Marcel111 Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 John, glad to see your making progress, thx for sharing. Your work on the wheel wells looks almost too nice t be painted Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Clark Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Not been on here for a while, so its always good to catch up to see progress on this John! Been tinkering with the Trumpeter F6 - attempting to correct a few of the more noticeable errors - using Frank's Echelon drawings as a base! Particularly grateful for the details on the Pilot Access ladder - I have the Flightpath set too!!!! Great stuff John - keep up the good work!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Youngtiger1 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 John, every time I visit your thread I get blown away. The level of detail you put into these kits is amazing. I still am in an awe from your F-18A Adversary build. I have the whole thread saved as a reference and now this... 22 pages. I guess, I better start saving it on a cd...lol Well, keep up the good work my friend. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Thanks one and all for your long standing interest. Hi Mike, Marcel, Dave and David thanks for taking the time. I've got to tell you, every addition to this edition is .....Mark Hi Mark, thanks I try to keep it interesting! You have got to be retired to put that much time and effort into this project.Al Hi Al, I think it is more defined by the fact that I have been on it 2.25 yrs!!!! maybe you should start helping out Trumpeter with masters for new projects Tim Heh, Tim looks like things might be moving in thre right direction if the Jaguar is anything to go by. Long time lurker on ARC (for many years actually) Hi Bryan. Thanks, nice to know I had some influence in making an ARC convert out of a lurker. attempting to correct a few of the more noticeable errors - using Frank's Echelon drawings as a base! Hi Bill. Is the 6 an improvement on the F.1/F.3, or basically the same problems? Regards John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 (edited) Hi all, thanks for the continued interest. Finally the big day arrived with MG bays and leg components complete, the wings are fitted. Certainly a lot easier with all the manipulation required just to handle a wing, rather than the whole model. Normally, I prefer to leave the gear off until after model painting, but with these long legs and components/details that have to be applied, I am opting to do this now (and pay penalty for masking), rather than handling/manipulating painted model and risk damaging prone detail on fuselage. #1 My preferred method for painting metal (resin) tyres is slightly different from the one I read about some years ago. First, use Tamiya tape instead of masking tape, being thinner. Second, use a shaped toothpick instead of a sharp pencil; doesn’t tear the tape as a sharp pencil can do. Cut around/inside depressed line with new SM 10A blade. After removing the excess tape, re-use the toothpick to press down/shape cut tape at circumferential edge. Depending on the quality of casting, it may be necessary to touch up tyre/wheel hub edge, using thinned paint and fine brush. #2 Used silver decal strips to make the metal bands/clamps which secure lines/cables to gear legs etc. By first laying down a wider strip of black, then overlaying with narrower silver strip, it gives the effect of the metal strap with the black paint surround. Dark grey pastel application to ‘weather’. #3 Using a spade shaped toothpick, applied silver paint to inner disc brake surface which is slightly raised. The detail in the Echelon white metal wheel hub is very good. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/127a.jpg #1 As with the MGLs, used decal strips to simulate the metal bands/clamps which secure lines/cables to radius arm, except inboard, where I used a 0.5mm strip of Tamiya tape, painted silver, for strength – didn’t want cable parting from arm. #2 The mount/hinge points serve as useful places to hold items for painting. #3 By very careful/light use of a SM No10 blade simulated wear & tear to stencils. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/128a.jpg In view of the age of the aircraft and the wheel bays tending to be quite dirty, I have attempted to produce this effect by using the “Simulating Wear and Tear in Cockpits†technique and pastels application. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/129a.jpg So, now onto actually fitting all these painted components (not doors) into bays, should be fun. Speed is picking up, I think, and I am not pedalling!! BFN John Edited February 16, 2021 by John Wolstenholme c Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Absolutly amazing!! Some great ideas that i will be looking at closely! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Clark Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 (edited) Hi Bill. Is the 6 an improvement on the F.1/F.3, or basically the same problems? I haven't seen the F1/F3, though I understand that it has the same basic problems. Comparing the Exhelon kit against the Trumpeter kit shows how poor the latter kit is. There are some pic's of progress on Britmodeller and Large Scale Planes. Basically I've had to lengthen the fuselage by 5mm, remove the belly tank and replace it with approx 5mm in depth removed, reprofile the nose area and intake ring, broaden the fin........ I may have a crack at the F1/3 eventually, but may well try to finish off my Echelon F6 first - I have another in the stash as well!! What markings are you doing yours in? EDIT: Just spent a very enjoyable hour or so reading through this thread, so now know the id of your F6. Good choice! The Dark Sea Grey scheme is very attractive on the Lightning!! Edited November 28, 2009 by Bill Clark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Hello John, What a delightful update. The main gear bays and gear legs look splendid. A couple of touches are inspired. The bands on the gear legs and worn stencils, superb! All of the time and extra effort that you are putting into this build is well worth it. The wheel bay plumbing adds a great deal of depth to those areas and looks great with the weathering technique that you've used. Keep plugging away, the end is ever nearer :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Timvkampen Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 John, wonderful technique for your painting method. I'm suring putting this down in my moleskine tips book! And as you show it pays off to work in stages on a project. It's what I've been doing and helps to stay focussed on the result of the particular stage. My weekend started well reading this! Thanks. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) Hi Guy and David, appreciate you dropping by. Don’t want anybody to ruin their model and no one seems to ask any questions! Things to bear in mind when scraping the decals are: decals need to be down tight having been treated with Micro Sol, or similar, otherwise you may remove chunks; use new blade (curved) out of holder so you don’t apply to much pressure; scrape in one direction, not back and forth; use head magnifier so you can see as soon as something starts to happen. Gear legs, radius arms and jacks fitted and ‘plumbed-in’. Lines running up leg painted separately, as lower photo, then fitted. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/130a.jpg http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/131a.jpg Hi Tim. After all this time just couldn’t resist hanging/placing as much as I could on model to see what it’s going to look like. This made my week, month, and perhaps year! Yeah, pretty uneventful year. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Miscellaneous/4a.jpg Overall painting is still a way off, there is still quite a bit of detail to make/add: nose gear door/link rods, UHF/VHF and IFF antennae, dorsal strobe, under wing and aft lights, fuel vent/dumps (3No), drains, gun trough diffusers, windscreen and missing instruments to arch ……. Also, thinking of revisiting the owts – these were tackled early on and I am not totally happy with them now after the techniques gained during this build. Q. How do you make a 6-7ft long pitot cover from material when you are not into micro sewing? A. Don’t know! BFN John Edited February 16, 2021 by John Wolstenholme c Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Absolutely fantastic, John! How about using rubber from a rubber baloon...cut it into shape, roll it over the pitot tube and heat it, cut away excess ... I`ve never tried it myself but the theory is sound Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Timvkampen Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) Hi John, Well I fully appreciate your thought on putting as much on as possible to see the overall result!!! I did this with the pilot figures..and it gives you a good feeling when it's been taking so long to reach the end....but it is worth it. Keep it up! Tim ps. maybe the pitot tube cover can be made by using toilet paper and woodglue while using a similar tube shape? Edited December 1, 2009 by Timvkampen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 John, more outstanding work on the landing gear! I also appreciate you putting it all together, how can one resist it will be an awesome Lightning! Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
janman Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Amazing work on those gear wells! So very realistic looking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Besides watching an amazing build, I learn something new almost every post. Thanks for the detailed pics John! I now know how to handle gear wire painting a lot better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted December 20, 2009 Author Share Posted December 20, 2009 (edited) Hi Marcel and Janman, thanks for being there. Hi Chuck, remember the only pressure comes from yourself Hey Aigore, thanks for the festive idea for the pitot head cover . Not sure how that would work in theory, let alone practice! Tim, think the tissue/wood glue might produce a slightly lumpy effect. Appreciate you taking the time to add your input, it set me off in a direction where I think I may have come up with a (neat) solution – to follow, first go didn’t work! The gun trough baffles had me baffled for some time, but eventually a solution came to me. The F/Path PE parts are best used for detailing the bin. #1 Gun trough baffles. The Flightpath PE parts are too big and unrealistic in shape. Cut ‘washers’ from 0.25mm card using the Waldron set. The aim is to get a circular tunnel of baffle and trough when viewed from the front i.e. front baffle is virtually a circle, with very little trough, whilst the end baffle is a small ARC fitted over the deep trough. By drawing a profile of the tube used for the trough versus the inner dia. of the washer, I measured the reduction in baffle sizes needed! Additional detailing to sides from 5 thou card, using PVC cleaner as adhesive, rather than solvent weld which just melts it! Everything locked in place with thin CA. #2 Fuel dump/vents from scrap resin and 5 thou card. First formed shape, then partly hollowed-out section using drill in pin vice, first drilling and then as a rat tail file. When painted black it will not be seen that the section is not completely hollow. There are 3 No. – under fwd ventral pack, fuselage port and std near wing trailing edge, port being more forward. Adding a ‘tail’ allows accurate positioning; you then only have to worry about orientation. #3 Fairings are fitted to stub pylons when missiles are not carried. These allow the opportunity to display the model from ‘clean’ to fully loaded configuration. #4 Drains from Cu wire and 5 thou card. I set the wire in the 5 thou card shaped pieces with CA, then drilled slightly larger holes in the fuselage (to accept wire/CA surround) which would then be covered by the 5 thou mounting plate. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/132a.jpg As an aside to spending hours making a few tiny bits decided to paint the ventral pack. Despite lots of filling/sanding/CA application/sanding, application of primer showed still had some areas of seam which need further treatment, prior to application of High Speed Silver. Then the silver showed some persisting minor flaws, so you know what. Now masking ventral pack as there are different colour ‘patches’ on the real thing. It certainly beats spending hours making very small parts. I see I am missing a mirror for the jet jockey to check out the hairstyle! BFN John Edited February 16, 2021 by John Wolstenholme c Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kasatka Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I have just finished reading all 30 pages.. I am speechless! I have learnt a lot from this build, John! Thank you! Cheers Sergey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marcel111 Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 John, really inspirational work (as usual). I like the way you did the blast supressors, I tried to do something similar to a Mirage III build a while ago but your result is far superior. Cheers, Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
karl h Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 this is one of my all time favorite threads, your work is exceptional, always a pleasure to watch! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpwatson Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Wow, Amazing as usual!!! Great work man. Love this build! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richter111 Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 Outstanding detail, and attention to perfect construction. amazing! Ric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Timvkampen Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 I love the tinkering with the small parts. In the end makes it all worth while...just compare this to the Trumpeter kit...makes me think how much work we'd have to put in that ;-) Best and Merry Christmas, Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Lovely work John. I wondered how to replicate the doughnuts around the gun port and now I know When someone shows the way, it is simple. The end result is very convincing and looks exactly like the photos I took of a real Lightning not so long ago. Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Wolstenholme Posted December 26, 2009 Author Share Posted December 26, 2009 (edited) I have just finished reading all 30 pages.. I am speechless!Sergey That’s probably because it induced sleep. How do I know? You’ve had a nightmare, it just seems to be 30 pages long Many thanks for your interest/comments Sergey. Hi Marcel, so that’s what they are called – good to know. Thanks Karl, David, Ric, Tim and Guy for your continued support. I believe something happened yesterday, but I missed it! Happy New Year. So, got all the ventral bits sorted, just need to get the dorsal bits done! #1 TACAN aerial from scrap resin; it is not perpendicular to fuselage and the adaptor mount sets the aerial vertical. #2 NGB completed with additional details including: [a] gear lock which is a prominent chunk of metal; pre-drilled to take RBF flag, ‘springs’, part of gear doors mechanism. These were made by winding 40g Cu wire around suitably sized steel wire. #3 Nose leg door with PE and scratched details. Link rods from 0.7mm plastic rod drilled for wire. #4 IFF aerials (from F/Path set) set on 5 thou card plates thinned further after fitting to fuselage; there are three in total. #5 Pitot tube cover is fabric with rubber forward section. To simulate this I used plastic tubing that just fitted the s/steel pitot tube, but the problem is the wall thickness. First, I reamed out the plastic tubing with a drill/pin vice from each end to give a loose fit to partly reduce the wall thickness. Then with the spare length of s/steel tube inside, I sanded the outside with constant rotating, so reducing the wall thickness again, probably to ~ 5 thou. Whilst you can see the wall thickness at the ends you don’t know what it is in between. If you thin the tube too much it then splits when you do the next step. With the now thinned plastic tubing still on the s/steel tubing I applied solvent weld in short sections, all round. The tubing becomes translucent and I then gently pushed/twisted the softened tubing to make creases etc. When set repeat with next section. A strip of 5 thou card makes the seam, to which were attached the RBF flags. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Lightning/133a.jpg Ventral gun/fuel pack painted, looking all pristine and totally wrong. http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/jwolst/Miscellaneous/5a.jpg Did hope to have this finished by year end, but clearly……. See you in the New Year, have a good one. BFN John Edited February 16, 2021 by John Wolstenholme c Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted December 26, 2009 Share Posted December 26, 2009 Oh but what a nice way to start the new year by finishing that baby! Fantastic work, John! Happy New Year! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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