4U-1A have the interior painted the same color that the underside of the camo; in this case is white and will be using the same color for the interior of the cooling flaps. Before the white, the parts are painted with "Dark Aluminum" from Vallejo, in case I have some accidental chipping, but I don't plan to do it on purpose. On this other picture are the exhaust tubes painted in "Exhaust Manifold" f
  6. Never glue a part that I need to keep in place by applying pressure with my hands while the glue dries...... sometimes I broke it and always pay the price.
  7. Hello all, quick update. While waiting for the new canopy, I move on to other parts of the build; here is the tail section's work. To fill the voids in it, I decided to try Tamiya's epoxy putty; this is the first time I'm using it, and it seems to me that contrary to regular putty, the epoxy one tends to expand a little instead of shrink. If so, this is a good thing. At the tip and the base, you can see a pair of plastic plugs; while working on the model, it is common for me to damage the edges, and the best way to repair them is to replace them, along wit
  8. Hello Chukw, while in editing mode, I can insert the images as you said (without HTML tags), and the images do show correctly; the problem is when I submit the post, it generates an internal server error. I also tried with the option "Insert image from URL" with the same result. I've tried with different browsers, clearing the cache, and restarting the router to no effect; maybe is a problem with my computer's firewall or antivirus because the browser shows a problem with the certificate (NET::ERR_CERT_COMMON_NAME_INVALID). Thank you for your help and your kind words.
  9. Thank you, Steve; I was able to order a vacuform replacement, let's hope it arrives soon and fit on the model.
  10. Sorry about the images, but somehow the forum doesn't accept them anymore.
  11. Small update and a setback. While making a new armored glass, I found it difficult to place between the windshield and the gunsight, I knew the latter is misplaced to the front, but I believe there would be enough room. After many tests, I found the problem was the windshield's thickness; the Tamiya part is thicker at the center mid-height, and that leaves little room for the armored glass. The solution was to scrape the plastic on the inside; doing this with a straight blade made evident the uneven thickness at the center; here is a picture of the part afte
  12. Agree; both have pros and cons; fortunately, each person can get what they like the most. The most advantageous thing, I believe, for digital books related to our hobby is availability, or at least it will be in the future if enough of us got into it; I invite people to give it a try and judge by themselves. Hopefully, more publishers could get on board in the future if they see a trend; the kind of Reid Air, Valiant Wings, Kagero, to name a few. Maybe one day, when we start that kit, we can get the books we need for references and, if the printed version is not availa
  13. That's the one I'd waited for five years; first placed an order in 2013 but days later received a refund because they were sold out; I kept checking the site regularly, finally, in 2018, I could get one; they sold out almost immediately; keep checking often and good luck.
  14. You will need patience; I waited five years to get one of their sets; during that time, website updates were almost none; patience (and compulsive behavior to check their site often).
  15. Wow, another superb build from you; glad to see you back at the bench.
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