To Prime or Not to Prime, That is the Question

[balls47]

Hi All. I do almost exclusively 1/48 scale fighters, with a 1/72 big airplane now and then. Obviously, I prime all of my resin models and prime models before using Alclad NMF. What is the general consensus on overall priming. I have been priming more and more models and working them down with 0000 steel wool and then cleaning the model down real well to get rid of the dust, steel wool, etc. I would like to know if you guys prime all of your models, some, none, etc. Any response would be appreciated. I use Mr. Surfacer on occasion, but usually use Plasti-Cote Spot Fill and Primer out of the can. It's relatively inexpensive, comes in a flat gray, and works down real nice. Thanks in advance.

[PNW_Modeler]

PRIME!!!!!!

I prime the whole model, nose to tail. The obvious exception being the clear parts.

Tamiya Surface Primer is just about the best stuff ten bucks can buy...

[Chuck1945]

personally, I dont bother to prime other than occasionally using using the first camo color to check joins and then repair if necessary and if a light color is needed as an undercoat for yellow or red.

I use PollyScale, Tamiya, and Gunze Aqueous paints and occasionally Xtracrylix.

[Shawn C.]

Setting up and then cleaning the airbrush is such a huge PITA that I don't prime anything with it. I do a lot of spot priming to check for seams, etc. but I use Tamiya spray can primer. Good stuff. I don't even clean my models prior to airbrushing. I just dust them off and fire up the evil airbrush.

[Old Blind Dog]

On any model where you have to do a lot of filling and sanding, priming is a VERY good idea as it shows you irregularities in the surface that may need attention before you go on to the main colors. It can also be quite helpful if you're painting the model a lighter color, or using certain types of acrylic paint that need something to "grip" for better adhesion--such as Model Master Acryl, which is very difficult to mask over without some sort of primer coat applied first.

This being said, I prime about 40 per cent of my models.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

[toadwbg]

On any model where you have to do a lot of filling and sanding, priming is a VERY good idea as it shows you irregularities in the surface that may need attention before you go on to the main colors. It can also be quite helpful if you're painting the model a lighter color, or using certain types of acrylic paint that need something to "grip" for better adhesion--such as Model Master Acryl, which is very difficult to mask over without some sort of primer coat applied first.

This being said, I prime about 40 per cent of my models.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

yup, what that dog said.

[dkobayashi]

I sometimes prime to check seams, and I also prime after rescribing- I'm kind of a hack and I find it evens out some of the canyons I tend to carve. Also, I always prime if the plastic is in a color that would affect the paint over it (IE, white on black plastic).

[richter111]

Optimus says

PRIME!!!!!

[Fishwelding]

Depends on the finish. My acrylic finishes tend to be heavier than enamels, and so I generally do not prime them. For enamels, if the kit really clicked together well with little or no filler or heavy sanding, and if the subsequent finish will likely be a lot of darker colors, then I might skip it. For gloss finishes, and particularly on models which took a bit of work to get together, I've started to prime. A good example are Revell's (Monogram's) ADC interceptor kits, the F-101, F-102 and F-106. Bigger models, they are from a generation where people weren't scared away by a tube of putty, and in USAF service will likely wear a light gray finish. Good candidates for a coat of tough, uniform-coated primer.

[Jim S]

FWIW,

I spray a lot of Dupli-Color Truck and Van&Suv primer. It is readily available at the Auto Parts store, dries fast, is sandable, and most importantly for me has a fine pigment. It is also neutral grey in color. I mainly use spray cans but it is also available in a 1 quart can (lifetime supply).

HTH,

Jim S

Edited June 6, 2010 by Jim S

[Antonov]

So what is the best primer to use under acrylics (mostly MM and Polly S)?

[model_madness]

edited:

Mr Surfacer 500 1000/1200 if you cant get hold of a cheap,decent automotive primer.

500 is too rough for priming i;d say.

Edited June 7, 2010 by model_madness

[Big Kev]

I used to wonder about this priming thing myself, but after having given it a go a few years back, I now prime just about everything. It has been the single biggest factor in my improved finishes since then. I paint mostly with acrylics, and tend to build a lot of old kits that need a lot of work, so using a primer is important from the point of view of checking the quality of your construction, and giving cool acrylics something to bond to. It has also made me much more critical of my finishes, and it's become a vital step in the modelling process for me now.

Kev

[T-bone]

So what is the best primer to use under acrylics (mostly MM and Polly S)?

I don't always prime, but when I do,

I prefer Tamiya fine surface primer

or Mr. Surfacer 1200

Both in the rattle can. No fuss and both work great under acrylics.

Keep priming my friends!

[GoBlue96]

I don't always prime, but when I do,

I prefer Tamiya fine surface primer

or Mr. Surfacer 1200

Both in the rattle can. No fuss and both work great under acrylics.

Keep priming my friends!

LOL!!

[Skii]

Always, no exceptions.

[G_Marcat_Italy]

I'm doing only Whatifs and the use of primer is mandatory.

I did tests with some products, Tamiya Gray and White Primers are good products but for a good control on the result I prefer to spend more time using Gunze's MR SURFACER 1000 sprayed with the airbrush, previously diluted with Tamiya Laquer Thinner or with common (no brand) laquer thinner.

[Old Blind Dog]

So what is the best primer to use under acrylics (mostly MM and Polly S)?

Another vote for Tamiya Fine White (or Gray) Surface Primer in the rattle can. I've found nothing better for priming under Polly Scale or MM Acryl.

Also, I would amplify what was said earlier about the NECESSITY of priming over colored plastics. Older kits came in a wide range of colors from bright red, silver, and sea blue to flourscent yellow and cat-diarhea orange; unless you want that to show through, you've got to prime!

cheers

Old Blind Dog

[I love airbrushing]

Nah, MM RLM 76 oughta do the job for all your Luftwaffe builds.

[Viperguy]

After screwing up a finish on my latest model car by skipping the priming process, I'll nver skip the priming again.

[RiderFan]

I use Mr Surfacer for general white paint (it's the best covering white I've ever found!) so I guess I prime by default if the model is mostly white. But as a general rule, I find that priming just clogs up any details I've spent time trying to build. 99.5% of the time I paint with acrylics so maybe that has something to do with it.

[Old Blind Dog]

I use Mr Surfacer for general white paint (it's the best covering white I've ever found!) so I guess I prime by default if the model is mostly white. But as a general rule, I find that priming just clogs up any details I've spent time trying to build. 99.5% of the time I paint with acrylics so maybe that has something to do with it.

ANY paint that "clogs up details" is too thick--it doesn't matter what type. I've used Polly Scale Underside Gray as a primer and it works quite well. You only need to ghost it on in a couple light coats, which won't obscure anything, but will show you where the bad seams and other surface flaws are. Still, as I said, nothing beats the Tamiya Fine White or Gray Surface Primer, regardless of what you put on top of it.

cheers

Old Blind Dog

Edited June 9, 2010 by Old Blind Dog

[moeggo]

I never bother in the past, But I fine that I get a better finish when I do... So, I have been converted and I always now!

I use Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1200 thinned down through my Tamiya HGIII Airbrush... We use the Tamiya Primer at work and I hate the stuff! I am always getting runs! (NOT THE RUNS)

[robw_uk]

having found a number of sanding & filling issues on one of my recent builds I am considering priming. On the Hellcat I have white lower surfaces so was consideirng undercoating/priming in silver. will this work for the upper blues as well (going for the tri-tone USN scheme)? I am using Humbrol Enamels (only as that is what I used in the past) but may switch to acrylics as I progress.....

[Huey Gunner]

I prime everything. And my poisen of choice is Tamiya Surface Primer in the rattle can. Both gray and white. I keep about 10-12 cans in the drawer just in case they come up with some silly regulation that would restrict importation.