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TAMIYA 1/32 F-16DJ Block 52


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Dear modellers, all the best for 2012.

Small update today with the exhaust ready to be assembled to the fuselage. As you can mention, the joint is not perfect. After that,I will be able to assemble the spine extended base.

It took some work to remove to joint. When done, I sprayed first acylic base before spraying Alclad Pale burnt metal. Then, using Maskol I sprayed Tamiya Smoke diluted at 80%. To finish, I applied some weathering with Pastels and graphyte powder. Effects are quite light because that aircraft is in its early years.

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See you soon

Eric

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Great build she is going to be a stunner when complete. Looking at your top picture of the exhaust...is that chipped paint?

Keep up the great work.

Cheers & Semper Fi

Jason

Hi Jason,

Thanks a lot; On the top picture, the objective is to have different metallic aspects by using the chipped paint method with the Maskol; The Macro mode of the camera is increasing this chipped effet which has less contrast.

Eric

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Well as others have said this is a stunning, jaw-dropping build with crisp detailing and the result of superb craftsmanship! :worship::worship::thumbsup:

As i see you assemble all the cabling and super detailing after you've finished with painting and I would like to ask a some questions on the whole procedure.

The cabling appears to have sharp bending and almost no randomness. I mean you achieve a bend and then a straight line then a bend again etc., giving it a most realistic appearance.

>Do you bend the cables before you attach them on the model or do you attach an edge first and then start bending giving it the appropriate shape?

>Do you usually group details together or attach them one at a time?

>Also since you have painted the whole thing how do you eliminate any glue marks?

>Do you use cyanocrylate or epoxy glue?

Generally I'd love to hear what kind of method you follow to get this result.

Keep up the awesome work!

Thanks!

Andreas

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Well as others have said this is a stunning, jaw-dropping build with crisp detailing and the result of superb craftsmanship! :worship::worship::thumbsup:

As i see you assemble all the cabling and super detailing after you've finished with painting and I would like to ask a some questions on the whole procedure.

The cabling appears to have sharp bending and almost no randomness. I mean you achieve a bend and then a straight line then a bend again etc., giving it a most realistic appearance.

>Do you bend the cables before you attach them on the model or do you attach an edge first and then start bending giving it the appropriate shape?

>Do you usually group details together or attach them one at a time?

>Also since you have painted the whole thing how do you eliminate any glue marks?

>Do you use cyanocrylate or epoxy glue?

Generally I'd love to hear what kind of method you follow to get this result.

Keep up the awesome work!

Thanks!

Andreas

Dear Andreas and modellers,

Sorry to be late to answer you quiery. I prefered to show pictures than writting comments so far not to make this thread too heavy. So, I will continue that way but dear friends, feel free to ask me. I absolutely not have secrets, and I would be very pleased to share my methods any time you wish. It is one of the objectives of a forum.

1- Yes, as far as possible , for wires from 0.3 to 2mm, I prefer to pre-bend them before attaching them. But sometimes small adjustments are done after one edge is attached. For the electric wirering, I use elastic string that I paint before with permanent black pencil.The paint cracks when you stretch it. It is easier to stick because it is very strong once attached with CA. Then I'am able to pass it around the different accessories.

2- Usually I attach each component one at a time. The most important is to diffine the logic way to attach the different parts. It is to avoid to face the impossibility afterwards, to set an item because of lack of space. As you can see all along this thread, the sequence of the pictures shows the process. Before starting any plumbing, I attach all what I call the main components (eg: Accumulators , filters for an Hyd Sys). Then, you "just" have to join each component by starting from bottom to top. Just to avoid surprises as I told you before.

3- I do not eliminate glue mark. (?) In fact, If you paint the compartment before and you attach your already painted wire, you do not see the glue mark thanks to the glue transparency. On the other hand, if you attached all the items AND you paint the overall whell well after --> this time the paint will be on the glue and you'll have a plain mark. But most of the time, I use a thin pointer to put a minimum of CA gel. If I need a stronger sticking, I put a small quantity of ultra liquid CA after.

4- I use only CA gel or ultra liquid CA. I use generally epoxy glue only for cristal parts.

Well,dear all, I hope I've been clear enough, I remain at your disposal for any further informations.

Happy modelling

Eric

Edited by Eric F
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Hi Eric, your work is just mind blowing, which has been stated more than once. After reading all the post, I can only add what has already been stated. Phenomenal!!!!!

Tonal B)

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After few days break, I work again on this long project. I started to make the speed brakes. The aft part of the fuselage is attached now. It requires some adjustment and puty especially on upper part.

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Eric

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I'm back again. I'd been busy these two past weeks with my job. I started again working on the speed brakes with the fairings. The Eduard photo-etched parts are really nice. Forming them is not a big deal if you think about heating each part over a flame. It makes it smoother to be bended afterwards.

The fairing on the alf lower speed brake is not done yet. The jack and its mechanism will be done at the end of the built when the speed brakes are attached to the fuselage. It's to make sure to have the goode opening angle.

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Still having some minor work on, before attaching the parachute housing and the rudder to the fuselage.

Thanks for looking in and see you soon

Eric

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The para housing is attached to the fuselage. Just a dry check with the elevators and the speed brakes to be in good spirits for the rest of the built. We have now to fill the gaps between the parachute housing and the dorsal spine. Then we will attach the rudder and we will start to feel all the different challenges of the built behind us.

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Eric

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  • 3 weeks later...

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